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PUSH techniques

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

please post your PUSH techniques here!
11:54AM, 10 November 2010 PDT (permalink)

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

PEELING

best results thus far, immediately (and up to 15 minutes) after shooting
cut the sides and top of the photo and peel gently and SMOOTHLY (no stops and starts)

image peeled after 24 hours was trickier, emulsion was still damp and bubbled slightly while being peeled.
55 months ago (permalink)

M. Stevens [deleted] says:

Has anybody experimented with taping up the back with Push?

www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=448530016897&set=a.44...
55 months ago (permalink)

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

we have some images taped but since we only shot them yesterday it's too early to predict if it'll have an effect.
Originally posted 55 months ago. (permalink)
Polapremium edited this topic 55 months ago.

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yourfavorite says:

Anne, I think a peeling video would be a great addition to TIP's vimeo :D
54 months ago (permalink)

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inkiworld says:

Yeah! let Frank work his magic on a new tutorial
54 months ago (permalink)

the_Craigen [deleted] says:

Just don't let Charles in on it.
54 months ago (permalink)

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

the problem with making a peeling video is that we've discovered it's tricky to get a smooth peel unless you peel almost immediately. we tried peeling an image taken 2 weeks ago and it tore.

we won't stop testing until we come up with a good solution!
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
anniebee (a group admin) edited this topic 54 months ago.

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abdukted1456 says:

having the dial set all the way to lighten seems to be a must.

I took two shots in the normal position (full sun) and they had nice blues and purples but really low contrast and underexposed.

the third one, I remembered to "PUSH" it and it came out AWESOME.

no "auto color" in photoshop, this is how it looks!!!

 by abdukted1456


I tried to peel one of the underexposed ones, and it was a hour or two later, the whole thing tore. Not sure if I want to risk peeling, might try immediately after development...

so far it is a nice improvement from the FF. me likey.

=)
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
abdukted1456 edited this topic 54 months ago.

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The Gentleman Amateur says:

I'm really struggling with peeling the PUSH film. I haven't tried the 15 minutes thing, because so far I've been shooting outdoors and it isn't really practical to peel in those conditions! But I've peeled about 2 hours on from shooting, and it's a total disaster - the image gets torn to pieces.

Mind you, I am a complete klutz with practical things like this, so maybe it's just me....
54 months ago (permalink)

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abdukted1456 says:

Not just you, GA, the emulsion is super sticky, it was like glue and it took a few minutes in hot water to get it all off my fingers.
54 months ago (permalink)

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

I've ruined at least 4 shots trying to peel them. I really think the only time to peel is no more than 10/15 minutes after shooting the image OR after they're completely dry (2 weeks in the fridge?)
54 months ago (permalink)

rommel© [deleted] says:

I did some tests last night to peel the PX70.

I peeled mine around 7 minutes, and it peeled smoothly but there's a bit of white stuff

Also getting good color on tungsten light, particularly fluorescent.

I haven't tried it yet, but I'll be shooting outdoor with Rosco 3304 green filter over the lens to offset the magenta tone.
54 months ago (permalink)

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:

I think it's shaping up that if you're nervous about peeling, the safest thing to do is put the shots in the freezer.

I've tried peeling at like a half hour mark and there abouts and it does not work.

As for shooting the film, it is becoming apparent that the film is fairly sensitive to subtle color temperature differences.

From and co, it seems that the best colors are under tungsten light which counters the cool blue in the film, and then fluorescents which have green in them which, especially in white highlights, counters the magenta shift when the film is over exposed.

So anyone shooting in a tungsten fluorescent setting should get really really nice colors.

One could also try shooting with green and warming filters, I've personally tried up to 1/4 plus green, didn't really do much, I'm guessing like a 1/2 plus green and an 85 filter with the dial all the way white might get some crazy amazing shots outside.

Images to come. -f
54 months ago (permalink)

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

fluorescent light test:

 by Polapremium

54 months ago (permalink)

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

Jon Campolo who works with us in NYC took the shots below using a flashbar and the results are fantastic.

left image L/D wheel on neutral (central) + flash (flashbar)
right image L/D wheel turned all the way to light + flash (flashbar)

PX70 PUSH flash test by Polapremium


left image L/D wheel on neutral (central) + flash (flashbar)
central image L/D wheel turned 1 tick towards light + flash (flashbar)
right image L/D wheel turned all the way to light + flash (flashbar)
PX70 PUSH flash test by Polapremium

54 months ago (permalink)

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yourfavorite says:

Loving the Flourescent Light Results. We have a couple flo bulbs on cords that I could potentially walk around with as a mobile light source assuming I had a long extension cord. I think I'll play with that a bit. Such great contrast!

Now I just need to finish the PX70FF that's in my SX70 so I can start shooting the PUSH.
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
yourfavorite edited this topic 54 months ago.

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:

Some results from in GCT. These aren't the most accurate scans since I was using photoshop instead of aperture which I'm far more familiar with to make them look as faithful as possible, but they are fairly close. Just thought you might enjoy.

Namely with the ticket counter shot, you can see how two different types of bulbs that are both tungsten, and look nearly the same by eye, are totally different on the film

GCTPUSH by f.LOVE PHOTO

Vader takes Metro North by f.LOVE PHOTO

GCTcounter by f.LOVE PHOTO

Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
f.LOVE PHOTO (a group admin) edited this topic 54 months ago.

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Julian suarez2010 says:

They excuse my ignorance but I do not understand the one of the wheel, watching front the camera I have to do the dark part of the wheel or the white, to give much light him.
thanks.
54 months ago (permalink)

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• g. • says:

you see more of the dark side of the wheel = your pictures will be more dark.
you see more of the bright side of the wheel = your pictures will be more bright.
54 months ago (permalink)

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maxhammad says:

Do you peel this just like fade to black?
54 months ago (permalink)

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becmojo says:

Yeah... when you peel immediately afterwards then it sticks to the front and not the negative? I have not tried this yet.
54 months ago (permalink)

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j berd 45 says:

How long does it take to go blue?
54 months ago (permalink)

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Shelly Tee is a group administrator Shelly Tee says:

seems like it?
54 months ago (permalink)

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///Brian Henry says:

has anyone tried baking them?
I had mine sit in front of a heater to 'bake' the moisture out of them.
Wonder if I cooked it long enough....
54 months ago (permalink)

rommel© [deleted] says:

and
Any update in regards to taping the back.
54 months ago (permalink)

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

@rommel© the taped images in the office haven't shifted (yet) - we took them on Tuesday and Wednesday so it hasn't been that long.

@brian they baked images at the factory but it's not a really practical solution for most people. if you try baking your images please let us know what happens (please don't start a fire tho!)
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
Polapremium edited this topic 54 months ago.

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Instant Integral says:

I tried freezing mine to stop crystals and speckles for a week but that didnt work at all
54 months ago (permalink)

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

excellent peeling guide created by Lexi, our webmeister:

www.polanoid.net/jump/?to=pictures&uid=1&pid=442726

UPDATED TO INCLUDE "HEATING" TECHNIQUE AND THE FAILURE THEREOF
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
Polapremium edited this topic 54 months ago.

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SuperErnie says:

My experience after one pack of PUSH
- Nice? Sure. Easy ride? No.
- Film takes longer then 4 minutes to develop. Impossible advises 'at least 4 minutes' but that doesn't seem to be long enough.
- Red and yellow turn out so-so, blue very weak
- Expiration date on the box says 10/10 ??
- I did NOT yet peel them. Waiting for them to turn a little more blue, I gues...

Example of dissapearing color blue (The sign between the rails is blue.) Wheel turned all white with bright sunlight.

Hilversum train station #TestingPush! by SuperErnie


This is my favorite one from the first pack:
Rotterdam: lunch @ Bazar #TestingPush! by SuperErnie

Inside, next to a very large window. Wheel all white.
Red and yellow: not bad. Blue (the table is painted bright blue) very week.
It's a little out of focus, shot out of hand in somewhat low light situation.
54 months ago (permalink)

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:



Not an expiration date.

All dating on Impossible packaging are production dates, not expiration.

Since Polaroid's expiration dates were fairly arbitrary since it's quite clear the film is still good well past said expiration, and it was more a way for Polaroid to gauge and keep fresh product on the market.

Impossible knows people like using expired film since it can lead to interesting effects, this also lets you know exactly when the film was made, while an expiration date is a false idea of when you shouldn't use the film anymore.

The color spectrum you'll experience will vary greatly between color temperature of light and level of exposure, the film has blue.
54 months ago (permalink)

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SuperErnie says:

OK thanks. I'll be looking for a blue-producing kind of light ;-)
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
SuperErnie edited this topic 54 months ago.

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:

Fluorescents and Tungsten seem to produce the best colors....ie adding orange/warmth and green
54 months ago (permalink)

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Baron von Beerfest says:

I heated some prints with a candle flame to try and get more of the warmer colors and they developed some interesting cracks.
54 months ago (permalink)

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Baron von Beerfest says:

BTW, none of my macro shots worked. Either my flash is faulty [which it might well be], or it doesn't seem to be quite enough. Shots with flash on its own [or even a bright torch simulating effects of flash] all came out underexposed. So I tried to provide some additional lighting with a torch as well as using the flash, and they came out overexposed. I even tried the "light painting" trick and still couldn't get a good balance of colors and contrast. Any ideas? For other non-macro shots I have been able to achieve the desired effects by manipulating temperature and lighting conditions.
54 months ago (permalink)

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:

In an SX-70, focus is tied to exposure in two ways.

1. When focusing on a closer object, the camera sets you to an f8 (maximum aperture) and correct shutter speed so as to give you the minimal DoF for a nice shallow focus portrait. When focusing deeper, it sets you to a f16 or f22 to try an maximize depth assuming you're taking a landscape or group shot and want all things in focus. Given this doesn't directly affect exposure, but sometimes it helps to know this.

2. When using a flash unit, the camera again thinks about focus distance when making the exposure. Here though the opposite happens. The camera knows how much light a flashbar is supposed to output, and it therefore goes off that for the exposure. Since the flashbar is on the camera, it knows that if you're focusing to something closer, the flash will be more intense on a closer object, and therefore will reduce exposure when focusing on closer objects, while it will increase for objects further away.

Now this is all relative in the sense that the camera will do these things light permitting, so when shooting things focused further away in low light, it won't throw you a f16 or f22 because it rather give you a faster shutter speed to reduce motion blur, and if using flash in bright daylight, it will factor this in as well, but in lower light the flash will over power anything else, and it goes off that then.

If you're using a flash unit with macro, you may have to take this into consideration for the proper amount of over exposure with the push film. Also consider how much light may actually be hitting the front of the camera as this may alter how it reads the scene. If disproportionate light is hitting the front of the camera, it may under expose a shot since it's a reflective meter.

Oh, and when I said warmth, I didn't mean physical warmth, just warm light, in case that's how you read it. I haven't tried playing with different temps with the film.
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
f.LOVE PHOTO (a group admin) edited this topic 54 months ago.

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Baron von Beerfest says:

Hi Frank, thanks very much for the response. Yes, I understand how the camera works in terms of aperture and shutter speed. I just wasn't sure whether the flash was smart enough to compensate for macro. From what you said, it sounds like it should know. I guess perhaps my flash unit might be defective then.

Does the lighten/darken wheel have any effect when using a flash unit?
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

Wow I didn't know how it worked thanks a lot.

And interested see about this light/dark wheel combined with flash as (if my film comes in) I may be taking shots this weekend using flash....

I want to try peeling a photo this weekend....

vvvv...doh i knew that i read that the other day in this same thread haha. fail on my part but thanks for the clarification and explanation earlier.
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
αppletree edited this topic 54 months ago.

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:



the L/D wheel does work when using flash

www.impossibleproject.info/a-flash-of-color
54 months ago (permalink)

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

Just heard from a couple of photographers working with us on a project that shooting in tungsten light is producing gorgeous images.
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

So I guess I will pop the question....everyone keeps mentioning tungsten lighting. Is this light produced from a flash of some sorts or a lamp with a tungsten bulb that users are carrying around?

Maybe pointing me in the right direction as tungsten lighting is something new to me.

As always thanks for the insight and help. And my film came in today so will definitely use some this weekend.
54 months ago (permalink)

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:



Tungsten light is less an accurate term now a days since it doesn't necessarily mean actual tungsten is involved to produce the color.

The main point to take away from this is that by Tungsten light we mean the color temperature of the light. Light color is measured in Kelvin, the lower the number the warmer the light (orange), the higher the number the cooler the light (blue). Typically tungsten light bulbs measure around 3200K, while typical daylight is 5600K. Candle light would be yet lower, on an overcast day the temp will be higher.

You purchase any lights, even the ones for your home, you'll notice there's a color temp on it. Most color films are daylight balanced unless specified as Tungsten, typically with a T next to the emulsion number. This is why film will often look orange when taken inside, or Tungsten balanced film would look very blue shot outside.

Ways around this?

If you're lighting your subject, get tungsten balanced bulbs, or simply get CTO (Color Temperature Orange) gels for daylight balanced lights. Full CTO corrects 5600 to 3200, there are also fractional gels (1/8, 1/4, 1/2).

If you're not lighting your subject, filters will do the same effect via covering your lens with the gel. Typically the appropriate filter here would be an 85 (same color shift as CTO). Dealing with an S-70 however, it could just be easier to tape a gel swatch to the front of your camera. Doing this you can get a sample kit for lighting and get enough gel to put over your lens, CTO as well as some plus green to negate some of the magenta in PUSH.
54 months ago (permalink)

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snacky. says:

what i am having a hard time figuring out now after reading this is if the film does well in tungsten balanced (as people are saying), how come it doesn't turn all blue in daylight (like tungsten film would). i would never think to use an 85 filter on this film because the pictures are already so warm. others have suggested a green filter to balance the magenta tones.

has anyone tried using a warming 85 filter in daylight?
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

Wow I wish I understood all of that but it did help a lot. Thanks and so when shooting this film I will try using a filter in front of my lens and see how it works.

This isn't the thread to ask anymore questions but I will report back after I shoot my first pack this weekend. Will most likely just end up using a flash bar and the light/dark wheel. May throw a colored filter in front of the lens to see the affect. I think I have a yellow/red/orange but doubt I have a blue or green.

Anyway thanks again for the explanation.

Austin

ps: Does the film completely fade to blue (initially I did not think it did but read a somewhere that it would)? If so how long approximately? The reason I ask because if I took pictures Saturday and did not scan until Sunday night or Monday would that be a problem?

vvvvvvv....yay thanks
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
αppletree edited this topic 54 months ago.

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

photos I took last weekend (and left on my desk) have just started to turn slightly blue in one corner so you have time.
54 months ago (permalink)

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ampelgrun says:

wow, my photos taken last saturday in bright sun light, shifted to magenta in about two hours...that was really unexpected and fast.
today I took another one and subsequently freezed it. let's see how it turns out!
54 months ago (permalink)

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demetri parides says:

px 70 push - daylight

px 70 push - daylight


took these today in direct sunlight wheel set all the way to light...didnt scan until 10hrs later
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
demetri parides edited this topic 54 months ago.

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Rhett Redelings says:

When it's said that it turns completely blue, is there any image left?
54 months ago (permalink)

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:

www.flickr.com/photos/rhettredelings/]
Yes, if you scan your shot, then crank the blue all the way up....that should give you an idea of what it might look like if it shifts like my test film did.

Some I've seen more 'tint' a little blue, and even then not wholly
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

hmm thanks everyone for the pictures and advice. i might freeze some just to do halve and halve. thanks again

austin
54 months ago (permalink)

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Rhett Redelings says:

Cool, thanks!
54 months ago (permalink)

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///Brian Henry says:

I'm still testing a theory on what (contributes) to the shift. Something semi-obvious that I haven't heard anyone else mention.

Will report back in a couple weeks with details if it works....
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
///Brian Henry edited this topic 54 months ago.

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

if anyone can figure it out it's you. I eagerly await your findings.
54 months ago (permalink)

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

we're trying to figure one out - that's the whole point of this thread.
54 months ago (permalink)

SMeivogel [deleted] says:

I know... i love this stuff! I have been peeling about 20 minutes after each shot. It starts off well, then I loose it during the 2nd half of the peel. Maybe I'm peeling it too fast.
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
SMeivogel edited this topic 54 months ago.

SMeivogel [deleted] says:

Here's my first shot, over 24 hours ago. I have not done anything yet, except putting it in the fridge overnight.
[https://www.flickr.com/photos/easywindstudio/5192142645/]
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
SMeivogel edited this topic 54 months ago.

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f.LOVE PHOTO is a group administrator f.LOVE PHOTO says:



Make it the freezer.

I'm finding ones I put in the fridge for a few days and then have taped since are doing fine.

So I'm thinking

Freeze
OR
Tape

OR

Freeze THEN Tape

OR

Freeze THEN Peel

OR

Peel within the first 10 minutes or so NOT after that unless it's a long time after.

But don't Freeze AND TAPE, I heard some have gotten bubbles
54 months ago (permalink)

SMeivogel [deleted] says:

electrical tape on the back?
54 months ago (permalink)

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Instant Integral says:

I froze uv and got bubbles without taping so im not doing that again.

Also I used regular scotch tape.
54 months ago (permalink)

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

My most unchanged UV+ shot was gafer's taped on the back and frozen.
54 months ago (permalink)

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lawatt says:

so here's a perhaps-dumb question -- keep them in the freezer for how long?
54 months ago (permalink)

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Instant Integral says:

Until the photo is stiff. The photo will curve a little and be a little more harder.
54 months ago (permalink)

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• g. • says:

hooray for perhaps-dumb questions!
here's another one: what does taping the back do?
54 months ago (permalink)

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

supposedly it makes the film dry faster thus preventing crystals and color shifts. I don't think it works as well with PUSH but it does with the silvershade film.
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

Where do you tape it at? And I will post my shots tonight as I took three so far with push. all three turned out better than any of the UV stuff I have taken (which was my first introduction to impossible). Was thoroughly impressed and excited at the results!

Went to a concert, went drink too much, slept for two hours, woke up at five and drove three hours for 9AM meeting, so no time to scan yet. Will scan (only scan for now haha) before my much needed nap this afternoon lol. I swear I am the only one in my conservative industry who is so crazy!

Also suggestions for first time peeler? Peel at 10 minutes after taking out of my crown bag I shoot the shots in or peel after freezer for idk how long?
54 months ago (permalink)

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ampelgrun says:

I successfully peeled my first PUSH after 48h in the freezer at -16ºC. It didn't break. However, besides the picture wasn't the best, after peeling a white paste rested on the backside making the peeled picture nearly impossible to recognize. Will keep on trying.
54 months ago (permalink)

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• g. • says:

(but how? or why?)
54 months ago (permalink)

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anniebee is a group administrator anniebee says:

I wish I knew
54 months ago (permalink)

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yourfavorite says:

Id just like to add that I've been putting my push shots in the freezer each night when I get home and so far none of them have shifted. I hope to scan them after thanksgiving.
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

So I was wondering earlier, best suggestion to peel 10 minutes after taking/developing or put in freezer for a day or so and try?

I have never peel so just a little nervous and want to have the best shot at my attempts
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
αppletree edited this topic 54 months ago.

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The Gentleman Amateur says:

I would definitely suggest doing your first peels with shots that didn't work out! It would be a shame to destroy a good shot when it's so hard to do it well.... I still haven't got the hang of it, myself....

Having said that: I've found that storing them in the fridge (as suggested on the Impossible site) definitely slows the blueshifting a lot!
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
The Gentleman Amateur edited this topic 54 months ago.

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αppletree says:

Thanks for the advice. I assume it cant be completely ruined shots (ones that didnt go through the rollers completely because the emulsion did not spread)???

And here was my first PUSH! shot as I said I would post

and you say, "impossible" by αppletree


was at the red light on my bike and decided to make an evasive action to reach the gas station this guy was at (was in my first wreck earlier that day so yeah haha)
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
αppletree edited this topic 54 months ago.

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The Gentleman Amateur says:

Well, no, not completely ruined shots of course - just ones you don't care about!
54 months ago (permalink)

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abdukted1456 says:

I might have said this already, but my shots are just getting more magenta, no blue shift yet. They are just sitting on a tabletop in my office.
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

, ahh ok thanks and sorry super new to peeling and polaroids in general.

, I think all of mine so far have blue tones really quickly. That picture above was scanned about 30ish hours after taking the picture. It seemed they had the blue tones once developed and I do not remember them turning more blue then they already were. I have an indoor shot that even has a lot of blue in it (low lighting thus the focus is a tad shaky but still blue)
54 months ago (permalink)

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///Brian Henry says:

Has anyone started noticing changes in their Polas?

I'm not seeing any change. (yet)
54 months ago (permalink)

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Tim_Arai says:

I checked and so far at 48 hours, no blue shift though all of my shots came out and still has a slight magenta tint. I'm in Japan on business so I won't be able to scan for a while until I get home. We'll see how they look then.

Peeling has been a disaster for me so far...I guess I just suck :(
54 months ago (permalink)

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Baron von Beerfest says:

None of mine has changed whether left out or in the freezer.
54 months ago (permalink)

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The Gentleman Amateur says:

Some of the earliest ones I shot (couple of weeks ago now) have definitely shifted towards blue, especially one that I've kept in a warm room. Not so noticeable on ones that have been kept in a cold room, or a fridge.
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
The Gentleman Amateur edited this topic 54 months ago.

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Tom Tao says:

Hi guys,

Just got myself a few packs of the Push films, I wanna know everything thoroughly before taking any shot. After reading the whole discussion from its very start, I assume that

- Peeling: Either peel your picture immediately after 10 minutes or after 48 hours of storing them in the freezer. But how are you supposed to peel it? (Sorry if that question sounds dumb as I don't know how it looks like and I have never shot any peeling picture before)

- After peeling it, the shot is to be stored in a fridge at a cool temperature to prevent color shift and then you will tape it up at the back to stop moisture/air from invading? But will it stop the color shift permanently or it actually just only slows the process down?

Please correct me if I have got something wrong here. We all know that those films are precious and certainly none of us would wanna take a risk taking shots without adequate information about it.
54 months ago (permalink)

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ampelgrun says:

I have had some interesting results. From the same pack, three pictures turned magenta, all these were shot in daylight, sunny day. Freezed for one week.

The rest were for indoor shootings, tungsten light.
Two of them turned out good, not super good but good. No magenta shift after two weeks, no freezer at any time.
Other two stayed with the blue-shield paste for over one day, they just didn't develop really well and now one week after pictures are more white than colored or magenta.

So far, shooting in daylight shifts magenta whether you freeze or not, shooting in tungsten light magenta shift was not observed.
54 months ago (permalink)

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vtayeh says:

So, I'm not having such awesome results with the PUSH film... I've used one pack and almost all the shots outdoors came out with this yellow tint. The shots were taken in sunny conditions (with the light/darken wheel in the lighten direction) but it seems to be overexposing, has anyone else have these issues?

Indoors, next to a sunny window, I get really high contrast photos, again, with the yellow tint but the rest of the shot is dark... Any suggestions?
54 months ago (permalink)

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Tio Remus says:

Do any of you (Appletree,PhotoErnie,Scott Meivogel...) who shows photos on this debate shielded the photo when ejected?

I'm having real problems with light although I eject the photos into a box;
When I take the box out to remove the photo completely from the camera it got blurred. It's frustating.

Thanks
54 months ago (permalink)

M. Stevens [deleted] says:

So..... any updates on taping the backs?
54 months ago (permalink)

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αppletree says:

, what do you mean blurred?

I will give a quick update. I have not peeled yet but will attempt tomorrow night I think. I have taken about 6 total photos with PUSH. My ones taken last Sunday (about 8 days ago) have recently (last day or two I noticed them) started getting blue splotches all over the film. Not dots but large washed out splotches that are definitely bluish tint.

I typically shoot into a bag but have now lost a total of about 5 shots (through 3ish packs of impossible film) so I am going to start shielding with a large black card thingy.

And to answer your question yes I have shielded all photos taken thus far and left in dark bag for plenty of time always greater than 5-10mins.

My most recent three pictures were taken with a flashbar and all three have about a quarter inch line at the bottom of the picture. I thought at first it was the edge of the bag in the way of the lens. It happened on the next picture again. Then I used a card last night and it happened again! So not sure if its all of a sudden the film or somehow the flashbar...

I will post a picture of the blueness and the odd bar this afternoon.

So far though still love this stuff, all pictures have been better than 99% of the two boxes I shot of 600UV.
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
αppletree edited this topic 54 months ago.

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Tio Remus says:

By blurred I meant damaged by light.

I know that push films has to be protected from light when ejected but when I use the box to protect the photo I need some space to access in order to be able to take the photo out of the camera completely.

That's why I'm interested on the way you people shield the photos.

How do you use that bag?
54 months ago (permalink)

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abdukted1456 says:

re: shielding...
I started using a bag made from a taped up black garbage bag, and then I graduated to this:
www.flickr.com/photos/abdukted1456/5191701583/
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
abdukted1456 edited this topic 54 months ago.

SMeivogel [deleted] says:

Tio,
take 2 darkslides... cut one in half. then tape the two halves on both sides of the uncut darkslide. that should give you ample protection from the light. let us know how it is going!
54 months ago (permalink)

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george a. barnett says:

ive just been shooting my images, letting them lay face down for about 8 minutes, look at it, smile, scan it with the frame still on it, then how annie said just peel it right after the scan to get the perfect color that im satisfied with. check out my shots thus far and tell me what you think!!! love you TIP!



p.s. the long impossible card that comes in the mail with your film makes a great front piece for your film expose catcher, fixs perfectly for any sx-70! try it out!





[https://www.flickr.com/photos/georgepolaroid/5227643464/]
Originally posted 54 months ago. (permalink)
george a. barnett edited this topic 54 months ago.

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Tom Tao says:

I don't even know how to peel.. does anyone have a tutorial on video format please?
50 months ago (permalink)

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Tom Tao says:

and how do you decide which layer the image will lay on? I did try peeling without much success and my pictures would always stay on the transparent layer, not to mention about the stickiness and all that.. I always ended up destroying those photos which I had kept for at least a month
50 months ago (permalink)

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Joep Polaroid Photography is a group moderator Joep Polaroid Photography says:

Hello Impossible project,

this my my tecnique:

I just did the expirement with the heat bath. this is how i did it:

1: set the lighten darken wheel completely to lighten.
2: i added a dark green filter over the lens, to cut down the magneta tone, it worked! ( you also should tape the green filter HALF! over the lighten/darken cell.)
3: focus, shoot the picture on a tripod.
4: warm a hot bath for the picture. the right temperature is between 40/45 celcius.
5: tape also a dark slide in the front of the camera, to block light from the film.
6: put the photo WITH! the dark slide in the warm bath.
7: wait 2 minutes! ( not longer than 2,5, it will het very orange when you leave it in to long! )
8: get out the picture, and leave it on a flat surface for about 7/8 minutes.
9: turn over the picture, and enjoy your better PX-70 Push! REALISTIC COLOR! picture.

i hope this helps impossible with your further expirements and upcoming editions of SX-70 film! can't wait for it to come out!

maybe you should add green filters to the film packs, it really works well! it cut's down the magneta color, and adds green to natural light to it. it just sell green filters, and put it on your website!

here are some samples:

{ www.flickr.com/photos/joepsx-70-freak/5382364468/in/photo... }

{ www.flickr.com/photos/joepsx-70-freak/5380825328/in/photo... }

{ www.flickr.com/photos/joepsx-70-freak/5357137660/in/photo... }

{ www.flickr.com/photos/joepsx-70-freak/5350396326/in/photo... }

{ www.flickr.com/photos/joepsx-70-freak/5335196925/in/photo... }

hope this helps!
Originally posted 50 months ago. (permalink)
Joep Polaroid Photography edited this topic 50 months ago.

PC - Analogue Photography [deleted] says:

[https://www.flickr.com/photos/pc-photography/5527511089/]
I heated the film inside the cold clip right next to the hot lights in a studio.
I under-exposed(halfway), normally exposed, and over-exposed(halfway).
This one is a normal exposed shot that was heated in its development.
[https://www.flickr.com/photos/pc-photography/5527446107/in/set-72157625274385107/]
50 months ago (permalink)

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Electric Fantastic says:

Has anyone tried fixer to stop the image from developing further? I'm not sure if this is even possible but every single image I've ever taken with impossible film has completely washed out or bubbled over no matter which methods I used (freezing, peeling, upright storage, cutting the chemical pockets etc). Any suggestions are very much appreciated!
44 months ago (permalink)

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Paula Mussa says:

after all those consideration in order to take a really good photo, do I have to shield it after it come out from the camera??

I m not sure about that
41 months ago (permalink)

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Polapremium is a group administrator Polapremium says:

ALL our film needs to be shielded.
41 months ago (permalink)

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