The Soon Valley in Punjab, Pakistan - January 2011
The 'Soon Valley' (Urdu: [[وادئ سون)]] or Soon Sakesar is one of the famous valleys of Pakistan situated in the central Punjab province. The Valley is situated in the north west of Khushab. Naushera is the main town of the Valley. The Valley starts from Padhrar village and end to Sakesar that is the highest peak of Salt Range. The length of Soon Valley is 35 miles (56 km) and average width is 9 miles (14 km). The area of Soon Valley is 300-square-mile (780 km2). Although not as coold as the valleys up north, Soon valley consists of beautiful lakes, waterfalls, jungles, natural pools and ponds. Soon valley is also blessed with ancient civilization , natural resources, and fertile farms. There are some special features of this valley that distinguish it from other areas, without knowing about them it is very hard to understand its importance. Sabhral, Khoora, Naushera, Kufri, Anga, Ugali, Uchali and Bagh Shams-ud-Din are important towns in soon valley. Kanhatti Garden, Sodhi Garden, Da'ep and Sakesar are resorts to visit. Awan tribe is settled in Soon Valley.
Located at a height of 5,010 feet (1,530 m) above sea level, Sakesar was once the summer headquarters for the Deputy Commissioners of three districts - Campbelpur (now Attock), Mianwali and Shahpur (now Sargodha). It is the only mountain in this part of the Punjab which receives snow fall in winters. In view of Sakesar's ideal location and height, the PAF selected it in the late-50s as the site for a high powered radar which would provide air defence cover for the northeastern part of the western wing. Pakistan Television's re-broadcasting center has been installed to provide terrestrial transmissions coverage to adjoining areas.
Har do sodhi
(sodhi bala and sodhi zarien), Naushahra, Jabbah ,Ugalisharif, Kotli, Mukrumi,Kaamrh,Dhadhar, Mardwal, Kufri, Uchali, Chitta, Khoora,Anga,Khabbaki, kuradhi, Uchhala, Mustafaabad (Bhukhi), Sodhi Jai Wali, Sabhral, Shakarkot, Sirhal, Manawan, Surraki, Jahlar, Anga, Ahmadabad
•Distance from Islamabad: 290 km
•Distance from Sargodha: 110 km
•Lakes : Uchali, Khabbaki, Jahlar, Khura
•Shrines :Sultan Mehdi sahb, sultan Haji Ahmed sahb in Uchhala, Baba Shikh AkbarDin Ugalisharif, Pir Baba Sakhi Muhammad Khushhaal in Khabbaki, Amb Shareef, Baba beri Wala in Naushera, Abul Hameed & Aziz Ahmedabad
The main tribe of the area is the Awan of ancient repute. This tribe came in this area with Qutab Shah and settled in the Soon valley. The other sub branches and small tribes are Shehal, Ardaal, Mirwal, Adriyal, Shenaal in Kufri, Latifal, Jurwal, Radhnal, Sheraal in Naushehra, Pirkal in Jallay wali, Majhial in Mardwal,Bazral, Chhatal,Ghadhyal,Phatal,Yakial, Maswal in Ugalisharif, Phatwal and Bhojo khail, Sheral, Mianwaddal , Alyaral, Sher Shahal in Khabbaki and so on. In the valley Awan's are known by their clans. In old time the head of clan in each village was known as Raees, and the head of a tribe was known as Raees-Azam. The most famous Raees Azam were Pir Naubahar Shah of Pail,Malik Ameer Haider of Kufri, Qazi Mazhar Qayyum of Naushera and Lumberdar Syed Gul peer Shah of Sodhi,Baba Hafiz Ilyas of Chitta.
A majority of the people are serving in the armed forces of Pakistan. Many loyal brave soldiers and officers belong to this land who even laid down their lives for their homeland.
Other professions like education, business, transportation and agricultural are also adopted by the locals. The people are hard working and agriculture used to be the main profession. Per person square footage of land decreased, as population increased. Consequently the people have migrated to large cities for jobs.
There are famous writers like Ahmad Nadeem Qasimi, and journalist from this area. Famous Physicians and Surgeons like Dr. Muzaffar-ul-Haq, Dr. Ghaus Malik neurosurgen (USA), Dr. Javaid Malik (USA), Dr. Nazir Ahmed Malik (Child Specialist) and Hafiz Habib Sultan (Eye Specialist) and Shaukat Memud Awan, general secretary Adara Tehqiqul Awan pakistan also belong to this land.
FARMING: Our farmers are also not behind to make their real contribution in agricultural growing corps like wheat , dalls , jawar and bajra including makaee crops .In this way our farmer is also playing a remarkable roll to full fill the local food requirement at large level , i remember that our local production of wheat including other eatable plus abandant quantity of vegitable for our local use with addition we are meeting the requirement demand of vegitable up to Lahore , Gujranwala , Sargodha , Talagang and Rawalpindi Districts for their people at large quiantiy hence our small population is never dependant on any one else . We are self sufficient .
Review on “My celestial Dreams” written by Abdul Ghaffar Aamir Ghufri Valley Soon Sakaser khushab AAMIR’S POETRY AND MONTOMERY
By Allama Muhammad Yousuf Gabriel
I opened the book, here and there, and my cursory glance met with certain spurts of genius. There was before me the vision of a bud that could blossom one day into fascinating flower to adorn the garden of English poetry. To reach that pinnacle, however, sincerity, purity, fortitude, patience, perseverance and learning, besides the general pre-requisites, such as imagination, wit, faculty of expression and command over language were necessary. The first two poems are hymns about the omnipresence of God. Quite naturally my thought went to a poem “The Omnipresence of Lord”, written by Montgomery. My acquaintance with this poem was due to its review written by Lord Macaulay in 1830. Literary Essay of Lord Macaulay) the review indeed was horrible. Shaking his fierce trident, the enraged critic fell upon the author with deadliest attack and would not cause till the victim lay dead. This was the work of blind fury; we have seen only such part of poem which were exhibited by the critic and faulty. Yet despite Macaulay’s total condemnation of the work, we think that criticism as a preplanned act of cruel murder. We are not in a position to challenge of defy the points raised by Macaulay, yet we cannot hesitate to assert that the work after all was not so bad and also, that besides flaws. It contained point of merit, for example it’s them, which Macaulay had internationally refuse to see. This certainly meant the violence of the rule of criticism. On the whole we think this Macaulay’s criticism as a tragedy in the annals of criticism itself. It is the blemish on the name of both of the critic and the criticism. Montgomery fell as the victim of illuck before the trident of Macaulay, who himself tells us in his article, that the practice of puffing of worthless literary works was the vogue in England. Macaulay called upon every one who was anxious for the purity of the national taste or for the honour of the literary character to join in this discountenancing the practice that of puffing which according to him was then so shamefully and so successfully carried on in the country. It was on this point that Montgomery appeared as the target, because Montgomery’s work had run into eleven editions. It is thus in his effort to discountenancing the practice of puffing that Macaulay fell headlong upon a poet whose work despite flaws had certain points of merit and was purchased and read with rapture in eleventh edition by the public of England. The whole article of Macaulay is interesting, but due to the considering of space, we shall have to be content with only one instance of Macaulay’s criticism. Say, he: “The all pervading influence of the Supreme being is then described in a few tolerable lines borrowed from Pope and a great many intolerable of Mr. Robert Montgomery’s own. The following may stand as a specimen.”. : Upon thy Mirror earths majestic view, : To paint thy presence and to feel it too, These last two lines contain and excellent specimen of Mr. Robert Montgomery’s Turkey carpet style of writing. The Majestic view of the earth is the mirror of God’s presence. And on this mirror Mr. Robert Montgomery paints God’s presence. The use of a mirror submit is not to be painted upon”. Says Macaulay:
We do not mean that this couplet is the specimen of high class English poetry, but the word paint of the mirror put easily be some substituted by the word canvas and show. We, however, want to make it clear that we are not going to judge the work of our point. Aamir on the standard of poet like Montgomery. Our poet shows the signs of genius that could rise to the highest of high class poetry in English.
Now before we leave Macaulay and Montgomery to rest in their graves, we intend to show some identity of thought and view between Montgomery and Aamir and not at all with a view to evaluating their works in comparison. Monitory’s work can stand no comparison. His verse is slow, sluggish, unwidely and lacks the qualities of high class poetry. While the works of Aamir is brist, precise, to the point and expressed with strong effect. Aamir’s thought a beginner in a language which is quite foreign to him, yet he shows the sign of rising to highest maintain while the great English poet. Montgomery says : : There is not a blossom fondled by the breeze, : There is not a fruit that beautify the trees, : There is not a particle in sea or air, : But nature own thy plastic influence there” Aamir says: : I feel your hand wherever I look in every flower, tree or brook, Montgomery says : : Yet not alone created realm engage, : Thy faultless wisdom, grand primeval sage: For all the thronging woes of life allied, Thy Mercy Tempers and Thy cares provide” Aamir says:- All kingdoms are yours, all crowns for you, You are the greatest, perfect and true When we suffers sorrow and decay, Your blessings see us through all the way: Montgomery says: : The dew that on the violet lies, Mocks the dark luster of thine eyes” Aamir says:- : All this beauty, charms and grace, Is just a lovely glimpse of your face”. We have given the above-quoted verse to see the identity of the views of the two poets, and to see also the difference between the rim odes of expression. Surely the verses of Aamir taken from his Hymn must be his earliest, yet his styles who was sort of precision which lacks in Montgomery’s verse. But Aamir has to be judged by the second part of his work, “My Celestial Dreams”. Therein we can have the audacity to show his work in comparison to greatest English poets. And he is as yet so young. As for as Montgomery’s work is concerned we can agree with Macaulay when he says:
His writing bears the same relation to poetry which a Turkey carpet bears to a picture. There are colours in the Turkey carpet out of which a picture might be made. There are words in Mr. Montgomery’s writing which, when disposed in certain corders and combinations, have made, and will again make, good poetry:
Yet our complaint is that Macaulay’s treatment of Montgomery was ruthless. Ruthless beyond any bounds, Montgomery was taken as a scrape-goat. As far as Aamir’s work is concerned, he himself says:
This humble effort of mine is not meant to stir your imagination towards the poetic proness of my pen, but just to apprise you of the fact that I have drunk deeply at he fountain of God’s love for human souls”.
While reading the work of Aamir, “My celestial dreams”, novice though he is, the eye meets everywhere some expression which sounds like the voice of some great English poet, such as Keats, Shelly, Wordsworth etc. to reach the pinnacle, however, means constant flight. Aamir is not so unfortunate as Montgomery was. He is in better times, and in a better environment. The world now sick of materialism, has begun to take interest in religion. And thus the product of his mind has every probability acceptance and appreciation all over the world. His work, “My celestial Dream” could a well be divined into two distinct parts, that is before the poem. “Hero of the land”, and after that to etched end. The second part has distinctive superiority over the first. The poet appears to be blossoming fast and has reached a remarkable standard of efficiency. His thought share sacred. His expression is origin and sublime. He certainly does not appear like a foreigner who has learned English languages. He rather composes his poetry like the aboriginal English poet. His themes are simple yet deeply touching and indeed great. Judging by this religious trend, he might be taken by some European critic as a bigot, which he certainly is not. Milton and Bunyan both poets of Christianity have long since been thrown into oblivion due to surging waves of modern materialism. Whereas Aamir stands a real chance to make his mark in the world as poet of Islam. The credit of eulogizing the Holy Prophet (Peace be Upon Him) in English poetry goes to him. He has emerged as a pioneer in that field. We will now quote some of his waves to see and urge the prowess of his pen. He might deny it, yet his pen is impressive beyond expectations:-
“O! Crescent star flag! I pray you fly, With honour so high, Above this world, And azure sky, “Sons of Turkey, the tigers of Kamal Brave courageous handsome and tall “In sweet sleeps of night I see your dreams, My love for your flows like rivers and streams. O! Father come back Wipe my eyes Kiss me. Come and grace my beautiful world, Which I made for you, And be my love Part of eternity. For my love is true and eternal Born in heaven, reared an earth, Pulling you from the burning sun. It will fill you with joy and mirth. So my love, now we separate, Let time and fate on love operate, With flaming passion we shall meet, Our souls, then pure rejoice, for ever greet, Today it is corpse But yesterday it was, A paragon Wistfully recalled the golden day’s When I was like a flower, Like a delightful nightingale, I felt as if truly, I had come to what I was again You shall be forever sought, By the one who shall not? See you again Your sketch I adored it, In the temple of my soul, And worshipped it, All my life. These are some examples of Aamir’s verse which we have quoted. And we wish him good and good speed. May he blossom one day into and an eminent literacy figure, and be our pride. Dated: 14th January 1986.
Allama Muhammad Yousuf Gabriel C/O Khalid General Strores, Main Bazar, Nawababad, Wah Cantt. Distt. Rawalpindi, Pakistan.
The Awans of the Soon Valley were also amongst those the British considered to be "martial race". The British recruited army heavily from Soon Valley for service in the colonial army, and as such, the Awans of this area also formed an important part of the British Indian Army, serving with distinction during World Wars I and II. Of all the Muslim groups recruited by the British, proportionally, the Awans produced the greatest number of recruits during the First and Second World Wars. Contemporary historians, namely Professor Ian Talbot and Professor Tan Tai Yong, have authored works that cite the Awans (amongst other tribes) as being looked upon as a martial race by not only the British, but neighbouring tribes as well. The army of Pakistan also heavily recruits Awans from this area. Awans occupy the highest ranks of the Pakistani Army. DHAHDHAR :- This is one of the most important village of this soon valley , which is producing wheat and vegitable at large quantity for offording local population as well as upto the range of Lahore , Gujranwala, Sargodha , Talagang & Rawalpindi Districts .
LIVE STOCK :- Our village is producing live stock breeding at large scal hence contributing a major roll for production of various type of animal like bufaloos , cow' , oxen, sheep and goats to full fill the requirement of general publc in case of meet , milk and skins for manufecturing of leather shoes and leather garments .
There are two well-renowned Uchhali Lake and Khabikki Lake lakes in Soon valley. Uchhali is a salt water lake in the southern Salt Range area in Pakistan. This lake is formed due to the absence of drainage in the range. Sakaser, the highest mountain in the Salt Range, looms over the lake. Due to its brackish water the lake is lifeless. But it offers a picturesque scenery. Khabikki Lake is a salt water lake in the southern Salt Range area in Pakistan. This lake is formed due to the absence of drainage in the range. The lake is one kilometer wide and two kilometres long. Khabikki is also the name of a neighbouring village. Boats are also available and there is a rest house beside the lake. A hill gently ascended on the right side of the lake. The lake and the green area around provide a good scenery. These lakes attract thousands of migratory birds each year and are ideal haven for the bird watchers.
Tucked in the southern periphery of the Salt Range and hemmed in by its higher cliffs, is a cluster of natural lakes — Ucchali, Khabbeki and Jhallar in district Khushab. These lakes are said to be 400 years old, maybe more. The lakes are a prime sanctuary for the migratory birds and were declared a protected sanctuary for the native and migratory avifauna on the appeal of World Wildlife Fund. Nestled at about 800 meters above the sea, lakes have some marsh vegetation and are mostly surrounded by cultivated land, which is picturesquely intersected by hillocks. The lakes are fed by the spring, seepage from adjacent areas, and run off from the neighbouring hills of the historic Salt Range. The lakes are one of the most important wintering areas for the rare white-headed ducks (Oxyura leucocephala) in Pakistan that comes here from Central Asia. Locals believe that there is a volcano hidden beneath the surface of the Ucchali Lake due to which the colour of the water keeps changing. The appearance of a vert broad and brightly coloured rainbow in 1982 for consecutive 15 days is also attributed to this analogy. in 1982, a strange phenomenon was observed in the villages Ucchali and Dhadhar. The lakes’ water is also said to cure gout and skin diseases. People have been taking the water from the lakes as far as Lahore and Karachi. People think that a pure white winged creature called Great egret, from Grus family, found in the area is a symbol of longevity.
Town and Villages
•Kufri (now its name is sadiq abad so called with this new name)
har do sodhi soon become union consil
Different Villages Location
Villages west of Naushehra are Sabhral, Kufri, Koradhi,Uchhali, and Chitta before reaching the Pakistan Air Force Base of Sakesar.
Villages to the north west of Naushehra are Sirhal, Shakarkot Anngah and Ugalisharif.
Villages to the north east of Naushehra are Mardowal, Makrumi,Kamrah,Dhadar, Ahmadabad, Khabakki and Jabah.
Villages to the south west of Naushehra are har do sodhi , Surraki and Jahlar.
Villages to the south of Naushehra are Chamraki and Sodhian villages.
Villages to the east of Naushehra are Dhakah, Mirokah Dhakah, Jalay Wali, (Uchhalah is not on the main road), Sodhi Jai Wali, Kaliyal, Khurrah, and Kathwai.
Padhrar and Pail-Piran are not the part of soon valley but these villages are in the same election area and fall on Chakwal-Khushab road.
There are scattered colonies of certain families which are called Dhok. Usually at each Dhoke there are two to ten houses.
•Lakes: Ugalisharif & Uchalli Lake, Khabikki Lake and Jahlar Lake.
•Waterfalls at Kufri.
•Ambh Sharif is a historical place in Hinduism.
•Kanahti Garden, Sodhi Garden, Khabakki Jheel,Ugalisharif & Uchali Jheel, Sakesar and Daip Shareef and the hiking experiences of hills
•Anga, an important village.
•Sodhi village has waterfalls, a Rest House, and wild animals like Cheetah, Rabbit, Deer, Teetar (Urdu name of a bird).
•Shrines of Babashikh Akbar Din Darbar-e- aaliah Chishtiah Akbariah UGALISHRIF, Makan Sharif Kufri sajadh nashin Sahibzadh Muhammad Hamid Aziz Hamidi, Pir Khawja Noori and Pir Sahib Acha (Hacha)- descendents of Baha Ud Din Zakkariyya Multani(Hazrat Baha Ul Haq)in Pail-Piran
•Ganji Pahari, Baba shikh Akbar Din Darbar-e- aaliah Chishtiah Akbariah UGALISHRIF. Baba Sewu Beri Wala and Baba Mari Wala in Naushera.
•Baba shikh Akbar Din Darbar-e- aaliah Chishtiah Akbariah Ugli Sharif and Pir Khawaja Noori in Pail jant
•Mahala Jurwal, is the biggest and most densed street of Naushahra. Malik Sultan Mubaraz, a well knw transporter of last dacade belongs to this street
•Mahala Qazian Wallah, is also a famous street of Naushera, where the famous qadis of Naushera used to live.
•Graveyard of qadi family
•Sodhi Jai Wali is also famous for its natural Water falls and Garden as well. The Garden is located near a Historical Rest House, It is said that this Rest House was gifted by Syed Family of Sodhi Jai wali to the British Rulers.