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Field report - morning of day 1 | by steveyb
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Field report - morning of day 1

1st paddle out with Jesse - larger sets closing out - timed the sprint and got outside.

 

Tried for a couple lefts but the waves just had no where to go. Got worked on the inside by some large bombs - good hold down that reminded me to take deep breaths and chill. Jesse said the 2 even larger set waves behind me woulda caught me inside no matter what. Chalk it up to getting wet and de-kooking a bit. Surf tonight.

 

Swell 4-7ft and closing out - not a great direction.

 

Water insanely warm.

 

Air temps - hot in the shade and mind melting in the sun.

 

Arms already rebelling and complaining.

 

Stoked.

 

Now it's siesta time. Swell photos later.

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Taken on April 8, 2011