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Brillat-Savarin Cheesecake with Strawberry, Elderflower and Champagne | by Renée S. Suen
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Brillat-Savarin Cheesecake with Strawberry, Elderflower and Champagne

Strawberry jelly on a bed of strawberry swiss roll, strawberry sorbet with sorbet.

 

Another beautifully plated masterpiece. A rich slice of nearly room temperature, soft set and almost custard-like in texture strip of cheesecake was covered with a thick, clean and pure strawberry gelée (i.e. not set gelatine). The contrast of the creamy cheesecake against the moist and thick sponge cake layer was, as our server warned, "classic" (i.e. standard, pedestrian, good but nothing extraordinarily unique). The distinct features of the plate relied on the accompanying thick pools of concentrated strawberry and elderflower and champagne jelly

- a winning flavour combination that reminded me much of the Ispahan in terms of colour and aromatics; a mini jelly roll-like sponge cake brushed with sugar syrup and filled with strawberry preserves that acted as an edible pedestal for a fun to eat encapsulated strawberry-raspberry gelée with liquid purée center, and quenelles of clean and refreshing strawberry and crème fraiche sorbets.

 

We should have clued in when our server noted that this dessert was "classic" when we asked what the difference was between it and his recommended Peach Melba. Woe to us to have gone with our mislead gut instincts and order the Brillat-Savarin cheesecake instead (I swear it was the lure of the triple cream cheese – oh how I love thee against the better judgement of my beautiful arteries).

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Taken on June 4, 2008