Moon on April 8th, 2011
E-P1 on a William Optics ZS80
(0.8x reducer/flattener, 2x extender making for the odd 768mm focal length)
And welcome to the visitors from photofacts.
Thank you for clicking through, here are 3 key details to how this picture was created.
1. Camera and lens/scope stability.
Very stable 'tripod', actually, an EQ5 telescope mount. That is some 15kg of metal providing a lot of stability and dampening. Additionally I use a wired remote trigger to prevent having to touch the camera/telescope. Also using mirror lockup (DSLR) or enabling a short delay before re-opening the shutter (mirrorless cameras, called anti-shock on my Olympus PEN) is a good idea. If your camera has in-body image stabilization, disable it.
The small telescope that I often use has a very nice dual speed Crayford focuser which allows for very accurate focus. Also, I make use of the 'live view' function of my camera to obtain a high level of magnification (14x) to help during focusing.
3. Exposure, black point and gamma
Expose for not blowing the hilights, as those are small and tend to be mostly ignored by your camera's metering. In post processing, move up the black point to ensure your sky stays nicely black, and use the gamma curve to bring out the surface details (generally means making the gamma curve somewhat steeper)