The "CHANEL" Jacket
Shell: Boucle Suiting (62% Wool, 13% Cotton, 13% acrylic, 12% nylon)
Lining: Silk Charmeuse (100% Silk)
Notions: Ten 7/8" shank buttons; 5 yards of 1/2" flexible trim; 3 coat size hooks & eyes; and chain
In doing my research for this jacket, I have looked at EVERYTHING CHANEL I could find. I have searched through Karl's RTW and Couture Collections from 2003 to the present. I found that the jackets that appealed to me the most were from Fall 2003, Fall 2004 and Fall 2005. I decided that the short, boxy version was not for me. I preferred the longer style with a little bit of nipping in at the waist. So I guess you can say that my jacket is modern like Karl and constructed like Coco!
This was a very labor-intensive project and I truly understand the price point of these iconic jackets.
I made a FBA.I cut out all of my pieces in a single layer and added a 2 inch seam allowance.I quilted the silk lining to the shell fabric by sewing vertical lines about 1" apart with a walking foot. I sewed the quilting stitches on the white part of the fabric because the lining is white and I was using white thread.In order to keep the threads from showing, you don't back stitch at the end. You pull the threads in between the lining and the shell fabric and tied them off.Using a walking foot, I machine stitched the shell seams.The lining seams were hand finished using fell stitches.
The shell fabric and lining are machine quilted together (as a substitution for interfacing) so that the shell fabric will not sag or loose it's shape. Genius right?!I set the sleeves by hand.I used the three-piece sleeve pattern from Vogue 8259.
Hemmed the shell fabric using a catchstitch.Attached the lining to the shell fabric using a fell stitch.I folded the pocket piece into the correct shape, making sure the plaid pattern would match up and trimmed it down before attaching.
I hand stitched the trim to the pockets and attached the pockets.
"Luxury is what can not be seen." - Coco Chanel
I hand sewed the chain weight right below the lining.The House of CHANEL uses a brass chain at the hemline on the inside of the jackets to make them hang smoothly. The before and after of the chain is like night and day.