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Inconsistent flow rate - something is causing the filament to not feed properly. This can have many causes, temp too low, idler tension was too low, or mechanical/electrical problems with the filament feed system.

 

In this case, the immediately noticed problem was that the hobbed bolt teeth were filling up with plastic, so it would feed sometimes and not others. But the weird thing was that this only happened towards the middle to the end of large, simple layers where the head got up a good speed (due to acceleration) and therefore the flow rate was also high for a long time. The ROOT cause of this was that the temperature was set at 175 (for PLA) and while that's a good temp, when the flow rate got high enough, the core temperature in the hotend dropped too quickly and got too low before the thermistor and heater could respond. This caused a temporary jam and shaved bits off the filament and wedging them into the grooves, exacerbating the problem.

 

Most firmwares only check the thermistors every 5 seconds or so, so if the temp drop is rapid it can get pretty low before the heater come on.

 

Solved by increasing the temperature by 10 degrees to give more leeway on the temperature drop. If this is unworkable for some reason, the feed rate could also be reduced.

Printed with PLA @ 190C using Marlin on a Mendelmax. The left one has a layer height of 0.3mm and the right is 0.15mm. The 0.15mm layer height resulted in some roughness on the back, while the 0.3mm did not.

Two prints using Slic3r and Marlin. Blue Translucent PLA from Ultimachine at 190C. The left one has a layer thickness of 0.3mm and the one on the right is 0.15mm. It looks to me like some z-wobble is evident in both, but interestingly, it looks more pronounced with thinner layers.

An experiement in TopMod, stl file uploaded to Thingiverse.

 

www.thingiverse.com/thing:420

Impression 3D par Gnieark

Trying to print a pulley for the drawing machine.

 

A single tooth is less than 1mm thick.

First printed little stars.

See you on my blog at http://reprap.mecton.info

Here is the very first objects printed with my new Repstrap, and that allowed me to make the biggest adjustments.

See you on my blog at reprap.mecton.info

New extruder!

Automagically, Uploaded Via EyeFi

Parts used - Rough List

 

- Frame - Jo Průša

- Rods - Matterfy

- Steppers - Ultimachine

- Rambo - Ultimachine

- Misc hardware / bearings - Ultimachine

- Printed parts: self-printed (Yellow PLA - Extruder is yellow ABS)

- Power suppy: Lulzbot

- Heated Bed Glass: Lulzbot

- Heated Build Platform: eBay - rp_one labs

- J-Head MKV: eBay - reprap_uk or something

- Fan: Ultimachine

- Belts: Lulzbot

- Stepper gears: eBay

Does this look like a perfect fit?

Yes, ahoy it does.

Impression 3D par Gnieark

Filament goes in here...

From Lulzbot, for the Prusa Mendel.2 in progress. A beautiful gizmo, from a cool company.

www.lulzbot.com/

Open hardware logo with Slic3r generated infill pattern (thats how objects inside looks when printed on RepRap) on my right forearm. Reminder for me not to be hypocrite after starting my own RepRap company. Reminder what got me where I am today!

Homebuilt 3D printer is working well

Printed in Pla on my Reprap Prusa

Impression 3D par Gnieark

@ the "Wiener Selbsthilfegruppe für 3D-Druck" at MQ

reprap-wien.org

Finally got this running sweetly. Three problems:

1. Loose drive sprockets. Fixed with allen key.

2. Wrong skeinforge profile. Fixed by copying them from the github repo and manually clearing out the .skeinforge folder and putting them in.

3. Wandering filament in the extruder drive - it kept on being squeezed out of the hobbed area on the drive bolt. Fixed by printing a special little shim to drop into the extruder chamber to keep the filament in place. Unsubtle, but it works. www.thingiverse.com/thing:14502

after about 12 tries I finally was able to print a timing pulley with a 2mm pitch

Erik de Bruijn was working on his 3D printer today. He made a 3D heart!

Z axis start height is far too high - plastic is just falling out and landing on the surface instead of being APPLIED to the print bed.

 

Your nozzle should be the same distance over the print surface as the layer height. A fraction of a millimeter. Ideally the bead laid out by the nozzle should be squashed flat to a ratio of about 2:1 - not squished paper thin but not just a cylindrical tube lying there either - squished until it's about twice as wide as it is high.

X-axis almost done

I am building this RepRapPro. I am currently waiting for the back-ordered electronic kit to arrive.

Some photos of the assembly sequence for the MakerGear versions of the MakerBot components.

Design for a reprap-type pinch wheel plastruder for my machined Mendel.

This acrylic frame Geeetech I3 3D printer is designed and manufactured by Shenzhen Getech Co., Ltd based on Reprap pursa I3, Geeetech I3 features simple assembly, easy debugging and more stable performance. The acrylic structure makes the printer less complex and easy to operate.

For more information, please kindly check at this link: www.geeetech.com/unassembledfull-acrylic-quality-high-pre...

Imprimante 3D de Gnieark

www.thingiverse.com/thing:12146

 

On original Mendel: 0.4mm layer, hollow

probably not enough heat on the nozzle. Jammed either in the extruder or popped off the bowden tube mid print. 0.15 mm layers, slic3r 0.8.2 PLA from supply3dpla.com 30mm perimeter speed, 20sec per layer -> min. 10mm/s

 

(colors enhanced in photoshop, since the original file had almost no contrast)

RepRap is a self-replicating 3D printer. It builds its own gears and components. (detail photos)

 

The coiled polymer feed looks like an IV bag bobbing over the working tip. The dual print head is affectionately called Zaphod.

 

Scattered about are sci foo camp tents… and the ubiquitous “foo bar” beckons in the background, serving variable drafts.

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