This was taken moments after the previous shot, and may help explain why Jennifer looked a bit serious in that one. The swell was too big to use the channel to enter the water safely, so most jump from the adjacent rocks, timing the jump to ride the receding white water away from shore. As long as your timing is good, the strong current will do the rest.
Getting back in here is harder, as the same strong current works against you. To avoid lots of paddling in place, some try to ride a wave as far as possible toward the rocks, which of course has its own drawbacks ;-)