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Chamonix - Windy and Cloudy Day @Mont Blanc du Tacul (4 248m) | by GlobeTrotter 2000
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Chamonix - Windy and Cloudy Day @Mont Blanc du Tacul (4 248m)

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Mont Blanc du Tacul is one of Mont Blanc main summits: Mont Blanc itself (4810m), Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, Mont Maudit (4465) , Dôme du Gouter (4304 m) , Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m), Aiguille de Bionassay (4025m).


Of course, it's located on the 3 Monts Blanc route (Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc).


The normal route is a 2 hours of walk away from the Refuge des Cosmiques on a glacier in the north face (600hm) with variety of snow and ice types. From the cable car of the Aiguille du Midi, you can reach the refuge by descending about 300 meters (45 mn). The route is not very long but take care of snow, seracs, and weather conditions . Serac falls, snow accumulation avalanches have still killed people here at any hour. It can become cold and windy in a very short time. In clouds it's not easy to find the path on glacier and there are some big crevasses near col du Midi. The way from col du Midi to the summit is just a steep glacier walk with difficulty PD+. That is a reasonable difficulty for crevassed route. The second part of the ascend route to the "Epaule" is exposed : long steep snow/ice slope over some big serac cliffs. The last 30 meters to the summit are of ice and rocks and partially exposed over the steep east face.


This route can be combined with the ridge '' arete des Cosmiques '' on the Aiguille du Midi. Difficulty AD with rockclimbing III+.


It is one of the most climbed peaks in Chamonix Valley because of its location on 3 Ms' route and short access from cable car. Don't forget the objective dangers of this face (Snow or Seracs avalanches, crevasses, fog), especially when coming back late from long routes (Mt Blanc Du Tacul east side, Mont Maudit routes, Mont Blanc 3M route, or Mont Blanc Traverse).


The video of Mont Blanc climbing is here :

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Taken on July 12, 2012