• The celeriac, leek and porcini gratin, a good substantial basis for the dish.
  • Grilled spring onions, of course.
  • This is not a scoop of soft-serve icecream, it's the deep fried egg. Hardboiled, so it didn't ooze out when I cut into it. Still, odd.

Modern Pantry, Clerkenwell, London

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My main course, "celeriac, leek and porcini gratin, grilled spring onions, a deep fried egg, sumac", at The Modern Pantry, St Johns Square. That's the egg on top. It's not icecream. It was lovely.

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