oldsnapper7mc 4:50am, 15 June 2012
Being fairly New to IR photography I am pleased to have found this group.
I seemed to be getting lost a bit in processing but browsing the images here I find I am on the right lines & slowly making progress.
Now I can settle down & get some Phots to show here.
I am using a converted Nikon S 5400 compact & also a D50 with screwin filters. My main lens is a Sigma 24mm AF that is some years old but works well. The 50 mm f1.8 is also finding favour .
photos to follw..
Coneheadkeef PRO 5 years ago
Hi and welcome to the group.

I too am using a converted Nikon 5400 and very pleased with results.
I also use an unconverted Canon G10 with a Suntec 720nm filter mainly for "false colour."

Kelly Milaszewicz 5 years ago
Thought I'd say hi without starting a new thread - and the title of this discussion describes me in one :D

Using a converted )720nm) Nikon D70s and a calibrated 18-50 DX lens.

Using a custom profile within LR3 to process and just about getting my head around channel swapping.

Reading through all the posts to learn and not make 'newby' mistakes.

Great group pool
gh0c3 5 years ago
I, like Kelly, decided this was a good starting spot to post.
I have been poking around with IR photography for almost a year but never really liked how it was turning out due to the exceptionally long exposure times required; on my Olympus E-PL1 I was looking at roughly 1-2 minutes for indoor and 30-60 seconds for outdoor, both of which I decided were too long to get "good" IR photos. I have some that I like from this camera, but the majority of them, things move too much to keep me happy.
So I took the plunge and converted my Fujifilm S5000... which was surprisingly easy. It is now a MOSTLY IR+Visible camera. I say mostly because it acutally appears to have a film on the lens as well as a filter in front of the CCD and thus if I take pictures without an IR filter in front, you don't really notice the IR; it is mostly a visible spectrum picture (with hints of IR when compared to a normal visible spectrum picture).
I removed the filter in front of the CCD, which caused minor focusing issues (manual focus is required for 100% in focus pictures when using a wide aperature, narrow aperature seems to focus fine; which is what I expected). BUT I can now take IR pictures quite easily with my 2 IR lenses:
1) a 720nm one (ordered off of ebay for cheap, but it works good)
2) custom built one using unexposed slide film and 2 UV filters screwed together (UV filters to hold the slide film... I have swapped one of the UV's for a soft focus filter and it looks nice too)
I do not have any "good" IR photos done yet (either out of focus or not enough post-processing done on them yet... or super low MP with high ISO due to me having the camera in auto like an idiot).
but I will post some of my shots soon. The shots I see on this group already I know will put all of mine to shame, but at least I can get some (hopefully) constructive criticizm... and heck, even destructive criticizm will be helpful.
akione7 5 years ago
welcome aboard people!!!
remember everyone crawled before they walked...
I am still learning.
RTsan 5 years ago
Years in, still learning...what's great about IR is a newbie can hit one out of the park and a vet can struggle. Just keep shooting!
johnswanda 5 years ago
That's what is so great about photography in general - a newbie can luck into a masterpiece - what other art form is that true of?
daniel.neville.dsouza 5 years ago
IMO, one trick to focus is to change the setting from normal (camera icon) to macro (flower icon). It works on my Point and Shoot full spectrum camera without a hot filter replacement. So i'm guessing it would work in most cases.
akione7 Posted 5 years ago. Edited by akione7 (member) 5 years ago
I don't understand what a 'full spectrum camera without hot mirror replacement' is.
The reasons you are able to focus on your point and shoot are:
1. your camera's hot mirror is more sensitive to IR than newer cameras
2. most point and shoots have live view options
I used to use my Fuji S6000fd and Canon S2-IS unmodified with B+W092 filter. They both auto focused with no problems with the 092 screwed onto the front of the lens. I also used the viewfinders to compose the shot and ensure proper focus. Also CWB is not a problem. I still use them, but since then I have modified them to full spectrum (the hot mirror has been replaced), only because I hate seeing "ghosts".

At least with my cameras, the macro mode doesn't quite work when shooting landscapes.
bill.d PRO 5 years ago
"Full spectrum without hot mirror replacement" is exactly what it says – the hot mirror has been removed and not replaced. Typically, one would put a plain piece of glass in the place of the hot mirror so that the focal point of the lens is the same, but, if the original hot mirror was thin enough, it can be left off. The risk is that the camera may not be able to focus on infinity (or at all). This is the simplest way of hacking a DIY IR camera.

P&S cameras autofocus successfully because they use a contrast detection method that uses the image on the sensor to focus. DSLRs cannot (or have to be calibrated) because they determine their focus by using the pentaprism mirror, not the sensor, which focuses the visible light, not the IR. DSLRs that have live view, of course, fall into the same category as P&S – they use contrast detection on the sensor, and are far easier to use than without live view.
oldsnapper7mc 4 years ago
Thank you for the replies. The Images from the Camera come out red & I can convert to B&W ok however I would like to Know how to get Colour conversions.
I have tried channel swapping without sucess so I asume iam doing something wrong.
Could it be my white Ballance setting? Any advice would be helpful as I now have ny D70 back from my sonin law & I have a screw in R72 filter.
I lioke the B&W shots But would love to try getting colour.
Thank you in anticipation.
markoneswift 4 years ago
Hello there - your problem could ( partly ) be due to white balance. The best thing to do is to take a custom WB with the filter on the camera and use something like grass as your target. Make sure you fill the VF with your target than take the WB reading.

As for channel swapping, I use Photoshop CS5. I usually adjust the levels to add more dynamic range ( my IR shots are often flat ) and then go to the channel mixer. In the red channel, reduce the red to 0% and pull the blue up to 100%. Then in the blue channel, reduce the blue to 0% and the red to 100%. You can also adjust the green channel, but I tend to leave that alone.

Channel swapped IR shot :-

Blue Lagoon
oldsnapper7mc 4 years ago
Thank you markoneswift. this must be the problem, I will give this try when the Sun come back ( Rain Here).
Your shot above is what I want to get, very nice one BTW.
My attempts via Channel mixer just give B&W results.
Will post me attempt .
daniel.neville.dsouza 4 years ago

take a small peice of unexposed developed c41 film (or e6)
place it in front of your camera (i stuck it on mine)

IMAG0781 by daniel.neville.dsouza

this is how your images should look with auto white balance

Infrared by daniel.neville.dsouza

choose custom white balance, and point it to grass on a sunny day

Infrared by daniel.neville.dsouza

and then with a color swap, you should end up with

INFRARED by daniel.neville.dsouza

if this is the look you are going for ^^
daniel.neville.dsouza 4 years ago

the above links will lead you to custom actions to swap your channels in one click. just copy the .atn files to the actions folder in photoshops root folder, and you are good to go from within photoshop. loads of tutorials online for loading actions into photoshop.

Hbie 4 years ago
Does channel swapping work on the 830nm filter?
daniel.neville.dsouza 4 years ago
I'm not too sure. 720nm seems to be the ideal filter. Do you get a orangish hue in your photos? if you do, then im sure its swappable. Do try it out and let us know :)
Nothings Written in stone. Give it a go :D
daniel.neville.dsouza 4 years ago
Black and white infrared
The deep 800nm and 850nm filters are called the "black and white" filters, because they produce monochrome images. Unlike the color infrared filters, infrared light in these wavelengths registers on the red, green, and blue pixels fairly evenly, producing a monochrome image. However, while the image is monochrome, it does not necessarily come out as black and white due to the way the camera handles white balances. It is often necessary to still set a custom white balance to ensure that images come out black and white rather than blue or red hued. Alternately, the camera can be set record only black and white.

from > Kolarivision.com
Hbie 4 years ago
They come out mauve, with a CWB they are almost B&W just a slight blue colour cast. I have tried before but did not seem to work.
daniel.neville.dsouza 4 years ago
could you post a image or something for reference. i could try working on it to see if i can get the results you are looking for :)
oldsnapper7mc 4 years ago
Hi all, not sure how to post a photo with a topic so i have posted a shot before processing into the group page.
Hope this give some idea of the files i get direct from the camera
oldsnapper7mc 4 years ago
Can some one please copy the IR photo from my photostream to my above post
daniel.neville.dsouza Posted 4 years ago. Edited by daniel.neville.dsouza (member) 4 years ago

here you go :)
daniel.neville.dsouza Posted 4 years ago. Edited by daniel.neville.dsouza (member) 4 years ago
Try setting your white balance to something like the underside of leaves. i tend to get a almost monotone image with custom WB. Its only when i transfer the images to a PC do i actually like the light tint.
Try setting your WB to tungsten (indoor bulb)
that might help change the tone of the leaves in your image.

If you have an orange filter, then The IR+Orange filter should give you Pink / Purple Trees, and a Monotone Everything else.
oldsnapper7mc 4 years ago
Thank you danielle, will try this.
I only have an R72 filter.
markoneswift 4 years ago
I find that taking a custom WB setting off the back of my hand also gives interesting results - it generally gives foliage a strong cyan colour which I can then desaturate in cs5.
bill.d PRO 4 years ago

Are you going to loan out your hand, then? ;)
akione7 Posted 4 years ago. Edited by akione7 (member) 4 years ago
with film as a IR medium you will get more of a B&W image because it's cutoff is in the high 700nm (close to 800) and its slope is not as sharp or refined as a quality IR filter.

The amount and quality of the tint/color result after doing a CWB is dependent on the camera/manufacturer. My Canon and Panasonic point and shoots will give me a nice "normal" IR shot straight out of the camera. It will have "woody" greens with the proper CWB and a re-calibration of the CWB is generally not required. When I use my Fuji point and shoot no matter what environment after a CWB, in camera and in PSE image starts out pinkish until an auto level is done. With all my cameras it comes out flat.

BTW, it would be nice to be able to get a loaner once i a while....

thanks forgot to take my blinders off...
markoneswift 4 years ago

Use your own ! I need mine for playing guitar
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