ChanHawkins - View my most interesting photos on Flickriver

www.flickriver.com/photos/43634577@N00/sets/
email One to contact "Starting Out"
Camera contact, "Starting Out"
-Have fun.
-It is a passion that can be time consuming.
-I noticed a couple of different cameras being used in your images. Spend lots of time getting to know the operation features of those cameras you have. Many folks, including myself can surprise themselves by learning what else your camera can help you create.
-I wish I had leaned earlier to naming my images. A descriptive paragraph (or whatever you have time for) can be informative in places like flickr. Creating images is communication and there is a value in enhancing the image by communicating with names and descriptions.
-Composition and the perspective of where the image was composed from are very important. Way to often I change my composition on the computer afterwards. This works great but adds a lot of time to my passion. Some of my best images are from unusual perspectives.
-Always look for special light. I still don't handle back lighting very well, but now days I have learned to look for extreme lighting like "back lighting" and then spend extra time while the light lasts, to create a special use of such lighting.
-Learn what you feel are good images. I lean way too far the other way thinking everything is a good image prospect and thinking every image can be improved on the computer to be a wonderful image. I now believe my passion would have progressed in a more timely manner if I had concentrated on being more aware of the better images.
-There is so much to learn.
-There is so much to see.
-This list of hints could go on and on, but better to pick up your camera and enjoy.
-Enjoy your passion.
-Have fun.
ps:
Earlier I thought of another tip that I have been learning the hard way for a long time. No matter how experienced in holding the camera I think I am, it is always smart to use whatever means available to hold it steadier. Multiple shots, tripod, monopod, porch rail, good hand grip, whatever, use them if you can. The best focus possible is the goal and taking advantage of all things that steady your camera is how you get there. Best of luck and the others are right as well -- "have fun and enjoy". That leads to you being nearer to ready all the time and leads to many of your own images from which you can continue to learn. Hope that makes sense.



==Note==:
You are welcome. If your image has a group invite or you just want to know whether a few more moments of exposure might help get the image commented on, be sure to move it forward in the time line prior to accepting the invite. It adds a potential of other viewers seeing the image at the same time.
One local photographer told me a couple of years ago that one of the important things to learn about photography is to be able to identify a good image. Other peoples comments has helped me considerably in the identification. Good luck and have fun.
Chan

==email 3 response to flickr friend.==
==response to friends question about light washed out areas and overly dark areas and detail loss==
I took many images of this, partly because one needed to guesstimate when the incoming wave would whistle through the blow hole. Later as time permits, I will check the exif data for all those images and try to determine why this one worked. Until then, I suggest you check the exif data on this picture. You find that under the 'actions' menu above the image. It says I was using manual settings, with spot meter. It also said my exposure compensation bias was -2/3 ev. Likely I was watching the histogram. If the histogram peaks and sides bang against the right side, I am losing bright details. If it bangs against the left side, I am losing dark detail and getting more black instead of grey. (assuming I understand it correctly). As I compensated to the -2/3ev correction, I was likely trying to regain a little of the bright details. Your situation sounds like ("ends up with black rocks or washed out sky.") it was bouncing between these two extremes, perhaps with no compensation (or too much compensation each time). I don't know if you were using spot metering, but sometimes switching to the opposite (less of a spot pattern) will give you either more control or a more general average reading. Either of these may allow for a better range of details (without as much washed out bright areas or dark detail-less areas). Shooting in RAW I believe, allows for a little more recovery from those negative extremes when you make a mistake. The corrections on the computer from a RAW shot image are slightly more forgiving concerning errors of the dark lost detail than they are from the bright lost details. Thus (assuming my current understanding continues to appear to be correct), I attempt to push the histogram peaks and sides close to (but not touching) the right side when I can. It may turn out this is not entirely correct, but so far I am pretty happy with the results. The work on the computer is not easy or anywhere quick enough. But in my minds eye, it becomes a part of taking the photo of the image. Hope this helps.
Thank you very much for your comments.
Chan

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Name:
Chan Hawkins
Joined:
July 2005
I am:
Male and Taken