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Relais & Châteaux es una familia de hoteleros y Grands Chefs de todo el mundo que comparten una pasión y un compromiso personal para garantizar a sus huéspedes

- Passion fruit, mango, seeds and herbs vanilla

 

Here we had sugar dipped mixed fruit, with gelatinégels. These were red fruits (that were non-seasonal), a scoop of vanilla ice cream hiding beneath a shoulder of red gel, herbs and both basil and passion fruit seeds.

 

A transition to the parade of sweets ahead.

- acid apple, black and white chocolate

 

We were instructed to destroy this before eating. Unfortunately I was unable to participate (due to my cocoa allergy) but I did get the chance to photograph Charlotte's). Gorgeous.

 

I don't know if there's a certain look, the gentle refinement, or delicate subtleties found when a female chef takes the helm, but I felt it in many of our dishes. They all seemed to carry a woman's touch, or grace within. The last thing I want to do is generalize, but the appearance of flowers, the used of colours, the attention to detail (i.e. menu cards) that not only dots every i and crosses every t, all seem to point out that these are meticulous details that women just inherently care about. Its not over the top, or screams look at me, but it's just like the little bit of lipstick and a straightening of the skirt before heading out. The dishes at Sant Pau look look that polished. I found that... refreshing.

- melanosporum truffle, Joselito ham, "quality 0" egg yolk

 

Amazing. Crisped airy triangle of bread (not quite toast, spongier but lightly grilled) with a pocket that hold a raw egg yolk, then capped with a tiny toast round hat. The yolk explodes into the Iberico ham laced pocket and broth, and cheese espuma below. As if that combination of unctuous, sweet-savoury umami flavours weren't enough, a shower of fine truffle shavings add further depth and aroma to the already glorious dish.

 

Excellent. My favourite of the meal. Incredible.

Coca de hojaldre y cabello de angel

- Puff pastry cake and sweet of the pumpkin

 

Palito de regaliz y sidral

- Liquorice and sherbet stick

 

Love that there were pastry sticks in our mignardise and dessert service. I was such a happy girl. Another discovery during this trip was how delicious the Spanish tortas were. These were essentially stick forms of them. Personal confession: I love eating shapes. Finger friendly, pastry strips are so much fun (the way the fingers break in the mouth, the way you can greedily jam it into the mouth, etc.), so being in strip form made them even more delicious. :)

Andy Warhol plates. Quite stunning.

 

Actually, this is what I probably meant by there being a woman's touch at Sant Pau (and don't be mistaken, this is removing the obvious fact that pretty much the whole house was run by incredibly talented women, with top notch white gloved skills, yet gentle care): that there is no fear to break away from the usual coolness or starkness in most restaurants (from decor, to dishes) that are found typically in a non-female run establishment. It's not that only women embrace eclectic things, but perhaps there's a comfort to incorporate them into say, an outfit (statement pieces anyone) or in this case, within the line up of courses on a beautifully crafted tasting menu.

 

I appreciated that. It was fresh and so European. I really don't know how else to put it more aptly, when everything here in Canada is on white plates, slate tiles or slabs of wood, maybe the odd glass.

 

I know I'm not the only one out there who can see this. This is also not your mother's passed down fine china. There a fresh vibrancy that just energizes the table. Which was good because what was to parade in front of us next would require that (if one is not too inebriated to enjoy them... more on that later. Maybe.)

  

Crafted by a local artisan who bakes this "natural" bread (pargen dona(?)) only for Sant Pau. Each table had their own loaf of this beautiful beast. The bread even had it's own table!

 

The handsome golden crust shattered like the best suckling pig skin possible. It was a thing of dreams. Incredible.

 

I still dream about it.

 

I still crave it. I want to go back to Sant Pau *just* for this bread (all else is a bonus). It is that good.

 

This ended up being the best bread we had on the trip. The crust was sublime. I really wish I was able to pick up a loaf for home.

- acid apple, black and white chocolate

 

We were instructed to destroy this before eating. Unfortunately I was unable to participate (due to my cocoa allergy) but I did get the chance to photograph Charlotte's). Gorgeous.

 

I don't know if there's a certain look, the gentle refinement, or delicate subtleties found when a female chef takes the helm, but I felt it in many of our dishes. They all seemed to carry a woman's touch, or grace within. The last thing I want to do is generalize, but the appearance of flowers, the used of colours, the attention to detail (i.e. menu cards) that not only dots every i and crosses every t, all seem to point out that these are meticulous details that women just inherently care about. Its not over the top, or screams look at me, but it's just like the little bit of lipstick and a straightening of the skirt before heading out. The dishes at Sant Pau look look that polished. I found that... refreshing.

Coca de hojaldre y cabello de angel

- Puff pastry cake and sweet of the pumpkin

 

Palito de regaliz y sidral

- Liquorice and sherbet stick

 

Love that there were pastry sticks in our mignardise and dessert service. I was such a happy girl. Another discovery during this trip was how delicious the Spanish tortas were. These were essentially stick forms of them. Personal confession: I love eating shapes. Finger friendly, pastry strips are so much fun (the way the fingers break in the mouth, the way you can greedily jam it into the mouth, etc.), so being in strip form made them even more delicious. :)

Nicely presented selection of five cheeses and garnishes. We wer told to consume them from right to left.

 

Casa Mateu Tou, winter tomato ravioli, parsley and olives

- Catalonia cheese. It was very much like cottony cottage cheese.

 

Ibores, banana preserve

- a Spanish cheese that's semi-firm and palate friendly (that was as helpful as saying it looks and tasted like cheese. Sadly, that's what my notes say.)

 

Gorgonzola Dulce, Marsala marzipan

- cheese from Italy. This was a really great pairing (as admitted by a non-blue cheese fan).

 

Livarot, figs bread, dried peach and almonds

- From France.

 

Boulette d'Avesnes, black beer sponge cake

- From France.

 

Lovely presentation of fruit ice slices in raspberry, coconut and watermelon with fresh berries all wrapped up in a thick neutral gel (surrounding four sides of the cube).

 

More like a palate cleaners, but really thoughtful of the restaurant as my substitution for my pesky cocoa allergy. The result was not only light, refreshing, but greatly appreciated.

- herbs, mushrooms and vegetables bale

 

Pyrenees colt (yes, horse), served blue rare. Quite incredible, with super lean and supple (almost too supple), soft flesh. The mushroom-based sides were equally excellent.

The non-chocolate containing spread:

 

Bizcocho de rosas ecologicas

- Ecological roses sponge cake

 

Gelatina de frutos rojos

- Berries jelly

 

Gominola de vinagre rosado

- Rose wine jelly

 

Yuzu-yogurt mousse

 

Also additional tuilles, jellies and sorbets. Mignardise plate of dreams. :)

Lovely presentation of fruit ice slices in raspberry, coconut and watermelon with fresh berries all wrapped up in a thick neutral gel (surrounding four sides of the cube).

 

More like a palate cleaners, but really thoughtful of the restaurant as my substitution for my pesky cocoa allergy. The result was not only light, refreshing, but greatly appreciated.

- melanosporum truffle, Joselito ham, "quality 0" egg yolk

 

Amazing. Crisped airy triangle of bread (not quite toast, spongier but lightly grilled) with a pocket that hold a raw egg yolk, then capped with a tiny toast round hat. The yolk explodes into the Iberico ham laced pocket and broth, and cheese espuma below. As if that combination of unctuous, sweet-savoury umami flavours weren't enough, a shower of fine truffle shavings add further depth and aroma to the already glorious dish.

 

Excellent. My favourite of the meal. Incredible.

The spread:

 

Coca de hojaldre y cabello de angel

- Puff pastry cake and sweet of the pumpkin

 

Palito de regaliz y sidral

- Liquorice and sherbet stick

 

Bizcocho de rosas ecologicas

- Ecological roses sponge cake

 

Gelatina de frutos rojos

- Berries jelly

 

Gominola de vinagre rosado

- Rose wine jelly

 

Yuzu-yogurt mousse

 

Also additional tuilles, jellies and sorbets. Mignardise plate of dreams. :)

 

- with creamy artichokes, fried and chips

 

Loved the vertical height in this course. The nod to early spring included artichoke chips and charred artichoke hearts (which we were instructed to eat first) - the latter was a bit stringy and bitter. What might seem unpleasant was contrasted by the sweet, medium-rare prawn tails (which were hiding a vein of cooked artichoke hearts inside it!) - which were very nice.

The cocoa-containing edition:

 

Crumble con frambuesa

- Crumble with raspberry

 

Mini-helado de vainilla

- Vanilla mini-Ice cream (in chocolate)

 

Borracho de Tia Maria

- Liquored with Tia Maria pastry

 

Tourron crujiente de arroz y almendra

- Crunchy rice and almonds nougat

 

Chocolate blanco, wasabi y sesamo

- White chocolate, wasabi and sesame

  

Nicely presented selection of five cheeses and garnishes. We were told to consume them from right to left.

 

Casa Mateu Tou, winter tomato ravioli, parsley and olives

- Catalonia cheese. It was very much like cottony cottage cheese.

 

Ibores, banana preserve

- a Spanish cheese that's semi-firm and palate friendly (that was as helpful as saying it looks and tasted like cheese. Sadly, that's what my notes say.)

 

Gorgonzola Dulce, Marsala marzipan

- cheese from Italy. This was a really great pairing (as admitted by a non-blue cheese fan).

 

Livarot, figs bread, dried peach and almonds

- From France.

 

Boulette d'Avesnes, black beer sponge cake

- From France.

 

- Maresme peas and home made black sausage

 

Using the first peas of the season (incredibly tender, soft) with what tasted like a concentrated chicken consomme/bouillon (it was flecked with herbs). Beside the pretty floral and pearl onion garnishes, creamy and ever so slightly pasty (in a good way) blood sausage. Great unadulterated flavours. Really fantastic combo.

Nicely presented selection of five cheeses and garnishes. We were told to consume them from right to left.

 

Casa Mateu Tou, winter tomato ravioli, parsley and olives

- Catalonia cheese. It was very much like cottony cottage cheese.

 

Ibores, banana preserve

- a Spanish cheese that's semi-firm and palate friendly (that was as helpful as saying it looks and tasted like cheese. Sadly, that's what my notes say.)

 

Gorgonzola Dulce, Marsala marzipan

- cheese from Italy. This was a really great pairing (as admitted by a non-blue cheese fan).

 

Livarot, figs bread, dried peach and almonds

- From France.

 

Boulette d'Avesnes, black beer sponge cake

- From France.

 

Lovely tea set.

 

Surprising part was how reasonably priced the teas were (vs. ie US).

 

Infusio (€4)

- espigallis, endive, its skin and liver

 

Semi-firm and really like it's moniker (poor man's lobster) - actually the first time I encountered it's texture prepared much like the crispness of poached lobster. The lobster-like textured monkfish had a well seasonde and light crust that was served with skin and liver pieces that were like concentrated pops of monkfish essence.

 

I'm not a huge fan of monkfish, but did enjoy the textures in this course.

- spiced sponge cake, pear, cheese, radicchio, vinaigrette

Mild, like a palate cleaner. This was the last item we were told to eat in the micro menu.

The non-chocolate edition:

 

Bizcocho de rosas ecologicas

- Ecological roses sponge cake

 

Gelatina de frutos rojos

- Berries jelly

 

Gominola de vinagre rosado

- Rose wine jelly

 

Yuzu-yogurt mousse

 

Also additional tuilles, jellies and sorbets. Mignardise plate of dreams. :)

 

- Passion fruit, mango, seeds and herbs vanilla

 

Here we had sugar dipped mixed fruit, with gelatinégels. These were red fruits (that were non-seasonal), a scoop of vanilla ice cream hiding beneath a shoulder of red gel, herbs and both basil and passion fruit seeds.

 

A transition to the parade of sweets ahead.

Four small appetizers from the February Micro-Menu

 

Foie gras, piña y espinacas

- foie gras, pineapple, spinach

 

Cuscús, calamar, frutos secos, cilantro y almendra

- couscous, squid, dried nuts, coriander

 

Langostino, acelga, mayonesa de ajo y pimienta

- prawn, swiss chard, garlic and pepper mayonnaise

 

Coca especiada, pera, queso, achicoria y vinagreta

- spiced sponge cake, pear, cheese, radicchio, vinaigrette

 

- espigallis, endive, its skin and liver

 

Semi-firm and really like it's moniker (poor man's lobster) - actually the first time I encountered it's texture prepared much like the crispness of poached lobster. The lobster-like textured monkfish had a well seasonde and light crust that was served with skin and liver pieces that were like concentrated pops of monkfish essence.

 

I'm not a huge fan of monkfish, but did enjoy the textures in this course.

Casa Mateu Tou, winter tomato ravioli, parsley and olives

- Catalonia cheese. It was very much like cottony cottage cheese.

 

Ibores, banana preserve

- a Spanish cheese that's semi-firm and palate friendly (that was as helpful as saying it looks and tasted like cheese. Sadly, that's what my notes say.)

  

Llegat Manuel Llopis i Bofill

Hospital de Sant Joan Baptista - Vi de Taula

 

Paired with the Seat Salad course.

Malvasia de Sitges & Perafita

Llegat Manuel Llopis i Bofill

Hospital de Sant Joan Baptista - Vi de Taula

 

Paired with the Seat Salad course.

- with creamy artichokes, fried and chips

 

Loved the vertical height in this course. The nod to early spring included artichoke chips and charred artichoke hearts (which we were instructed to eat first) - the latter was a bit stringy and bitter. What might seem unpleasant was contrasted by the sweet, medium-rare prawn tails (which were hiding a vein of cooked artichoke hearts inside it!) - which were very nice.

- foie gras, pineapple, spinach

This was the third bite we were instructed to have on the micro menu. There was a thin jelly case (not quite encapsulation - or thicker) that contained foie mousse inside, which paired nicely with the medium-raw pineapple (firm texture) and spinach. It was a like a small explosion of flavour.* (*That was honestly what I wrote in my notes!)

Livarot, figs bread, dried peach and almonds

- From France.

 

Boulette d'Avesnes, black beer sponge cake

- From France.

- cod brandada, colored peppers, black olives

 

Lovely sweet and salty flavours here presented as a mosaic of gelled peppers and olives to a layer of smooth sal cod laced brandada. Tucked within the folds was a surprise: chunks of pine nuts (?) and olives (almost like moist prunes).

 

This was not only gorgeous but fabulous. It's also a house signature with good reason. Just look at it.

- prawn, swiss chard, garlic and pepper mayonnaise

Sweet, meaty, with all the other elements enhancing those flavours.

Crafted by a local artisan who bakes this "natural" bread (pargen dona(?)) only for Sant Pau. Each table had their own loaf of this beautiful beast. The bread even had it's own table. The handsome golden crust shattered like the best suckling pig skin possible. It was a thing of dreams. Incredible.

 

I still dream about it.

 

I still crave it. I want to go back to Sant Pau *just* for this bread (all else is bonus). It is that good.

 

This ended up being the best bread we had on the trip. The crust was sublime. I really wish I was able to pick up a loaf for home.

- cod brandada, colored peppers, black olives

 

Lovely sweet and salty flavours here presented as a mosaic of gelled peppers and olives to a layer of smooth sal cod laced brandada. Tucked within the folds was a surprise: chunks of pine nuts (?) and olives (almost like moist prunes).

 

This was not only gorgeous but fabulous. It's also a house signature with good reason. Just look at it.

- Maresme peas and home made black sausage

 

Using the first peas of the season (incredibly tender, soft) with what tasted like a concentrated chicken consomme/bouillon (it was flecked with herbs). Beside the pretty floral and pearl onion garnishes, creamy and ever so slightly pasty (in a good way) blood sausage. Great unadulterated flavours. Really fantastic combo.

Martín Faixó, 2007, D.O. Empordà

 

Paired with dessert #2: Chestnuts and Whiskey

 

(although I had a sorbet course instead due to chocolate allergy)

The table being prepared for the cheese spread that was to arrive. These were the flavours for February, and the accompanying roadmap/index of the cheeses and the contrasting flavours ahead.

  

- refreshing infusion

 

Fresh raspberry and vinegar infused juice is poured over a pineapple sorbet. it was a tasty way to cleanse the palate after we mixed the two components together before drinking the final cool concoction.

Joan d'Anguera, 3007, D.O. Montsant

 

Paired with my choice of the colt from the Pyrenees (vs. deer loin. Though who know me and my love for game, probably know that this was a tough decision. But colt. From the Pyrenees. It just sounds so good rolling off the tongue. Imagine it *on* the tongue).

- cod brandada, colored peppers, black olives

 

Lovely sweet and salty flavours here presented as a mosaic of gelled peppers and olives to a layer of smooth sal cod laced brandada. Tucked within the folds was a surprise: chunks of pine nuts (?) and olives (almost like moist prunes).

 

This was not only gorgeous but fabulous. It's also a house signature with good reason. Just look at it.

Loved the details that Sant Pau provided in their changing menu. Not only one for the tasting, but also for the flight of amuses, the cheeses, and even the dessert mignardise spread. Really incredible and beautiful sketches too.

 

Sant Pau

Carrer Nou 10, E-08395

Sant Pol de Mar (Catalunya), Spain

93-760-06-62

email: santpau@relaischateaux.com

www.ruscalleda.com

 

Executive Chef: Carme Ruscalleda

 

Michelin 3 stars

 

Menu Degustacio €146

Degustacio Vins €54

- couscous, squid, dried nuts, coriander

The first bite we were instructed to have. It was pedestrian and rather dry.

- herbs, mushrooms and vegetables bale

 

Pyrenees colt (yes, horse), served blue rare. Quite incredible, with super lean and supple (almost too supple), soft flesh. The mushroom-based sides were equally excellent.

- refreshing infusion

 

Fresh raspberry and vinegar infused juice is poured over a pineapple sorbet. it was a tasty way to cleanse the palate after we mixed the two components together before drinking the final cool concoction.

Ca n'Estrusch, 2007, D.O. Catalunya

 

To pair with Truffled Sandwich.

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