Flash Question

Randall Cottrell 4:53am, 28 January 2008
alright...i've been reading a lot on strobist and other sites about on/off camera flash and i'm starting to understand a bit

i do have a question i just can't seem to get figured out though...

in dumbed down terms, what's the difference between the sb 24,26,28's and the sb 600, 800's? what makes the latter sooo much more expensive? the the 600, 800's that much better flashes than the 24, 26, 28's? or is it simply the fact that they are newer?

i'm interested in picking up a 600...but i don't know if it's really worth the $200 when i can pick up a 24 for under $100.

i know that was more than i question...

Shawn Thompson - Lake Superior Photographer Posted 11 years ago. Edited by Shawn Thompson - Lake Superior Photographer (admin) 11 years ago
The 800 is just the boss of speedlights, it has and does just about everything.
The 600 does not have a PC Synch port and is not compatible with pocket wizards.
It would work with poverty wizards though.

For off camera flash, save your money and get one or two of the speedlights that you listed.

I don't think that TTL metering will work on DSLR's with the 24,26, 28, etc.... If you want to use the flash on-camera with automatic settings, get a 600 or 800.

I am new to this, but from what I have read, i believe the above to be correct.
maxcaven 11 years ago
The sb-600 is fully compatible with a pocket wizard, just need the addition of a 5 dollar hot shoe adapter, or a pc connection hack. Heck you can even take electrical tape and put a pc cord with just the wire on the right contact of the hotshoe to fire it, I've seen that on strobist more than once. Theres no real need to get a 600 or an 800 for off camera flash though, you use manual mode anyways. The only advantage really to people for the newer strobes is ttl and Nikon cls (which is there built in wireless flash). Now if you would want to use cls instead of say a poverty wizard or pocket wizard then I would go with the newer ones. I however wouldn't recommend it, it's not as reliable as pocket wizards and it's a lot more exspensive than using poverty wizards (cactus V2's or similar) or even a pocket wizard.

So to sum up ha, If your planing on doing mostly off camera flash, your going to be using manual mode and don't really need ttl flash metering, you better off taking that money that you would be buying a sb800 or 600 and buying a few older nikon strobes instead. Or even the vitars, or sunpacks. For the old nikons I would also recomend the sb-26 it has a super slave mode bulit in so you can use other strobes flashes to trigger it off without more pocket/poverty wizard recivers. Ends up being really cheap, which is a good thing.

That being said if you have the mula to drop on a 800 or 600 by all means, there nice flashes and there new so you know you have the warranty and what not.

Keep reading strobist, best resource on the net, and not just lighting 101 and 102, (My favorite lesson being mixing ambient sunsets and fill flash) check the flickr group, a lot of nice people whiling to help.
Randall Cottrell Posted 11 years ago. Edited by Randall Cottrell (moderator) 11 years ago
so if i'm using a 26 on camera i'll have to use manual settings...which i'd probably do anyway? even if i had a 600?

that's what i've gathered so far...and sure the 600, 800's are nice...they're not really worth the extra money just for on camera auto settings and cls? but if i'm made of money [ha! nope] my best bet would be a 26...
maxcaven 11 years ago
On camera is a different story but yes if you used an 26 on cam it would be in full manual mode.

But the downright cheapest most DIY way to get off camera light would be get an sb 26 or an different strobe with a slave function, and use your d80's pop up flash to trigger the other flash off camera. Maybe use some tinfoil to make the popup not affect the picture and to only hit the slave sensor on the off camera strobe.

Also your best bet would be any of the old sb's. I have a 25 and 24, there all great, it's just that the 24s and 25s don't have a slave function built in, you would need either a wizard or a small optical slave for the pc conection or hot shoe. The most common one out there is called a 'peanut'.
Drew C 11 years ago
sb-xx's work just fine on camera in whats called auto mode... not TTL...
you dial in your ISO range, and F-stop, and theres a digital readout of what distance you can fire from, its actually pretty efficient... i have 3- sb-28's (one of them "dx") and sold my sb-600 and will be buying a sb-800 next... i got the sb-28's for the pc-sync. but they still work nicely on my d200 in "A" mode. (or manual)

sb-26's are nice cause of the su-4 mode built in (optical slave) and can be fired by strobe detection... (which can also be a pain)
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