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how I shoot photos of ceramics on my kitchen table!

top light illuminating the crown of the piece
Two front/side lights illuminate the pot without having any on-camera lighting. Tripods are $20 cheapies, one I bought, the other I got for free. The lights are $10 work lights from a hardware store. I use normal white light bulbs-- a lot less expensive compared to full spectrum bulbs
My broom handle suspension is duct taped to one of the tripod panning handles-- it sets up and locks in place nicely!
The camera is on a real tripod (Benro) to prevent camera shake. I often end up shooting in the 1/6 to 1/2 range, and a good tripod is really worth while to absorb the mirror flip vibration.
Another mirror flip vibration trick-- use a remote!
I use a gray gradient backdrop from B&H-- http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/17747-REG/Flotone_GFT409_Graduated_Background_31x43_.html
how I shoot photos of ceramics on my kitchen table! by Brian Searle.
Edit: I have an update here!

Some people have asked me how I take photos of my pots, so the notes in this picture should cover everything I know! The light setup and backdrop cost me less than $100. I shoot with a Nikon D80 using either a Nikon 50mm 1.8 lens or the Tamron 90mm 2.8 macro, but you could shoot with anything that you can mount to a tripod. I keep the F/stop at F/13 to get the biggest field of depth without worrying about sensor size diffraction.

Getting a decent backdrop is pretty critical. Pots don't look right unless they're against a gradient backdrop. If a pot is on a flat color then it looks like it's floating in the air. A gradient grounds the pot. I shoot against a "thunder gray" Flotone backdrop from B&H. The smaller backdrop will barely accommodate my larger platters. The Flotone backdrop is beautiful, but it scratches easily. I figure I can get away with taking photos of thirty or forty pots before I need to replace the backdrop.

I intentionally use harsh lighting-- you may want to soften yours. An easy (but flammable) way is to tape sheets of white copy paper over the lamp shells. I've done this for brief stints, but I wouldn't do this for extended periods of time. I use harsh lighting because my pots are often very shiny in areas and very matte others. I like to bring this out by emphasizing the light reflection on the shiny parts. I used to shoot in a light tent and I found the resulting photos rather boring.

The final result is: www.flickr.com/photos/searleb/2133181112/. My setup is always changing as I need to photograph new and different pots!

Good luck, and if you try this technique, let me know!
-Brian 
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Comments

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Brian Lynn  Pro User  says:

I love the boom/broom stand! Now that is ingenious. Faved for reference.
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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andy stenz | photography says:

yeah, the broom idea is fantastic!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

Thanks, guys! Before I used the broom, I held the top lamp myself while shooting with a remote. The broom definitely speeds up a shooting session by cutting down on the trial and error.
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Blueelectrcstorm says:

I'm so glad you posted this, I've been really disappointed with the photos I'm taking of my pieces and am searching for ways to improve them. I really like the idea of a gradient background, it makes your photos so much more dynamic. Of course, it helps to have such fantastic subjects to photograph, your work is beautiful.
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

To tell you the truth, I've been developing my pottery style and photography style at the same time and so they are definitely playing off each other. For example, the reason why most of my recent work has both shiny and matte glazing is because I like how the variety of glazes photograph together. Also, the design of my handles and spouts changed when I started thinking about the negative space they'd create in a photo. In fact, lately I think about how I'm going to photograph a piece while I'm making and glazing it!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Bo Darville  Pro User  says:

Brian, cool shot, great set up.

Your notes show white work lights. What watt bulbs are they?
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

I use 100 watt incandescents that have that funny blue coat to them to "whiten" the light. They're a far cry from true full spectrum lights, but at 4 per $1 vs 1 per $10, I'll take the cheapies :). I shoot in raw so I'm not totally dead in the water if the camera makes a poor decision with the white balance. However, using better light bulbs would help some, I bet.

100 watts seems low, but it's pretty easy to overwhelm the pot with light. Also, I don't need to light specifically to get shutter speeds down since I'm not shooting handheld.
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Bo Darville  Pro User  says:

Great, I'll give it a try. Thanks!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

Good luck! Let me know how it turns out!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Richard and Cindy Krause  Pro User  says:

Just stumbled across your site.
Love all of it.
Great glazes!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate it!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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claygrl  Pro User  says:

Thanks Brian for all the great info! I ordered the same paper as you from B&H (you should go for a commission). I am in the process of borrowing some lights and hopefully by the end of the week I should be able to take some pot shots ...... Ha!
Cheers!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

Thanks! I look forward to seeing the results!
Posted 23 months ago. ( permalink )

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cydog66  Pro User  says:

I'm speechless, Brian :)
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

Thanks, Tony! Found your mugs yet? :)
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Marcfoto  Pro User  says:

Great setup - just regular bulbs? Seems like I have the most trouble with figuring out the proper lighting.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

Regular bulbs mean your downstream software has to do some white balancing (not too bad) and you lose a little colorspace. Since the bulbs are "fairly" white, the loss is pretty insubstantial. However, if I were more serious, I'd probably use real white light bulbs or better yet, decent strobes and umbrellas. I suspect that then the cost of running this rig would go up substantially.

As a side note, I just picked up some cheap $1 mirrors from Ikea (reflectors!) so this setup may change a little if I can use them well.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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.Duran says:

thanks for sharing, excellent job!!
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )

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Brian Searle  Pro User  says:

Thank you! Let me know if you try any of these techniques! -Brian
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )

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roddymac2002 says:

I want a airbrush again. Make any grad backdrop you want, any colour.
Posted 13 months ago. ( permalink )

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