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How to make a fixer(Both film and paper at home)

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manojsharma_2001 says:

Its getting really tough to get a fixer (For film and paper at my locality) Any suggestion how to make it at home
3:06AM, 22 October 2016 PDT (permalink)

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inetjoker is a group administrator inetjoker says:

sodium thiosulfate can be found at swimming pool and hot tub supply stores. sodium sulfite is used to preserve foods so it should be easy to find.

water 750 ml , warm
sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate 240 g
sodium sulfite anhydrous 50 g
water to make 1L
46 months ago (permalink)

wretched celery [deleted] says:

The Film Developing Cookbook by Anchell and Troop is available on Amazon and has recipes for everything you could need.

Anchell and Troop say that sodium thiosulphate-based fixers "cannot adequately fix modern films or papers" and that only ammonium thiosulphate should be used. Their fixer recipe is:

ammonium thiosulphate 57-60%, 800mL
sodium sulphite anhydrous, 60g
sodium metaborate 5g
water to make 1L
Dilute 1:4 with water for use.
46 months ago (permalink)

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Hachi Gatsu is a group administrator Hachi Gatsu says:

I have the darkroom cookbook myself. Not sure what you have available for resources but here's a recipe for Kodak F-5 Fixer, which is a general hardening fixer for both film and paper. From what I read it's a pretty close formula to the standard powder fixer Kodak sells for paper and film.

Kodak F-5 Fixer: Makes 1 liter solution

600.0 ml water - 52C (or around there)
240.0 grams Sodium Thiosulfate
15.0 grams Sodium Sulfite
48.0 ml of Acetic Acid (28% solution)
7.5 grams Boric Acid, crystalline
15.0 grams Potassium Alum, dodecahydrate
Water to finish off to 1 liter of solution.

Using this fixer (according to the book)

Film: Film should be clear in 5 minutes and fully fixed in 10. Discard when the clearing time is close to 10 minutes.

Paper: Use the two-bath method, 5 minutes in each bath. Do not add hardener if you intend to tone the print.

I'm not sure what it means by two bath method. My guess is the two-tray method used with print work. If that's the case, this is what the book says:

Two-Tray Development:

"...this technique is to use two separate developers, usually a low contrast formula, such as Ansco 120, and a high or normal contrast developer, such as Ansco 130 or Kodak D-72. Development begins in the low-contrast solution and is completed in the normal or high contrast developer.

...you may wish to dilute the low contrast developer to as much as 1:3 or 1:4 and use the normal/high contrast developer at either 1:1 or in stock form (undiluted). The time in each developer can be varied, though the minimum time in the normal/high contrast developer is usually about 15 seconds if any effect is to be had. A good base point would be to develop the print for 90 seconds in the low contrast developer and 30 seconds in the normal/high contrast developer, although as much as a 50/50 time split may be used. A 10-second drain between development baths will help minimize cross contamination."

Ansco 120

750.0 ml Water at 52C
12.3 grams Metol
36.0 grams Sodium Sulfite
36.0 grams Sodium Carbonate, monohydrate
1.8 grams Potassium bromide
Water to complete 1 liter of solution

Normal usage for paper: Dilute 1:1.
Two-Tray Method: Can dilute up to 1:4

Kodak D-72

*Book Notes: This developer is similar to Kodak Dektol*

750.0 ml water at 52C
3.0 grams Metol
45.0 grams Sodium Sulfite
12.0 grams Hydroquinone
80.0 grams Sodium Carbonate, monohydrate
2.0 grams Potassium bromide
Water to complete 1 liter of solution

Dilution may vary from 1:1 to 1:4 depending upon the contrast and image tone desired. Normal dilution with chlorobromide papers is 1:2. For warmer tones, dilute 1:3 or 1:4 and add approximately 8.0 ml of 10% potassium bromide per liter. For higher contrast with bromide papers, dilute 1:1 and add 1.0 ml of 10% bromide per liter. Development times are from 1.5 to 3 minutes.
Originally posted 46 months ago. (permalink)
Hachi Gatsu (a group admin) edited this topic 46 months ago.

wretched celery [deleted] says:

People contemplating following some of these recipes need to be confident they can do so safely. Although developing chemicals are not dangerous as chemicals go some of them can be hazardous if not handled carefully.

The common one that worries me is concentrated acetic acid, because dilute acetic acid - vinegar - is harmless so people don't realise that the concentrated solutions are not harmless. The 28% solution in some of the Anchell and Troop recipes needs to be handled in a fume hood, with nitrile gloves (it dissolves ordinary latex gloves) and goggles. Some recipes use glacial acetic acid, which is seriously hazardous: if you spill it, you get out and Hazmat men in chemical protection suits with breathing apparatus have to come to your house to clean it up.

Anyone who is not sure, when they look at the recipe, that they can handle each and every ingredient safely, can't.
46 months ago (permalink)

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Hachi Gatsu is a group administrator Hachi Gatsu says:

Absence de Marquage:

Thanks for the safety add.

I have yet to work with this concentration of acetic acid myself so I will certain catalog this information for future use when I get my darkroom pieced together.
46 months ago (permalink)

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manojsharma_2001 says:

thanks everybody thank u every much i will definitely save it for future, for now, i just ordered Koda fix and hope that will do good
46 months ago (permalink)

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