Day 2: Mount Mills (13,451 ft)
Mount Mills is a fine 13er nestled between Mt. Abbot and Ruby Peak above Little Lakes Valley. The...See more
Mount Mills is a fine 13er nestled between Mt. Abbot and Ruby Peak above Little Lakes Valley. The approach is short from Mosquito Flat Trailhead, which was nice after the long day to Electra. However, there are no easy routes to climb the peak itself. I decided to attempt the East Couloir route after declining Bob's invitation to traverse from Ruby Peak. Starting at 6am we made good time to Ruby Lake and Mills Lakes from where I ascended to the bottom of the East Couloir. The crux of the climb was the huge chockstone blocking the entrance to the couloir (hard class 3). The couloir was extremely loose and rockfall posed a real danger, especially with a larger number of climbers ascending. I reached the summit without incident and stayed for almost an hour to give others the chance to ascend the couloir safely before starting my descent. Before returning to the trailhead I climbed Lookout Peak as a side trip with Nathan and Ryan.