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“Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul.”
John Muir

Our Navajo guide, Gabriel, said that we were fortunate to be able to spend so much time in Monument Valley because most people stay only a few hours and get to see very little. And even fewer take the tour into the back country or other areas that require a Navajo guide.

I have a habit of arriving in places after dark and awakening to the surprise of nature in the early morning hours and this national park was no different. My first clue of the majestic nature that would unfold in the light was a large rock formation near the road North of Kayenta. This large force erupted from the high desert floor, against the backdrop of a million stars and my first thought was, "wow, that would make the perfect night shot." But we were late and I was not driving. Gabriel told us that the rock's name was El Capitan but yesterday I saw where someone called it Agathla, which is derived from the Navajo word, aghaałą́ meaning 'much wool', apparently for the fur of antelope and deer accumulating on the rock. The rock is considered to be sacred.

The first morning in Monument Valley did not disappoint. I looked out across the span of sandy desert with its robust warriors standing tall and held my breath. While in Taos I visited my friend, Ray Vinella, famed local and internationally renowned Artist, founding member of "The Taos Six", and told him of my plans to visit the valley. Ray's face lit up and he said, "My old stomping grounds...I'm so glad that you are going there." To see that smile on my friend's face, as distant memories flooded in, let me know that this was a special place.

I won't bore you with the details of our tour, which was supposed to be for three hours but lasted six and was the finest experience I've had thus far, but will tell you that more of me woke up. Having grown amongst much hatred, rejection, violence and dysfunction, but with a heart that spoke to nature and all of the animals, I constantly had a hunger to step away from what was real, into the fantasies of horse stories with endings that made me wish for more. Through all of my years of college I have resisted learning about history, particularly the violence against minorities, land and animals. I did not want to face those realities because there was nothing that I could do about them. But as this journey has continued, my thirst for history has grown and now become insatiable after my time in Monument Valley with a two different Navajo guides, father and daughter. The past couple of nights I have finally been watching the Ken Burns, PBS series on the history of the national parks and there have found the words in my heart through those of Muir, Roosevelt and others. I had no idea that there were people who felt exactly like I did. Exactly. I am not original. I can see clearly now that my exploration of that which has been preserved for everyone to enjoy was a journey that I had to take. From the very first moment that I saw Mt. Rainier, I thirsted to see more. We are so lucky that a few men in history came along in time to devote their lives to preserving a few special monuments of nature, and of history that man created long ago, so that the average person, you and I, would have a place to go. Places where everyone becomes rich with the privilege of witnessing nature.

Majestic Monument Valley Touring Co. www.majesticmonumentvalley.com/
435-727-3432
I can't recommend this touring company enough. A gentle ride through the back country, filled with history and stories - you will not be disappointed.

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“Only from the heart Can you touch the sky.”
Jalal ad-Din Rumi

Back at my trailer on the river and settled in. The box of baking soda is taking care of the odor of rotten food that spoiled during my time away but not of the laundry that desperately needs to be washed. As you might imagine, I often ruminate about my adventure and the changes it has brought into my life. Once an anti-social soul on the trails, I now stop and talk to almost everyone I meet. I find their stories interesting and thrill in telling of my ongoing adventure. Always I hear awe and a wistful longing from those who would like to be living "the dream." I enjoy watching the lightbulb turn on when I say, "1979, 17' Komfort travel trailer," and listening to the different reactions. I talk little of the difficulties that have come and gone, or are yet to arrive, because they are a small part of the story. No, it is the part where I get to be out in nature and in the natural areas that have been preserved for now and for the future. I celebrate all that nature has given and am a firm believer in that everything here was meant to be here for a purpose. None of us have the right to destroy the beauty of the landscape, the creatures and the loving hearts that are within us when we are young, innocent and unaffected by cruelties and prejudices that are thrust upon us. That is my belief, however naive it might sound. I prefer to continue my search for the peace in my heart and the joy in my soul. And so, that 17' 1979 Komfort trailer is meant to be now and was what I needed to begin this journey of the heart. It is also clear that at some point it will be necessary to upgrade into a larger and more stable home on wheels, which will end the story of the beginning and continue the story of the travels. At times I hope that the day will come soon and at other times I mourn the tale of the beginning. I love this nomadic way of life! Absolutely and completely - not because I am alone but because I am no longer alone with the people that step into my path. How else can one person see so much and meet so many similar hearts? My recent travels in Arizona and New Mexico have given new meaning and resolve to my goals to see this country - our national parks, monuments and wildlife refuges - to learn of different cultures and to share my adventures. My needs have simplified, along with my desires, and have emphasized what is important in my life. I can not have it all, no one can, and so this simplification to travel, explore, photograph, write, read and learn is perfect. Now, if I could find the time to do all of those in one day....LOL Everyday I feel as though this journey is just now beginning as there has been much to sort out and organize. I need help with those organizational skills, and with web design and marketing because this is a journey to share with others, not to keep inside of my heart. And so the investigations continues and life unfolds.

This shot of Sandhill cranes in flight was taken during sunrise at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge near Socorro, NM.

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And so Sunday morning was a lazy time in Grand Canyon National Park. Slept in until 9, read the paper, posted a photo and then had an awful burger at the cafeteria before taking a hike on the Kaibab trail that goes down into the canyon and across to the other side. Our destination was Ooh Ahh Point (see photo in comment section), which is not all that far into the canyon but much of the trail was covered in ice and it was a treacherous descent. I will be carrying crampons for future national park hiking trips. The views inside the canyon were stunning, overwhelming, etc.. and I would love to hike this entire trail across to the other side - if anyone is thinking about doing the same and could use a hiking partner. Surprisingly though the views on top made for the best images because of the ready availability of foreground elements and the contrast of the red rocks and the snow. After the hike we drove out to Moran Point, unsure if there would be a performing sunset because of clouds to the west but as the time drew near the low sky cleared and wow! You should have seen these cliffs going from dull to deep red! Took my breath away, and then the sky filled with color. I shot the cliffs with the sun behind me until the color was gone from them and then ran to the other side of the point for the rest of the sunset. Turned out to be a great day and evening. Plus, it was about time that a sunset cooperated with me. Sunday consisted of some sunrise shooting, fabulous breakfast at El Tovar - don't be afraid of the fancy table cloths and formal style, you are in a national park to enjoy the outdoors, not dress up for breakfast. And, from what I can tell, they serve the best food on the South Rim - Bright Angel is one of the okay places that push you in an out, and if you ask for warmer soup it will come back too hot to consume and without anything more than a flippant apology. In the future I will prefer camping at the Grand Canyon and cooking my own meals. The South Rim has a campground with full hook-ups for $34.50 a night or half price with an access pass. I can't wait to go back and really explore this overwhelming national park.

Back at my trailer now where it is a bit too hot. My fridge malfunctioned and I came home last night to a whole lot of rotten food. Replacing that is going to hurt. Left my camera at C.R.I.S. in Chandler for another cleaning and they will mail it to me this week. I do like this camera repair business quite a lot. Anyway, a lot of laundry to wash and errands to do and then I will be at work until leaving my snowbird place late in the month. That is unless winter decides to happen but I do have places to see! Now to go into town for propane and groceries!

I had no idea of what to expect when we pulled into Grand Canyon National Park shortly before sunset last night. The landscape was at that in between point when everything is dull and grey with a few highlights far off in the distance. I didn't plan on being able to get any shots of my first glimpses but as we drove along, the real canyon came into view and I was startled to the core. True wow! We pulled in at the next lookout, which might have been Lipan, just as the sunset colors began. To watch the color of the rocks transform, with the natural red light, was breathtaking, even if there wasn't much in the way of sunset color to the west. Some low lying red low on the horizon but not worth shooting from our vantage point. I quickly set up and took a few images at ƒ22 and so the shutter speed was slow but worth the results.

After a six hour, breathtaking tour with Gabriel at Majestic Monument Valley Touring Company in the morning (more about this great experience later) we were exhausted, blood sugar low and grouchy and so it was dinner and rest time. I nixed getting up for sunrise this morning but will be out there tomorrow. Now it is time for a hike down into the canyon. Wish me luck, this place scares me a bit.

As yesterday afternoon wore on it became apparent that we were not going to get any of those big white clouds that we all pray for and thus, not much color for sunset. I hastily arranged with the tour company to take us to Tear Drop Arch and a delightful young lady, Hope, took us to this spot. After I set up for this shot I turned to Hope and Scott and said, "Don't you dare laugh." And then I set the timer for 20 seconds, pushed the shutter and made a run for it, going down, around a gully and hopping up into this spot. Originally I was turned the other way but at the last second realized that it was wrong and turned around with even some time to spare. This is the result of that single RAW file. Scott wished he had thought to video the moment and said he would be ready the next time. Ouch. Afterwards, we went a little ways into the valley for some late afternoon work and then I was exhausted and hungry. Right now we are getting ready to take a tour into the back lands, where the real treasures are and then on to Lake Powell and Horseshoe Bend. Better get bundled up and ready.