Discussions (1313)

Dropping the keel

view profile

Daddsie says:

The problems I have had with the keel joint on Rumrunner I have decided to drop the keel off.

Sounds quite easy, famous last words!

Whip off keel bolt nuts, with a sabre saw cut along joint, with keel in a purpose made cradle lift boat. Grit blast joint, fill with Sikka flex tighten back up, cut off excess, anti foul, then go sailing after dinner.

Or do you guys know better?
9:38AM, 11 March 2010 PDT (permalink)

busy home [deleted] says:

Whip off nuts!!!!!! Your joking!
Impact HEX socket from Halfords
Air chisel on ondoo side ?
Hope and pray (and sweat)
116 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

rothwell_neil says:

Brave man, rusty old bolts never fun. Why not miss out the whipping off of nuts and just go for the sabre saw and grit blast followed by re-sika using a gun with extra thin nozzle to get to bottom of prepared cut?
116 months ago (permalink)

busy home [deleted] says:

How would you get the threaded bar out of the keel?
116 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Super Snoopy 050 says:

Take plenty of photos. Super Snoopy is 2 boats younger than Rumrunner, so if you need to do it, I may have to next year - although the rust stain on the keel joint of Super Snoopy doesn't seem as bad. Must be all of that racing malarkey that you do in the deep south!
116 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Skykomish E29 says:

Yes I gave up the idea of changing Aeolus' when I bent the extension bar of my socket set, and this was after a week of soaking in WD40, as it happened a light abrading brought back shiny metal on nut and bolt, so I treated and painted them in the end!
Good Luck!! I would imagine that the Keel of a 9m will be no fun to take off, though I can see your motives, if you are having problems with the keel joint what damage is going on inside????? The real worry would be the sudden "give" as the stud shears then you ARE committed!
be interesting to see some pictures of the job
116 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Daddsie says:

I am using an air wrench that can exert a torque of 300 psi, so hopefully the whipping off bit will just be that.

Every year I have cleaned up the thread and nuts so they are in good order. Hopefully some paint remover and 3 in 1 should be all I need.
116 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Eclipse 1 says:

Did this job on Eclipse before I first launched her. She was on the hard; lowered onto wooden blocks beneath the keels, with a bit of jacking, removed the chocks from the central keel, with intention of unscrewing the bolts out of said keel, and as a result lowering it. Ended up tack welding nuts onto the studs inside the cabin, then using a stonking great bar on a socket to free it. Sikaflex however kept the keel well stuck to the hull, which took a lot of levering off. Eventually it freed, and keel lowered as planned, although it was a brutal job! Keel was lowered by about 6 inches, and at least one bolt left in situ to keep things lined up and upright. Finally, nuts tightened up, and excess studding cut off with angle grinder before finally tightening up with a socket. I used a BIG socket set !
116 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

NormanKlipspringer is a group administrator NormanKlipspringer says:

Have you tread Geoff Mark's account of his exploits with keel removal.
Follow the links on the page below below:
www.achillesyachts.co.uk/page29.html
We have also had previous discusions on keel bolts. Follow the links on the page below:
www.achillesyachts.co.uk/page6.html
I managed to get the nuts off the studs but could not see how to remove the studs without welding a nut as suggested above. At this point I gave up. What I could see looked ok and my surveyor was content.
If you haven't seen it then have a look at Chris Butler's article:
www.achillesyachts.co.uk/page28.html
Originally posted 116 months ago. (permalink)
NormanKlipspringer (a group admin) edited this topic 116 months ago.

view photostream

Daddsie says:

Thanks Norman, useful article. We have so far spread/split three heavy duty box spanners to undo four nuts so far.

Another 5 minutes job.................... Not!
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Andrew Curry says:

If the nuts are the same size as the A24 which from memory i think there are 1 1/2 inch a mini ball joint socket is the correct size and you will do well to break one of these.

cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ball-Joint-Flywheel-Socket-1-5-1-1-2-Mini_...
Originally posted 115 months ago. (permalink)
Andrew Curry edited this topic 115 months ago.

view photostream

Eclipse 1 says:

If its any consolation Daddsie, although Eclipses keel joint was very rusty, there was only really surface rust on the studs, these clearly hadnt been removed in some time, nothing serious (except for my paranoia) at all.
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Eclipse 1 says:

If its any consolation Daddsie, although Eclipses keel joint was very rusty, there was only really surface rust on the studs, these clearly hadnt been removed in some time, nothing serious (except for my paranoia) at all. Bought a geavy duty socket, and as posted previously, welded the nuts to the studs, then drew the whole lot out into the cabin. Once it had been figured out, it was quite methodical.
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Daddsie says:

Hi Andrew, yep they are the sockets to use, unfortunatley, the bolt itself is three of four inches long, so a box spanner is the only tools that will cover it.
115 months ago (permalink)

busy home [deleted] says:

Cut off stud above nut with angle grinder ???
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Eclipse 1 says:

Yeah, that was at the end of the job, had left studs oversize to facilitate getting them all back in. Then insert studs using locking bolts & spanner, grind off excess studding, then can use big socket to finish off.
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Eclipse 1 says:

Misinterpreted your post Chille; box spanner unlikely to work, yep, grind off the excess studding.
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Daddsie says:

As I only want to get at the joint and not take the keel off the longer stud will mean that I can leave the nut at the end with no fear of the keel dropping off. After all I only want to grit blast and Sikkaflex the joint and torque it back up.
115 months ago (permalink)

busy home [deleted] says:

Good thinking batman...
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Daddsie says:

Gave up breaking box spanner and took Rons advice and cut off the longest studs and used a socket on them. Whipped them off in minutes, only one unthreaded the bolt from the keel. All the bolts are clean and shinny.

The joint is the next problem, using a Sabre saw to cut the joint was a failure so it is down to steel wedges, although Im going to try my luck with builder bolsters first.

Hopefully fingers crossed it should be split this weekend
115 months ago (permalink)

busy home [deleted] says:

Hardwood wedges dont damage the fibreglass as much ,, use a fine taper,and lots of them,
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Skykomish E29 says:

I suppose if you had the boat suspended above the ground somehow gravity would help in the removal of the keel
115 months ago (permalink)

view photostream

Daddsie says:

Finally split the keel off: www.flickr.com/photos/24768543@N04/4524260742/in/pool-ach...

We were beating away for ages when we realsied that something was still holding, this turned out to be two more bolts in the head/locker bilge under a plate. So there are 14 bolts holding the keel on. 12 @ 1' UNC, 1 @ 3/4 UNC and one on the leading edge at 1/2' UNC. So now to grit blast off the joint and stick it all back together.
115 months ago (permalink)

Would you like to comment?

Sign up for a free account, or sign in (if you're already a member).