fuadi_z 11:22am, 21 March 2008
I got this lens for about 30 $ at local auction. But heck the focus ring is so loose that it sounds like a hammer when I turn in up and down.
A quick search on the net and try to fix it. I want to share them with you..
Here's what I used:
75-150mm f 3.5 series E

about 4 cm of the tape...
and it works!!!! no more free falling....

75-150mm f 3.5 series E

And took some photos with it. sometimes I even think that it is sharper that this lens
18-200mm VR

later I add another stripe to add a little more friction..
any comments?
Drewhound 10 years ago
Looks like you've done a neat job! I like your comment about the lens being sharper than the 18-200 VR, you bet it is :-)
Ryan_Lim 10 years ago
yup, a little electrical tape will do the trick.
basegrinder 10 years ago
thats how I fixed mine, I used extra wide electrical tape though
ImagesbyEduardo.com PRO 10 years ago
Now if we could fix the creep on the VR18-200, but that's for another group.
Leighgion 10 years ago
What isn't sharper than an 18-200mm VR? ;)
soundman1024 10 years ago
Knives served in kitchens at public schools. Usually the handle on the fork works about as well as the knife.

Aside from that I'm not sure what isn't sharper than the 18-200mm VR.
ault 10 years ago
@Leighgion - a spork.

Re: zoom creep fix - I'm a bit worried about the electrical tape degrading and becoming all nasty and gummy a few years down the road. Any thoughts?
shad_41 10 years ago
Apparently the old fashioned "Dymo" label tape is the one to use and with its thick plastic coating it should last for years. No disrespect to anybody that owns one, but I borrowed an 18-200VR for a couple of hours on a night shoot and found the image quality to be horrendous. I ended up using a 50/1.8 E, Sigma 10-20 and 18-55 kit lens, all producing sharper flare free images than the 18-200.
basegrinder 10 years ago

radiofreeCA suggest a thin coat of silicone.

he says your lens is full of gunk anyway, so even silicon shaving off won't do much worse than usual...and I agree...I used one of those subscription cards that fall out of magazines like a shim to clean out my 135mm focus ring. tons and tons and tons of gunk in there, although the lens looks nearly brand new, not a scratch on it, no yellowed lettering nothing...

so even as pristine as it was, some kind of gunk made its way under the focus ring. but you'd think so anyway, after 27 years, even sitting in a drawer
mazdamattc PRO 10 years ago
Besides my old Nikkors, my primary lens is the Love/Hate 18-200VR. I love mine, and find it plenty sharp, and incredibly versatile. It's only shortcoming, for me, is it's light gathering capabilities, but you have to pay the REALLY big money for fast zooms. Maybe I just have a good copy, or maybe my image quality standards are lower than other users. I shoot mostly portraits, where iq doesn't matter as much, so maybe that explains it.
fuadi_z 10 years ago
@ault: I'm a bit worried about the electrical tape degrading and becoming all nasty and gummy a few years down the road..

It cost almost no money, and less than a minute work. you can change it everyday. why wait years?
mrbwa1 PRO 10 years ago
Am I the only one that likes the zoom slap? My example is an old 80-200 f/4.5 AI, but I like the lightning quick focus and zoom ability. I suppose a little friction wouldn't slow that down much. But hey, It's also my tripod level (sorta kidding there)
Blackbeard Ben 10 years ago
I like the loose zoom ring on my 75-150mm as well. When it's really cold out, it's still usable unlike my other lenses. I do sometimes have trouble over shooting when I'm focusing, but it's not too bad. My 135mm AI is definitely nicer built though, including the silky smooth but dampened focus.
rijac 10 years ago
hi... erm... i can't see clearly where the tape was stuck... could someone describe it? thanks!
David Van Chu PRO 10 years ago
I believe it's a strip of tape vertically along the barrel.
quietlightphoto Posted 10 years ago. Edited by quietlightphoto (member) 10 years ago
The Nikon E 75-150 (Kiron made) is a very good lens. And MUCH sharper than the mediocre at best, Nikon 18-200VR. If you tire of the dreaded zoom creep on the E series 75-150, check out the smaller, more compact & every bit as sharp, Kiron or Vivitar 70-150 lenses.

Kiron 70-150

natures_mathematics 10 years ago
I used a strip of card from a cigarette packet and left a tiny ear peeking out so I could change it when needed...you just slide it in and tear off where appropriate...
jsv_foto 9 years ago
Sorry to revive this old thread...thought I'd ask a couple of questions:


"radiofreeCA suggest a thin coat of silicone..."

Would caulking do the job or is something else needed? I'm curious because I'm in the market for a couple of zooms. The cheaper ones I've found have zoom creep.

I've never been a zoom kind of guy, but for some reason I've had a hankering for one lately. Any advice besides the tape and cigarette package strip would be helpful.
basegrinder 9 years ago
the 75-150 is a really nice lens with nice contrast, I think most will agree. And feels pretty solid...

I think the electrical tape works well enough (and its thick and tough enough not to start coming apart)

But I would go with silicone rather than regular caulk, but you would have to be careful doing it not to make it too thick.
RadioFreeCalifornia 9 years ago
go with the electrical tape....
anniebluesky.•*♥ 9 years ago
@natures_mathematics, Aren't you afraid of the cardboard slipping out of place and 'free floating'? I don't know how much room in between the barrel and outside, but it seems possible. Has it worked for you?

Even so, I'm with the "I love the slap" group. I use the looseness to my advantage for really focusing in on my subject. I have learned how to carry the camera with this lens to avoid the heart stopping slap.
natures_mathematics 9 years ago
Annie, it worked fine for me. You need to use card that is just thick enough to produce a bit of friction so it stays in place.

This is the way to fix the fault good and proper but involves a fair bit of stripping down of the lens:


I HAD to pull mine apart as the inner glass had haze and I used parts from a second beater copy, so I did the real fix in the end simply because I had the opportunity.
jsv_foto Posted 9 years ago. Edited by jsv_foto (member) 9 years ago

Would that fix be similar for other zooms that have creep or is that design specific to the Series E 75-150?

Everyone else, thank you for your reply.
natures_mathematics Posted 9 years ago. Edited by natures_mathematics (member) 9 years ago
You could conceivably fix most push pull zooms like that, though it would depend on the design. The 75-150 has a wee groove to fit the foam/felt in so it may have to be thinner for a non-series e. I certainly fixed up a Series 1 70-210 ( tokina ) the same...

What do you have to fix?
jsv_foto 9 years ago
I'm looking at getting an 80-200 f4.5 AI that has zoom creep. Also thought about getting the 75-150...but the ranges are so close...

I'm looking at getting an older zoom for portraits/children, so would need something that produces creamy backgrounds that would also allow me to keep my distance from my subject...
ScreaminScott PRO 9 years ago
Then you want a faster lens that you can shoot wide open so as to be able to blur the background with
jsv_foto Posted 9 years ago. Edited by jsv_foto (member) 9 years ago
Thanks Scott. I thought about it, but too much lens and too much money for me.

These pictures kind of tell me I don't need to pay the big bucks to get the same effect:

N 80_200 IMG_1207 by frankmf.tw

N 80_200 IMG_1271 by frankmf.tw

I could go for an 80-200 f2.8 AF-D, but I've got a lowly D40x that won't autofocus it. The alternatives are MF f2.8 lenses, but they've received very mixed reviews.
BeWePa PRO 9 years ago
The two zooms 75-150 and 80-200 are excellent (I have the pre-AI 80-200 which I got for cheap and is very good). The 180:2.8 is indeed excellent too, but more expensive.
natures_mathematics 9 years ago
Dof will be thin enough for portraits at 200mm wide open at minimum focus with the 80-200mm. And the zoom is dampened the same as the 75-150 - mine had totally turned to mush when it came to me. There are loads of ai rings at pacific rim for that lens if you get a pre-ai, also. The nikon repair book has a teardown for that lens, i think - if you can't find it, let me know cos its around somewhere!
jsv_foto 9 years ago
Will do. I'm going to head down to some of the shops and see how much I can bargain on a used 80-200.
natures_mathematics 9 years ago

Confusingly there are two editions of this book on Google books, one cuts out the 80-200mm 4.5 repair section, this one shows MOST of it...
delta2864 Posted 9 years ago. Edited by delta2864 (member) 9 years ago
the 75-150 3.5 is a constant zoom ,and it lived up to the hype ,it really is a wonderful lens.
I picked up a very nice 200mm f4 AI prime to compliment

it would be a shame to miss it because of overlap

the 200 isnt shabby either
previous tooth [deleted] 9 years ago
If anyone's interested, I bought the book, and am happy to scan the section.
julio navas 9 years ago
i will love to have this book, indeed....
natures_mathematics 9 years ago
Hi Suzy, the above link gives you the whole 80-200mm section upto and including pg 110. Could you take a quick look to see what we are missing?
previous tooth [deleted] 9 years ago
The section (and indeed chapter) ends on page 111, and even then it's only half a page.
natures_mathematics 9 years ago
Yeah, I didn't think there was much more to it. Thanks for the offer Suzy.
previous tooth [deleted] 9 years ago
For reference, the text reads:

"up. Pick a small section of the felt ribbon out of its channel, then glue a small piece of paper underneath it. Replace the strips only if you can get the original felt. Either way, this is less work than repacking with grease, but the result is still unpredictable. It might come out too tight or the movement uneven.

There is one more possibility, however. At the side of the mount of the front zoom element, you'll notice two milled out recesses for a flat leaf spring each. Put two more kinks into each spring to make them fit toghter. There are no surprises here because you can insert the front unit, and try it again without putting a single screw in.

However, this being almost the same amount of work as repacking with grease, do this only if you have to disassemble the zoom barrel anyway. Photo 7.25 shows the two friction springs - one bent to fit tighter, the other is still in its original shape.

When reassembling the rear, don't forget that the focusing grip barrel goes on before the aperture dial. When refitting the brass guides on the rim of the front sleeve, make sure you use the original screws. If any of the screws are even slightly longer, the zoom movement will be impeded."

If anyone wants a pdf copy of the chapter, send me your email address and I'll mail it to you. It's reasonably big, at 1MB.
Simon Kranefuss 9 years ago

Too bad that book is still under a copy-write protection (that's not a bad thing imo, but) as it would be great to get it printed by the local book store that now offers electronic printing directly from the vast array of google scanned books via the Espresso Book Machine at Third Place Books near Seattle.


Third Place Books and a few others will help you pick out a copy-write free book and print it and bind it into a real book all for about $10
jsv_foto 9 years ago
Well...KEH sent me a 1st gen 80-200 f4.5. A bit disappointed because I was hoping to get the 2nd gen (after '77) version as listed in the picture. In any case the glass looks great, as usual.

I think I'm going to go sniffing around for a Series E...75-150.
Blackbeard Ben 8 years ago
People here might be interested in this guide to fixing the lens creep:

Also, if anyone has taken the 75-150 apart, I'd be interested in knowing how to fine-tune the infinity focus.
natures_mathematics 8 years ago
That's already been linked above :oP

Cannot remember what the infinity adjustment is for this lens...try moving the front element forwards or backwards ( its screw mounted and fixes down with a set screw if i remember correctly ).
jsv_foto 8 years ago
The adhesive backed felt is available at Mcmaster.com. Just type in felt and work your way through the various thickness, sizes etc.
Blackbeard Ben 8 years ago
Thanks for the set screw tip - I see it and am going to experiment shortly.
Blackbeard Ben 8 years ago
You're my hero! It works great now. I'm going to check in the daytime (it's night here and a pity it's cloudy), but it's pretty easy to adjust.

Now I'm all free to sell the 80-200/2.8 AF-S...
ae5j 7 years ago
Slide the zoom/focus ring all the way toward the front of the lens. I didn't measure per se. Just cut a strip and then trimmed until it went from the back edge of the zoom/focus ring back toward the mount. Be sure not to cover any lettering or numbers. Choose your spot.

It is not easy to get the tape under the ring. It's a tight fit. Get the tape down smooth and try it. If you want it tighter, put another piece on the opposite side.

Hope I was clear - long day.
Spodeworld PRO 7 years ago
I just did it and it worked..thanks! I also applied the same thing to the 70-210 f4, but that needed 2 layers as the barrel is heavier.
Woof. 7 years ago
did this with all three examples I've had

then got this Vivitar 100-200/4 (on a D700 now) and sold all those old slappers :-)

Woof. 7 years ago
IMO it's as sharp as the 75-150 once you get the hang, and it handles so much better...


Dirty weather brewing down South

Bathing Robin 5
Spodeworld PRO 7 years ago
Now that the tape's been on there for a while, have you noticed any sticky residue?

Nice images. Seems like a lens worth looking into.
grahamline PRO 7 years ago
The tape fix depends on weather and use -- when using mine a lot in hot weather, 3M electrical tape needed to be replaced every other month or so. Gaffer tape is a little fatter but lasts longer. Eventually, I peeled all the tape away and use it as is, but mine remains better than most and my hands are pretty steady.

Don't use no-name tape from the dollar bin.
ae5j 7 years ago
I use Scotch 33 electrical tape. It is pretty much impervious to most things. It's designed specifically to endure outside in sunlight. Haven't seen any degradation in several years.
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