Studio Gentry 4:04am, 25 November 2009
Given there are 700+ photographers on here, I figure someone may know the answer to this question....

I just got myself a D90. :-) However, while doing a test shoot with my strobe (fired via Alien Bee CyberSync system) I noticed the bottom of the pictures were a fuzzy black. Obviously this was due to the shutter.

I was in full Manual mode, so I played around with f/stop and speeds. Turns out that anything over 1/200 caused this blackness. The faster the speed the more blackness on the picture, thus confirming a shutter issue.

I figure that since my camera is brand new there is a some factory setting I need to turn off (or on), but I don't which. it would suck if it turns out that my new camera was defective.

Any ideas?
admin
ShutterCraze (NUEL) Posted 9 years ago. Edited by ShutterCraze (NUEL) (admin) 9 years ago
Because:

Flash Sync Speed is Up to 1/200.

from your camera"s spec. page:

www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Digital-SLR/2544...

Congrats and enjoy your new gear!
Studio Gentry 9 years ago
Figured it was the sync speed. Next question...

How do I make it go away? Or can it?

There has to be a way. Otherwise, how do you shoot fill flash in the noon day sun?

This thing must be related to the Hal9000. "I can't let you do that, Dave" :-)
admin
ShutterCraze (NUEL) Posted 9 years ago. Edited by ShutterCraze (NUEL) (admin) 9 years ago
Couple things I consider in no particular order:

1) if possible- stop down your aperture to use longer shutter speeds.
2) if possible- use a lower iso.
3) if possible- shoot in shade.
4) when trying to overpower ambient- carry a few high quality (I prefer B+W on my Canon glass) neutral density filters. I carry a 1-stop and 2-stop.
5) if possible- wait a few hours to shoot.
Studio Gentry 9 years ago
My issue is more with in studio strobe use. I just mentioned fill flash outdoors because the sun is what high-speed sync was made for.

For indoors I guess I'll just have to lower my strobe power levels and f/stops. Granted, I have been using my strobe at full or 1/2 power less than six feet away from my subjects. They could probably use a reduction.

However, it would be nice if my tool would just do my bidding. :-)
admin
ShutterCraze (NUEL) Posted 9 years ago. Edited by ShutterCraze (NUEL) (admin) 9 years ago
Dude you left me swing at fastballs, well I think you answered your own questions! Flash sync speed becomes an issue when trying to overpower/balance bright ambient light whether it's outdoors or semi-covered indoors. But for studio work it should be cake, lower your power or move your lights farther away from your subject.

Good Luck!
Studio Gentry 9 years ago
For being a fastball, you still managed to hit a standing double... if not a triple.

I guess I'm also dealing with "upgrade shock". Too many bells and whistles. Mongo no understand.

Thank you for your help.
Jonathan K Sakkos Posted 9 years ago. Edited by Jonathan K Sakkos (member) 9 years ago
Nikon Flashes, i.e. SB -600, 800, and 900, can use a high speed sync mode called FP Sync (Focal Plane) that enables you to shoot with very high shutter speeds. It makes the flash fire continuously while the shutter is open. Here's some more info: nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/03/10-auto-fp-hi...

Unfortunately, it only works on Nikon flashes, as I stated above, so it won't really help you unless you have some.

You seem to have answered your own question. If your AB still seems to be giving you too much power, try lowering your ISO all the way. That will give you a little more control.

I agree. So many bells an whistles on this camera. Took me months and months to really get the hang of it, and I still find something new occasionally. Ken Rockwell has a great guide to the D90 www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d90.htm IMO, the factory manual sucks and won't help much.
WJPpdx 9 years ago
Just turn your AB down and or use a smaller aperture and lower iso and move the light further away (can lower the quality of light though). If you still need less light you can add more layers of diffusion as each layer of diffusion will reduce light output.

Unless you are using FP high speed sinc, 1/200 is as fast as you can go. If you have low ambient light in your studio you can go 1/200 and the camera will hardly register the ambient light resulting in the flash duration becoming the "shutter speed" which is 1/3300 at full power and 1/1650 at 1/32nd power.
Groups Beta