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Inconsistent flow rate - something is causing the filament to not feed properly. This can have many causes, temp too low, idler tension was too low, or mechanical/electrical problems with the filament feed system.
In this case, the immediately noticed problem was that the hobbed bolt teeth were filling up with plastic, so it would feed sometimes and not others. But the weird thing was that this only happened towards the middle to the end of large, simple layers where the head got up a good speed (due to acceleration) and therefore the flow rate was also high for a long time. The ROOT cause of this was that the temperature was set at 175 (for PLA) and while that's a good temp, when the flow rate got high enough, the core temperature in the hotend dropped too quickly and got too low before the thermistor and heater could respond. This caused a temporary jam and shaved bits off the filament and wedging them into the grooves, exacerbating the problem.
Most firmwares only check the thermistors every 5 seconds or so, so if the temp drop is rapid it can get pretty low before the heater come on.
Solved by increasing the temperature by 10 degrees to give more leeway on the temperature drop. If this is unworkable for some reason, the feed rate could also be reduced.
Printed with PLA @ 190C using Marlin on a Mendelmax. The left one has a layer height of 0.3mm and the right is 0.15mm. The 0.15mm layer height resulted in some roughness on the back, while the 0.3mm did not.
Two prints using Slic3r and Marlin. Blue Translucent PLA from Ultimachine at 190C. The left one has a layer thickness of 0.3mm and the one on the right is 0.15mm. It looks to me like some z-wobble is evident in both, but interestingly, it looks more pronounced with thinner layers.
First printed little stars.
See you on my blog at http://reprap.mecton.info
This acrylic frame Geeetech I3 3D printer is designed and manufactured by Shenzhen Getech Co., Ltd based on Reprap pursa I3, Geeetech I3 features simple assembly, easy debugging and more stable performance. The acrylic structure makes the printer less complex and easy to operate.
For more information, please kindly check at this link: www.geeetech.com/unassembledfull-acrylic-quality-high-pre...
Here is the very first objects printed with my new Repstrap, and that allowed me to make the biggest adjustments.
See you on my blog at reprap.mecton.info
Trying to print a pulley for the drawing machine.
A single tooth is less than 1mm thick.
Parts used - Rough List
- Frame - Jo Průša
- Rods - Matterfy
- Steppers - Ultimachine
- Rambo - Ultimachine
- Misc hardware / bearings - Ultimachine
- Printed parts: self-printed (Yellow PLA - Extruder is yellow ABS)
- Power suppy: Lulzbot
- Heated Bed Glass: Lulzbot
- Heated Build Platform: eBay - rp_one labs
- J-Head MKV: eBay - reprap_uk or something
- Fan: Ultimachine
- Belts: Lulzbot
- Stepper gears: eBay
Open hardware logo with Slic3r generated infill pattern (thats how objects inside looks when printed on RepRap) on my right forearm. Reminder for me not to be hypocrite after starting my own RepRap company. Reminder what got me where I am today!
Finally got this running sweetly. Three problems:
1. Loose drive sprockets. Fixed with allen key.
2. Wrong skeinforge profile. Fixed by copying them from the github repo and manually clearing out the .skeinforge folder and putting them in.
3. Wandering filament in the extruder drive - it kept on being squeezed out of the hobbed area on the drive bolt. Fixed by printing a special little shim to drop into the extruder chamber to keep the filament in place. Unsubtle, but it works. www.thingiverse.com/thing:14502
This print had several problems. I switched from a 0.5mm nozzle to a 0.25mm nozzle, the 0.25mm nozzle was much more difficult to calibrate. This weird hole/window problem was caused by several things, too low of a temperature, too few perimeter passes, and a imperfect calibrated extrusion. Things I did to fix it: increased temperature from 230 to 245. Increased perimeter passes from 1 to 2. Changed the extrusion multiplier from 1 to 1.05. It took two days to figure out all those changes, but now Yoda prints nearly perfect.
Two links of a cable chain. The half bridges looks awful, will probably try with solid bridges instead.
Left - no fan. Right - with fan. Conclusion: fan is essential for small/fast prints.
Pretty stars to hang on the Christmas tree !
See you on my blog at reprap.mecton.info
Pictures of i3 frames Prusa Research. Use of those pictures is for Prusa Research distributors or open source documentation purposes with attribution.
eMAKER Huxley RepRap 3D printer fully assembled, with filament spool loaded.
Image may be freely published with any article relating to eMAKER.