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Hello I'm translating the amazing tutorial of clonning avs from the sweetest Fashionist Xantheanne <3




Original Here

This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.


Step by step snapshots at


1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.


2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.


3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200


4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)


5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)

take up saturation to 22


6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)


7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.


8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215


9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)


10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17


11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose

Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)


12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)


13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:

Blues hue: -13 sat: -67

Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)


15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )


16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.


17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer


I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P


And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day.


I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.


Picture II


For those who did not see the first picture...


This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.


It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.


Without words you will understand, what it all means.


Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))


If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.


Next picture tomorrow.



Edit *full tutorial now available here:


Step 1 posted. Maybe you see this in your own colour combo! That would make me happy.


This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.


It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.


Without words you will understand, what it all means.


Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))


If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.


Next picture tomorrow.



Step-by-step tutorial


I've decided to create a tutorial on some fun vintage/retro like effects you can add to your pictures. hope you enjoy.


For the interested who did not see the first four pictures of this serie:


This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.


It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.


Without words you will understand, what it all means.


Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))


If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.


Next picture tomorrow.




Assista o tutorial diretamente no youtube ou visite o blog , assista o vídeo e veja mais fotos :)


Obrigada por acompanharem meu trabalho meninas ♥


Blog | Facebook | Instagram | Youtube

This is actually really old but yesterday I noticed I never posted it, so here it is, a tutorial on light stencils.

For the interested who did not see picture one, two and three...


This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.


It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.


Without words you will understand, what it all means.


Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))


If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.


Next picture tomorrow.



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** Some of the techniques I have used for eyes can also be applied on jewelry or any metal stuff. Enjoy! <33

Oi gente....


Fiz um Tutorial (que tá hilário) de um look que eu uso de dia e de noite...


Veja aqui!!!


Estou aguardando o feedback de vcs, gente....

É a primeira vez q eu faço um vídeo e eu tava meio


Perdoem os erros, ok?!?


Espero opiniões e sugestões!!

E críticas tbm...







Disponibilizei o video numa qualidade melhor aki ó

Copyright 2005-2009 AlexEdg AllEdges (


Hi guys.

I´ve been getting many emails where people are asking me how

I work my photos

so I thought you´d like a tutorial.


Well, this is the first time I do a tutorial. I hope

it makes sence. If you find this helpful

I ´ll try to find a photo that needs a massive

work, and do another one, with more steps and screenshots.

This tutorial is made with Photoshop version 8.0, and a basic

knowledge to do this tutorial helps.



duplicate layer, name it sky



with layer we called sky, go to


and put in the numbers





go to IMAGE - AJUSTMENTS - hue saturation






name the background layer mountain (turn off the sky layer)








turn on sky layer, and with that layer selected, erase everything but the sky



duplicate sky layer, name it blur


go to filter - blur - gaussian blur 8,4%



erase everything but the blue tones with a soft brush to make the clouds in focus

and bring down the opacity of the brush at some points



merge sky layer and blur layer and name it sky

at the sky layer go to:







hue-sat and change Cyans, blues and master.

















go to mountain layer







at last I put on a radical gradient

with 50% opacity, to do the vignette

(make new gradient from gray to white, with

opacity at ca 70% on the gray part)

This is what I basically do, with some

images I duplicade layers again and again

to ajust the levels, and the hue sat untill I´m

happy. I sometimes use gaussian blur at the sky

if it´s noise after all the ajustments, and then

erase the clouds part to get the focus.



Duplicate layer, right click on layer and choose duplicate layer, name it 01.


Now you have 2 Layers, called Background and 01. Make sure the 01 layer is chosen.


Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Brightness Contrast. brightness 0 contrast +17


Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Levels - the numbers are 12, 1,00, 215.


Now I´m happy with the sky for now, so now we´ll fix the rocks in the forground.


Duplicate the Background layer, name it 02, and drag it on top of all the layers.


Go to Image - Adjustment layer - Levels ( nb, now go to IMAGE not LAYER) Set it to 17 , 1,91 , 196


With the Erase tool(or Masks) erase the sky and the hill.


Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Hue/Saturation. Choose:

Cyan, -18, -31, 0

Blues, -16, -23, 0


And finally I put a little lomo vignette ( how to? you´ll find that here

The opacity on the vignette layer on this photo here is 50%

In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.


Tutorial here:

Lembram que coloquei a foto do antes e depois da make que fiz na minha amiga Raquel?? Então, acabei gravando o tutorial em vídeo.


Link pro blog


Este es la composición original del concurso, vista en los tutoriales. A raiz de esta imagen como ejemplo, deberán crear su porpia isla flotante.

Hey guys ♥

i made a lil tutorial, how to remove the green background from your snapshots.

im sure there are tons of other ways to do that, this is NOT the only way, but the way i do.

This is my first tutorial or youtube video ever, so please be patient haha.


hope you like it and i could helped you with it a lil bit


client in this pic: Clara Lovell

After a 20 month silence, dipping my toe nervously back into blogland... tutorial now posted here:

This picture demonstrates what can't be done in normal photography (3D glasses required).


A 3D picture that pops out the screen. Watch the picture full size. Put a chair at about 3m (10 feet) away from your monitor. Sit down and watch the branch grow about 80 cm (3 feet) out of your screen!


This is one of my first digital 3D pictures, made with one camera and a simple plastic slider on a tripod.


TUTORIAL - How to make an anaglyph using Photoshop



• Start Photoshop.


• Open the two pictures of your stereo pair.

• Make yourself sure of which is the left and which is the right picture.

• Open the channels palette (menu: Window, Channels). You’ll see the channels RGB, Red, Green and Blue with a small eye in front.


• Activate the LEFT picture (click the title bar).

• Select the red channel in the palette (Ctrl-1). Now only the red channel has the small eye in front. The picture shows the red channel in grayscale.

• Select all (Ctrl-A) and copy to the clipboard (Ctrl-C).


• Activate the RIGHT picture (click the title bar).

• Select the red channel in the palette (Ctrl-1). Again the picture shows the red channel in grayscale.

• Paste the contents of the clipboard (Ctrl-V). What you just did is replacing the red channel of the right image, by the red channel of the left image.


• Click at the gray square left of the RGB channel in the palette, all small eyes switch back on. Important: don’t click at the channel itself, but in the square where the small eye should be.


• Put on your red/cyan 3D-glasses.

• Stroke V and align the picture with the arrow keys.

• Save the picture under a new name.


cachemash tutorial

by H.Manon


Cachemashing is my name for a somewhat more controlled approach to what Daniel Temkin identified as the Photoshop Truncating Glitch—an approach to image glitching that exploits a problem with early versions of Photoshop. Cachemashing is in my view a relatively pure or true form of glitching, because my control over the outcome is limited almost exclusively to the selection of input files, and to standard user-end changes to Photoshop settings. Once these decisions are made, Photoshop glitches a truncated jpeg file in ways that are difficult and at times impossible to predict. However, what makes this technique compelling is that, through practice, one may nonetheless develop and refine a personal approach, even if the final cause of the glitch remains opaque—a mystery taking place behind-the-scenes of Photoshop’s interface.


I want to preface what follows by saying that I am not a programmer. Although I am fairly savvy as a Photoshop user, my understanding of the program’s internal workings are almost nil. I'm sure if I knew more about the causes of this technique I would be less interested in it. The fun here is really in the "not knowing why."


In this tutorial I mainly describe how I arrived at the image above (a glitched “Currier and Ives” style print of a duck hunt). These specific techniques could be altered in numerous ways and still produce the effect of a cachemash.


What you need to cachemash:


1) Photoshop 6.0 or earlier. I am running Photoshop Elements 1.0, which is the Elements version that corresponds with PS 6.0. My system is Windows XP, and I know that the technique also works when Photoshop 6.0 (or PE 1.0) is installed on Vista. I have not tested this technique on any other OS.


2) A truncated jpeg file in which the point of truncation appears close to the top, resulting in a mostly “blank” image when opened in PS. Jpegs are easy to truncate using code editing programs like Notepad++. My approach is to open the jpeg in Notepad++, delete a couple of lines of data somewhere just below the file header, save, and then open in PS. You have succeeded when you open the file and receive the golden message “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Sometimes it takes ten or so tries to successfully truncate the file, rendering it partially damaged, but not too damaged to open.


3) At least one non-truncated image file that you want to form the mashed-up content of the final image. These are the files you will load into the PS cache.


4) A computer that has sufficient speed and RAM to process the size of image you want to produce.


The procedure:


1) Open a truncated jpeg in Photoshop. The truncated file I used for the “duck hunt” cachemash is 4500 x 4822 pixels @ 300 ppi. The compression rate of the truncated file does not seem to matter. The original image content also does not seem to matter, since the truncation renders it blank.


2) The message pops up: “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Click OK. You will see a blacked-out image, with perhaps a tiny line of color at the top (depending on how near to the top you truncated the file).


3) Now is when you can get creative, in a fascinatingly limited way. Open any file or set of files. Manipulate them as usual in PS, or not. Then close them. For the “duck hunt” image, I pre-sized a jpeg at a width of 8984 (almost but not quite twice the width of the truncated file). This is the trick to obtaining something like a “full frame” cachemash in which the cached image is fully or mostly visible in the final version.


4) Use the filter called Gaussian Blur on the truncated file. A blur radius setting of 0.1 pixels is ideal. This procedure “fixes” the mashed image, in the photographic sense of the word; it stabilizes the data which, up to now, tended to load randomly into the void space of truncated file. The result is a mash-up of certain files and parts of files that have been temporarily stored in the PS cache. (Note: I use Gaussian Blur at 0.1 because of all the possible filters, this one seems to least alter the final image, while still “fixing” it. However virtually every PS filter will "fix" a truncated file).


5) The truncated file is now cachemashed. If you like the results, save to the file format of your choice.


6) Undoing the Gaussian Blur returns the truncated file to its volatile state.


7) Redoing the Gaussian Blur will give new results each time. However (and this is what makes the technique really interesting), the more you undo and redo, the more your “fixed” images also become part of the PS cache. You might think of this as “caching the cache.” If you undo and redo fifty times, the image will be really minced up. But, if at any point you open a new non-truncated jpeg in PS, that jpeg will become part of the cache, and may appear largely in tact as a portion or layer of the mashed image.


Some other tips and observations:


1) In the process of doing and undoing, you will see that when the PS cache attempts to “fill in” the truncated image, it does so in a cycle. The length of the cache cycle is controlled by the size of the cache you elect in Preferences > Memory & Image Cache. I mostly keep cache levels set at 8 (this is max) and RAM used by PS set at 100%. Striking embroidery-like effects can be achieved by reducing RAM used by PS down to 15% or so.


2) Incorporating high contrast RGB images (color or b/w, doesn’t matter) yields brighter colors in the final “fixed” version. Low contrast images produce subtler, more muted colors.


3) Introducing Inverted (i.e. negativized) images to the cache produces interesting results, as do images to which Gradient Map has been applied.


4) It is very unusual to produce a final cachemash that is grayscale, but it sometimes happens.


5) The non-truncated sliver of the truncated file will appear as a black band at the top of the final “fixed” version. I usually crop this out, but this is the only post-processing I do. All of the other effects in images I have posted to Flickr happened prior to the moment of glitching, which I take to be the moment at which PS “fixes” the images.


6) It is possible to create the same cachemash twice. Just open the same files in the same order with the same settings on the same machine. This suggests that there is nothing random about cachemashing. At the same time, if you begin by caching an image that is even one pixel larger or smaller, the results after several cycles of do-and-undo could be radically different.


7) If you overlay the PS crop tool on top of a truncated file, and there is data in the cache, the space within the cropped area will weirdly animate. When you press “crop,” the animation will stop because the image is now fixed.


8) When the final colors you achieve are saturated reds, blues and greens, it is sometimes possible to experience the optical illusion called chromostereopsis.


I will continue to add observations on this page as they come to me.


Good luck!



Closeup of Gabriella, my little vampire Lady :)


She has many layers of gloss varnish on the lips, in order to create some depth.


I add some of my home-made satin varnish on the mascara, but I'm not sure it was a good idea.

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Read it HERE!


If you're going to BFVA you'll get to see these in person! :D


Thanks for viewing and have a great day!


Someone was asking me lots of questions about mohair and asked for a tutorial on how to actually reroot it and everything.... the ones I recommended they didn't find helpful apparently, so I made one for them.


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This is just a funny picture that I will discuss in BLOG in a few days. I'm planning a little tutorial about how to create very cool lighting effects in different ways with Photoshop CS6. Have fun :-)

I've posted a tutorial on how I photoshopped this image on my blog at

Pronto! Panô terminado, prontinho pra cobrir a minha caixa de disjuntores... assim que eu tiver coragem de colocar preguinhos na parede! =P


Tenho dois tutoriais de viés pra indicar, usei ambos no acabamento deste panô:


1) Básico, como aplicar e como fazer os cantinhos:


2) Como finalizar o viés, para que não fique evidente onde começa e onde termina:


Este último é genial, recomendo.. a impressão é que não vai dar certo, mas funciona direitinho!


Beijos, Gi.


Eye shadows are very important in the makeup steps. Smokey eye makeup is a very tricky thing to do. If you are not a makeup expert and you lack incentive for making makeup, it doesn’t mean you cannot do anything. All you have to do is learn some tricks for Smokey eye makeup...

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