Simplicity 3867 - Silk Empire Waist Tunic
Pattern: Simplicity 3867, View C
Fabric: Silk Dupioni (100% silk)
Lining: Cotton Batiste (100% cotton)
Notions: 18" invisible zipper; hook & eye; 1" wide twill tape; lace hem tape
Description: Silk empire waist tunic
When I first saw this pattern, it really did nothing for me. It especially did nothing for me when I say it in Sew Stylish magazine. The way the dress and the top was shown on the model on the inside made her chest look like deflated balloons... talk about an ill fit. But I kept on seeing positive reviews on PR and decided to give it a shot by adding it to my S.W.A.P. collection.
I always get a little concern with the fit of the bodice with sewing tops that aren't knit and don't have front darts or princess seams. When I did my tissue fit, I saw that my usual size 14 would not provide enough ease through the bust area. I cut the bodice front in a size 16 to compensate for my full bust size and cut the back in a size 14. I also cut the yoke (shoulder piece) in a size 16 for additional length and cut the skirt part in a 14. I used cotton batiste to line both bodice pieces and also used it for the interfacing of the yokes.
I added a waist stay using twill tape because when I did a fitting, the waist felt like it wanted to ride up underneath my bra. Since I was working with the dupioni that ravels something awful, I used french seams. The instructions suggested a lapped zipper installation and 99% of the time when I make a top or a dress, I ALWAYS use invisible zippers. I haven't done it yet, but I do plan to add lingerie guards to keep my bra straps in place.
Overall, this was a very simple pattern that is well drafted and I hardly read the instructions.