Upper cabinets came down, and that made a huge difference. I based the color scheme of the kitchen on Frank Sinatra's. We kept the original lower cabinets and countertop, and just added new paint and hardware. We put in a new vent hood and open shelving for everyday dishes. I love the tile, and the space feels ginormous - even though it's a galley. I actually really really love the galley. The light fixture over the sink was a $14 IKEA purchase to match the rad original light fixture in the breakfast area.
Blogged about the "after" pictures of the renovation here!