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Here's an English translation by Karoliina Härkönen (please respect the copy right!):


Yarn and yarn outlets

Novita Isoveli (75% wool, 25% polyamide, 130 m/100g), 600 g of yellow (shade 228)

Other similar yarns on the market which could be a suitable replacement yarn include Gjestal Topp't Tå (100% wool, 55 m/50g).



14 sts and 21 rows in stockinette = 10 cm

Lace gauge is not essential, as the lace portions of the pattern will stretch to fit the wearer.



6 mm circular needle, 80 cm or longer

6 mm DPNs


As each knitter’s gauge is unique, use a needle size that gives you the mentioned gauge.


Other Accessories

4 stitch markers

10 buttons, diameter 12 mm

about 5 metal snaps

thick, blunt needle for sewing the folded hems



M / L

Chest measurement: 90 cm unstretched, however, will stretch to fit a 95cm bust

Waist: 76 cm unstretched

Arm circumference: 29 cm, but the pattern is at it’s best with a larger arm circumference

Length, from the hem to the collar: 69 cm

Jacket is knit top-down with raglan-sleeves, so it is easy to try on and adjust to fit your own measurements.





Cast on 52 stitches.

Knit in st st until height is about 5 cm (about 9 rounds).

Note! Maintain last 2 sts in garter stitch.

On the next right side row K1, * yo, k2tog*, repeat from * to last stitch, K1. Continue in st st until height after yo row is 5 cm (about 11 rows). End on a purl (WS) row.



Divide the stitches for the fronts, the sleeves and the back as follows:

K11, yo, place marker, k1, yo, k3, yo, pm, k1, yo, k20, yo, pm, k1, yo, k3, yo, pm, k1, yo, k11.

Purl the next row until the last 2 sts, K2.

Next row: * knit up to the marker, yo, slip marker, k1, yo *, repeat from * (5 sleeve sts between the yarn overs).

Purl the next row until the last 2 sts, K2.

Next row: * knit up to the mark, yo, slip marker, 1 o, yo *, repeat from * (7 sleeve sts between the yarn overs).

Purl the next row until the last 2 sts, K2.

Next row: * knit up to the mark, yo, slip marker, 1 o, yo *, repeat from * (9 sleeve sts between the yarn overs).

Purl the next row until the last 2 sts, K2.

Next row: * knit up to the mark, yo, place marker, 1 o, yo *, repeat from * (11 sleeve sts between the yarn overs). This row is the bottom row of the sleeve chart.

Purl the next row until the last 2 sts, K2.

Begin lace pattern on the sleeves, while continuing the raglan increases as specified above.

Continue the sleeve chart, using the sleeves’ centre stitches. This will create raglan sleeves, with raglan increases on each right side row (increasing 2 stitches per sleeve on right side rows). These stitches are knit on RS rows and purled on WS rows i.e. in stockinette stitch. The portion of the chart that is repeated is shown on a light blue background. Rows 12 – 15 of the chart are a model of how the sleeve widens and how the lace pattern fits into the pattern.

Once you have 43 stitches, including the inner yarn overs, put the sleeve stitches on hold and knit the body.

This requires 30 rows of knitting, in other words the sleeve pattern is repeated a total of 3 times. If you want to knit a larger size, you can continue the increases further. You can try the jacket on at this point. If you want a smaller jacket, do not do so many repeats.


Body Part

Continue to knit in st st for another 9cm (about 18 rows). The last two stitches on WS rows should be knit.

Begin the waist decreases on the next right side row: * knit in st st up to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2tog*, repeat from * once, knit in st st to the end of the row.

Repeat these decreases every 6th row three more times (a total of 16 stitches decreased – 4 sts per decrease round).

Knit 3 rows in st st and start increase rounds: * knit st st until marker, add 1 s (pick up bar between sts and ktbl), slip marker, add 1 s *, repeat from * once again, knit st st to the end of row.Repeat these increases every 4th row 9 more times (a total of 40 stitches increased).

Knit the last 11 rows in st st. This is important in order to ensure that the picot edge and the folded hem drape nicely.

On the next right side row K3, * yo, k2 *, repeat from * to the last stitch, K1.

Knit 10 rows in st st. Cast off the stitches loosely.



Move sleeve stitches onto the double pointed needles. Maintain lace pattern in the middle of stitches as before, and the rest of stitches are knit in st st.

When you have knitted approx. 8 cm of the sleeve (about 15 rows), begin sleeve decreases. K2tog, knit the rest of the stitches till 2 remain, k2tog tbl. Repeat these decreases every 14th row five more times (a total of 12 stitches decreased). If the last decreases are likely to be less than 5 cm from the wrist and the desired length of the sleeve, leave them out.

Knit two rows in st st. After this work the picot edge: k1, * yo, k2*, repeat from * till end of the row.

Knit four more rows of st st. Cast off loosely.


Button band

Button band is knit separately. Before knitting the button band, wash and block the jacket. This is done in order to figure out the length of the button band.

Cast on 16 stitches and knit 3 rows in garter st.

K2 (k these 2 sts on wrong side rows too) and then knit the first line of the button band chart. Continue to repeat the chart until the band has reached the desired length. The model jacket contains eight repeats of the button band chart. Wash and block the finished button band.



Sew button band onto the jacket’s right front edge using mattress stitch.

Fold over the neckline to form the picot edge and sew it closed at the bottom using blind stitching. I alternated taking a loop from the cast on edge with taking the top edge of a stitch from the outer piece onto the needle. The top edge of a stitch from the outer piece will look something like a small minus sign on the wrong side.

Turn the cuffs and sew them closed.

Turn the hemline and sew it closed.

Spread the jacket out on a flat surface and measure where to place the buttons from the tips of the lace. Mark these places with pins and sew the buttons on.

Sew snaps in places where the garment will likely be stretched most when worn, for example, at the breasts and hips, or at the top of the collar. One half of the snap should be on the left front edge and the other half on the seam between the right front edge and the button band.


The necessary charts can be found here:


Please note that the m on the chart stands for a double decrease!

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Taken on January 6, 2010