2012 365 - DAY 10/President's Day
And what a surprise, I'm back at the beach.
When I arrived it was a solid wall of surfers, but they all seemed to drift away after about an hour or so and I had the waves almost all to myself.
I've determined that what I lack in surfing skill I make up for with determination and a reckless disregard for personal safety. It was a good surf day despite wracking my knee in a wipe-out and getting a mild bop on the nose from my board while fighting my way to the outside.
As far as President's Day goes, I think I once saw a photo somewhere of Eisenhower at Iwojima with a longboard...