@Maso dello Speck
In Alto Adige. You just have to love a place that says they're all booked for lunch, but an afternoon reservation at 4pm will be just fine for a merenda (like having munchies a few hours before dinner). Smoked speck, boiled speck, bresaola, pancetta, salumi, pickles, cheese and some really H-H-HOT horseradish sauce served with a basket of rolls and dark bread. Viva Italia!
And don't forget the beer!