*bv 3:47pm, 22 April 2010
Ok, I just inherited a Yashica TL Electro. Woo hoo! I don't have a manual, and I've read that some of these are 2.7 volt cameras and some are 6 volt cameras. Without a manual, how can I tell which batteries my camera takes? Also, are you getting mercury batteries for your cameras? Or are you just using comparable alkaline batteries. Anyone use battery adapters? Thanks so much for any guidance!
bexilford 9 years ago
Get your manual from this place www.butkus.org/chinon/
Cygnus-X1 9 years ago
Ditto the Butkus link - this guy has loads of manuals

You can get replacement alkali batteries. Three* of the four Yashicas I own take the A32PX (6v) replacement battery. (* the MG-1, Electro 35 GTN, (TL)Electro-AX ... the fourth is a Minister-3 which doesn't use a battery)

Here in the UK, I use the Small Battery Company:
www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_a32px.htm

In the US, you could try:
www.batteriesandbutter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=...

Ebay is also a good source.
*bv 9 years ago
Thanks so much for replying!
simonjamesonweston 9 years ago
I've just bought a TL Electro on ebay (and waiting for it to arrive) and have a battery question - how will I know if the camera should take two 1.35 batteries or on 6v? do the batteries only run the meter on this camera? Sorry to ask stupid questions - but I have never used this camera before and wanted to get batteries for when it arrives.
mechslrs 9 years ago
I use PC640 A alkaine batteries. Because they are 1.5 volts I will use the camera only for prints not the more exacting slide film.
simonjamesonweston 9 years ago
thanks for the comments. I read somewhere on the net that the added 0.3v generated by using 2 x 1.5v batteries will burn out your camera - I guess that is an urban myth. Mine is on the way now so I guess I will find out soon
SHIRAHOSH1 8 years ago
Hey, I just got a yashica Tl Electro too. I was reading the manual you guys listed above. And it recommends 2 Duracell 625A Alkaline Batteries. So...if I get those I should be okay right? Cause i don't want to waste money on batteries and they end up not working :/
dailyohdeer 8 years ago
I got the battery for mine on ebay and it works fine.
J Saari Posted 8 years ago. Edited by J Saari (member) 7 years ago
I bought a TL electro and it turned out to be 2.7 volt version (two ancient and totally dead PX640 mercury batteries were still inside the battery compartment).
I've been using two standard 1.5 volt LR44 alkaline batteries, which could be assembled with help of insulating tape and suitable metal spring. Haven't had any problems with those.

I doubt very much that 0.3 volt over voltage could burn camera indicator leds (if you insert them correctly, minus pole towards to the battery compartment cover). But for your interest, I measure the current consumption of in-camera light meter and turned out to be about 25 mA. So if you want to be completely safe and sure using 3 V batteries instead of 2.7 V, just put 12 ohm resistor in serie with batteries to get rid of that extra 0.3 volt. Of course this requires little bit of DIY assembling to put components inside the battery compartment.


Update + "trick" number 2:
I've red that CdS lightmeters are sensitive to supply voltage, meaning that wrong voltage causes wrong exposure values (unless camera has circuitry to compensate the "wrong" voltage, and I doubt that TL Electro has not that).
It is also known that voltage output of alkaline batteries varies during their life-span (slowly decreasing from nominal 1.5 V).
So I decide to update my battery setup with two 1.55 V SR44 silver-oxide batteries and one swiching diode in series. Purpose of diode is to cause constant voltage drop (better way to get rid of extra voltage than serial resistor). I used very common 1N4148 diode which gives a voltage drop of 0.7 V.

Pros of setup 2 (against my original setup)
+Output voltage of silver-oxide batteries is much more constant than alkaline batteries during their life-span.
+Silver-oxide batteries should last longer than alkalines. (But they cost a bit more too).
+Absolutely no fear of over voltage.

Cons of setup 2 (in generally)
-Still 0.3 V difference to nominal 2.7 V voltage. (Setup gives 1.55 + 1.55 - 0.7 = 2.4 V).
-It needs a bit of assembly skills to put everything in to the battery compartment.

I tested both setups in same lightning condition and they both gave the same result (same apereture value with same shutter speed). At least with +/- 1 EV accuracy.
Does anyone know if TL electro has voltage compensation circuitry for light meter?


Second update:
If you use germanium diode or certain types of suitable Schottky diode instead of "standard" silicon n-p junction diode, you will get voltage drop of about 0.3 V instead of 0.7 V. That should be almost perfect with two silver-oxide batteries (1.55 V + 1.55 V - 0.3 V = 2.8 V).
medical ladybug [deleted] 7 years ago
my light meter sais only arrow up, sucks, but those batts, what about placing 2 small buttons under one old dead bick button batt? Works also right? Lightmeter sais only up? sucks
J Saari 7 years ago
Bob Joe: I wouldn't mix in together batteries with different charge (empty/half empty/full) or with different type (1.5 V alkaline/ 1.35 V mercury). The result is that the batteries with higher charge try to "charge" the emptier batteries. This sucks full batteries empty faster and also causes uncertain voltage output levels (which in this case could lead inaccurate exposure measurements).
Instead, I would replace the old battery with some conductive material of the same shape (e.g. bundle of paper wrapped in aluminium foil) to as a "filler" in the battery compartment.
Also remember to set ISO value selector to 100 when testing the exposure meter because with very low or high ISO values the meter range will be "clipped" on the shortest and the longest shutter speeds.
allison.mae 6 years ago
i actually use two hearing aid batteries with a spring at the bottom to connect it. took forever to rig up, but it's cheap and works great!
Mike Sheil 2 years ago
I realize I'm late to this party, but I just got a TL Electro. I needed a battery, so I found this group. I saw J Saari's post about two LR44 batteries and "a suitable spring". I had some 357 batteries (LR44 replacement), but no suitable spring lying around. So I took a paper clip, straightened it out, then wrapped it in a coil around a pencil. I'll cut to the chase – the two taped-together batteries and my makeshift spring actually work. So far at least. I'll take some pictures during the day tomorrow, then develop them to see if their are any problems with the exposure due to incorrect voltage. Then I'll know if it works for sure. Or not.
-Mike
laura_rivera 2 years ago
I found this tip on the Internet a while ago, I think from butkis.org:

Batteries: It seems like most TL Electros use a pair of PX640 cells stacked. However it seems that some might take a single PX-28 (Eveready No. 544 or equivalent). It will be one or the other and fortunately there's an easy way to tell, based on the diameter of the battery compartment. Here's a simple method: Take a common AA cell and see if it fits into the hole at all. If it does, use a pair of PX640s. If it doesn't, use a PX28. The AA cell is between the diameter of the two, and if it will start to fit into the hole, then the hole diameter is one that fits the PX640. If the hole diameter is smaller, then use the PX28. Two PX640's stacked are the same height as a PX28, but the PX28 gives twice the voltage.]
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