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CCRRFD-Rnx Magnum - "How To Make It"

CCRRFD-Rnx Magnum - "How To Make It" by Photophool.
Update - February 5, 2009: If you like more style with your Phool's lighting, there is a new black version now. It's called the "Black Magic 32-Rnx". It's easy to make, works great, and is pretty darn cool-looking on your camera. You can see it here: www.flickr.com/photos/photophool/3256731051/in/photostream/.

A near zero cost solution to lighting Raynox DCR-250 macro and super macro subjects using the camera's on-board flash. For actual sample pics, search my photos with the key word MAGNUM or cruise the CCRRFD-Rnx set and look for the images marked with the "magnum" tag. You can also see my other styofoam macro-lighting solutions in the macro related "collection"

After quite a bit of real world usage, I've concluded that most users of the Raynox DCR-250 aux close-up lens will be well served by this simplified version of my styrofoam cup ringflash emulator. The stronger 32 ounce cup makes it sturdy. The use of a single cup makes it easy to construct. Using velcro dots to attach the contraption to the Raynox universal clip-on mount makes it easy to change and provides a break-away connection to keep the cup itself from breaking if you hit it on something.

This particular version is optimized for the DCR-250 and the Canon S2/S3/S5. However, it works well on my D70s with either the 70-300 Nikkor zoom or the 18-55mm kit lens. Strangely, the internal construction of the 18-70 Nikkor zoom is NOT well suited to the Raynox since it vignettes badly at all focal length settings. Because the physical diameter of the Raynox rear lens element is only 43mm, some vignetting will likely occur on any normal lens at a wide angle setting. This will disappear at approximately 27mm (35mm camera equivalent) and is rarely an issue for the small items you'll be "Raynoxing". For larger subjects, remove the Raynox and use my CCRRFDv2 styrofoam bowl ringflash emulator.

With a little fine-tuning in length, the concept should work fine for any camera/lens combination that can use the Raynox itself effectively. In addition, it should work well with other close-up aux lenses although the specific construction details may vary significantly.

The how-to images and steps follow below: 

Comments

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

Here's what you need to get started. One 32 ounce styrofoam drink cup, a hobby knife, ball point pen, a ruler marked in millimeters, and a bit of white glue (not shown). You can see I've already marked a cut-line at 117 millimeters from the cup base. This matches the length to the sharp-focus working distance of the Raynox DCR-250/Canon combination.

IMG_7913_wl_1

If you don't nick any fingers, this is the result of the first step.

IMG_7914_wl_2
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

In step two, we'll make the flash collection collar from the large end piece removed in the first step. First, insert the main body into the scrap piece as shown until it is snug and "square". It will not reach all the way to the desktop.

IMG_7915_wl_3

Next, turn the fitted pieces over and use the pen to mark a cut line on the scrap flush with the end of the main body.

IMG_7916_wl_4

Finally, cut the scrap piece along this line to create the finished flash collection collar. Since the blade tip and your fingers will be on the same side of the cup at times, please be especially careful.

IMG_7917_wl_5
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

In Step three, we'll prepare the bottom of the main body. First we'll cut out the bottom of the cup so it fits cleanly over the outer rim on the of the Raynox lens without interference.

IMG_7920_wl_7

Then, trim the short extended lip of the bottom flush with the hole we just made.

IMG_7922_wl_8

Now we'll finish this end by adding four velco dots at 90 degree spacing to match the dots we'll put on the Raynox mount itself. I suggest you put the "fuzzy" dots on the cup and the "hook" dots on the Raynox. The hook dots are stiffer and do not bend around the curves of the cup as nicely.

IMG_7923_wl_9

IMG_7926_9b

We're almost through and ready to start shooting. :-)))
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

To finish up, we only have to add a bit of white glue, slide the flash collection collar into place and let the contraption dry.

IMG_7924_9a

IMG_7933_wl_9c

Ta-Daaaa.... A brand new "Cheap Creative Rascals Ringflash Diffuser-emulator - Raynox Magnum" (CCRRFD-Rnx Magnum) is born. When the glue dries, mount it to the Raynox, put up your flash, crank on the zoom for desired magnification and fire away.

Just remember, the whole point of the DCR-250 is to shoot very small (about one inch x one inch max) things and smaller ones right down to the near microscopic. For larger subjects, you should use the cam's own macro capabilities and the bowl-based CCRRFDv2. At maximum 48x total zoom on the Canon, the full frame field of view of the Raynox DCR-250 will be approximately 3mm by 2mm. Here's one example of a full-frame max mag effort illuminated by the contraption we just built.

dead ant on sticky chickweed
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

It's kinda' late now so I'll save the usage tips for another post if anyone is interested in the information. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask. Thanks,

George
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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[Alreem]  Pro User  says:

great idea ,,
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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ConnieFK....PLS COMMENTS ONLY  Pro User  says:

Thank you.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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eye of einstein  Pro User  says:

thanks again George..
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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~~ Reza ~~ says:

I'll make one as soon as I get some time... Thanks.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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cajunlil says:

Very nice and NO blood droplets.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Dragan Fly  Pro User  says:

George, this is a wonderful tip. Thanks for sharing.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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D Westerman Bowen says:

Raynox dcr250 thread size 52 to 67mm on Amazon is 43.95. There are tons of these for different cameras around the same price. Sweet. I expected it to be much more. Thanks George. You Rock!!!!
www.amazon.com/Raynox-Macro-Scan-Conversion-U niversal-Dia...
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

@ shedriver: The Raynox universal mount that comes with the lens will fit standard threaded lens barrels from 52mm to 67mm. With some cameras such as the Canon S1/S2/S3/S5 siblings, the front of the lens barrel is not threaded and an adapter is required. I prefer the aluminum ones from www.lensmateonline over the plastic version from Canon.

If you don't want the bulk and convenience of the universal clip-on mount, you can also use a step-down ring that matches your lens threads on the outside and fits 43mm (the diameter of the rear threads on the Raynox aux lens itself) on the inside. I have one I use occasionally but much prefer the clip-on since I can move the contraption between lens/camera combinations quickly.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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digizen  Pro User  says:

My next planned purchases for my S3: 1) Light tent. 2) Raynox dcr250. 3) 32oz. Styrofoam cup. Thanks for the 1 cup tutorial!

--
Seen on a rss aggregator. (?)
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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whodatupdare says:

Excellent tute, George. My CCRRFD-Rnx works good -crude as it is- but I'll have to make this one.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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dreamscapepics  Pro User  says:

I am faving and bookmarking this...it is pure genius!!!
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Anti_Yo // No videos on Flickr  Pro User  says:

Nice pic and idea
Thanks for you comment.
Best regards

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Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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KM Preston Photography  Pro User  says:

Thanks for the tutorial George ~ you are the McGuvyer of photography! This lesson this is very helpful - now if I can make it without cutting off my fingers :)
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

Please do not defingerfy yourself. I haven't done it yet (recently at least). :-)))
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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mimbrava  Pro User  says:

When are you going to start mass producing these, George?

Thanks for the excellent tutorial. Faved and bookmarked.

--
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Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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peakbagger_trin says:

Excellent walkththrough! I will see if I can adapt it for my MSN-202...what was the actual size of the ant in the example photograph?
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

@ peakbagger trin: As noted above, at maximum zoom (12x optical + 4x digital = 48x total), the Canon's FOV through the Raynox DCR-250 is 3mm on the long side and 2mm on the short side of the uncropped frame. The ant almost completely fills the image from side to side so it is something less than 3mm in body length not counting antenna and legs(both kinda folded back and in here). The image below is the one I made to show the scale of the stemlet and the ant itself.

IMG_8438_wl
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Metamorphzz  Pro User  says:

very interesting George! thanks...
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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raineys  Pro User  says:

You are so inspiring...I am going to have to try this one!!!
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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bodofotoz says:

Most ingenius, Mr. Phool!
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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eos1954 says:

KM Preston has hit it on the head - Mc Guyver of photography :)))
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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kreg.steppe  Pro User  says:

Photophool...you made it on MakeZine.
blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/04/diy_macro_l ighting_usin...
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

Thanks for the heads-up.

makezine_crop
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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tomquah  Pro User  says:

interesting and smart idea, it works, that's most important. i like your closeup shots.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Gúnna  Pro User  says:

Wow - that is so cool What a great lesson.
You are a genius George.
Have a good weekend.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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~Sage~  Pro User  says:

Problem solver par excellence! I always get vignetting with the Raynox 250 on my fz7.

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Seen on blog.makezine.com (?)
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

Hi Sage: The 250 will produce vignetting at focal lengths of 26mm or less (35mm cam eq). It usually disappears by the time zoom (or prime lens focal length) reaches 27mm (35mm equiv). As noted in the main write-up above, my Nikkor 18-70 D70 kit lens vignettes horribly at all focal lengths due, I assume, to the internal design.
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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thru jens eyes  Pro User  says:

you are just too darn cool!!!!!!!!!!!!
:))))))))
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Kika BR  Pro User  says:

WOW! I love you, you're my hero :-))
Thanks a lot!
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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Starfall. says:

wow, like a McGyver!
good idea, now where to find a cup like this..
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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sk3l  Pro User  says:

Hey lovely idea ... i made one inspired from your idea .... chk it out ....
www12.flickr.com/photos/sk3l/2387768687/
Posted 21 months ago. ( permalink )

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UMIMM (HAPPY) says:

bravo as soon i will try! …thanks tis is a good tip
Posted 20 months ago. ( permalink )

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zxgirl  Pro User  says:

Wonderful idea, tutorial, and example! I think I need some fast food tonight...
Posted 20 months ago. ( permalink )

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maccu says:

Fantastic! very nice idea!
Posted 20 months ago. ( permalink )

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maccu says:

Hi, I'm an admin for a group called nOiSE and bEEr - Fischi & Birra, and we'd love to have this added to the group!
Posted 20 months ago. ( permalink )

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phantom kitty  Pro User  says:

oh genius...
bet you get some strange looks too!
Posted 19 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

@ phantom kitty: Yes...but they don't laugh at the results. :-)))
Posted 19 months ago. ( permalink )

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zxgirl  Pro User  says:

You know, I've been looking for one of these since I found your How-to, here, but it seems they've switched to making them all plastic, not styrofoam. :-/
Posted 19 months ago. ( permalink )

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Anil Rajah says:

tks in bulk. for sharing this...
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )

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RAUL/Imagina says:

Hi, I'm an admin for a group called Iluminación - How to Setup, Light & Shoot Great - (1post:2Com, and we'd love to have this added to the group!
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )

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wnelweb  Pro User  says:

This is just the coolest thing!
Posted 14 months ago. ( permalink )

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Tony625 says:

I tried to follow your steps and am a little confused, perhaps I missed something. Ok, so this is a diffuser, saves you money by not buying an expensive diffuser. My confusion is, when you use this method of diffusing, it seems from your photos, that it would be prone to vignetting by blocking the flash. I own a canon XSi with separate flash, and I own a Canon PS2, like the one in your photos, and I am certain from what I see, that this will cause a shadow or vignette from the foam.

I am probably wrong, but please help me understand where I might be wrong. Thanks
Posted 12 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

@ tony625: If a friend of mine had not picked the name for the CCRRFD, it wouldn't even have "diffuser" associated with it. As you note, it will diffuse and soften the flash burst but that is a side effect...not a design parameter. The sole purpose of all of the CCRRFD variants is to emulate a ringflash and allow you to illuminate extreme macro shots with the camera's on-board flash.

At the close distances normally involved, the vignetting effect will not have anything to do with the lighting on the subject itself since the entire image will be within the central area of the reduced flash-burst.

The way the gizmo works is by collecting the direct light from the flash, passing it through the foam of the body where it bounces all around inside. In the process, it illuminates the subject from all sides.

As you know, the S2/S3/S5 siblings will actually focus right to the front surface of the lens (zero distance) in supermacro mode. Using an older styro bowl-based version of the thing, I was able to light up a mosquito larva that became stuck to the front element when I got too close to the droplet of water in which he was isolated.

The CCRRFD version described in this "how-to" is designed specifically for use with the Raynox DCR-250 aux close-up lens. Under max zoom, the actual physical area covered by an un-cropped image is only 3mm wide x 2 mm high. At such high magnification, the use of the flash/cup combination is critical to the elimination of hand-shake, subject movement, and allowing F8 for maximum DOF.

If you search my stream for the tag/text CCRRFD, you'll see many examples of how the thing works on actual usage. If you have any other questions about the device or how to use it with your own equipment, please feel free to ask.

Merry Christmas,
George
Posted 12 months ago. ( permalink )

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osvchic says:

Hi George! I was directed to your invention by another macro-enthusiast, Ivoryhut. I received a Raynox 250 for Christmas and I am looking forward to using it. I have an Olympus sp560 (similar to the Canon S5) and I'm just wondering how I can find out what the optimum length for this would be for my camera. I use an adapter tube to attach the Raynox to my camera. Any hints on how to decide? Do you think I could just follow your directions explicitly?
Posted 12 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

@osvchic: Lemme give it a little bit of thought. I'm stopped at a Texas rest stop right now and will give you some info later this evening if connectivity is available around Canton, Texas. I don't really forsee a problem.

George
Posted 12 months ago. ( permalink )

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osvchic says:

Thanks George. Your photos are unbelievable. I hope I am some day able to figure out how to do such incredible close-up photography. At this point, with my newness to all this, I'm unable to come anywhere near the pictures you've taken despite the sp560 having an 18x optical zoom.
Posted 12 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

@ osvchic: I've sent you a flickrmail with some more details but I expect the design shown above in the "how-to" will work fine for you and the SP560 without modification. If it doesn't, we should be able to fix it so it will.
Posted 12 months ago. ( permalink )

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Ted_Roger_Karson  Pro User  says:

I just bought a Panasonic FZ28 and a Raynox DCR-250. I tried many things to correct the half ring shadow. Curved bounce cards worked OK sometimes. A good solution for this problem seemed very remote, until I discovered your information. I am going to explore this technology. I have some time in perfecting this concept to my equipment, since in northern Illinois this February 2009 we have only a few insects now and then.
I still believe the big camera companies should address this serious problem, instead of leaving it up to their customers to find a solution!
I really appreciate your help.
Posted 11 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

@ Ted Roger Karson: If you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask either in-stream or via flickr-mail.
Posted 11 months ago. ( permalink )

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William V says:

Very good Idea, Thanks!
Posted 11 months ago. ( permalink )

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Jen likes to snap pics*  Pro User  says:

HOW COOL!! I'm going to try this on the weekend!
Posted 11 months ago. ( permalink )

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images_moments says:

Great, now I have something brilliant to make this sunday afternoon.

Thanks!
Posted 10 months ago. ( permalink )

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justapasserby says:

it's a great idea, however, i still couldn't figure how the flash collection collar really work. i mean, from the picture u showed, i don't see how the flash can be "collected" or "directed" to the subject??
Posted 10 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

The way all of the ccrrfd variations work is by collecting the direct light from the flash, passing it through the foam of the body where it bounces all around inside. In the process, it illuminates the subject from all sides.

In this variation, the collector collars increase both the diameter of the outer end and provide more surfaces for the flash-tube burst to hit. This increases the amount of light penetrating inside the cup.

If you have any questions or need help making something for your own camera, please let me know. I'll be happy to help if I can.

George
Posted 10 months ago. ( permalink )

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mhlau999 says:

George
I have been frogging around for a very long time trying to figure out how to get enough light for a macro photo. I went to Micky D's for lunch and bought a sweet tea.....hot digity I have my light defuser.....Thank you very much it works outstanding......
Posted 9 months ago. ( permalink )

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Photophool  Pro User  says:

I hope you enjoy it. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask either in-stream or via flickr-mail.

George
Posted 9 months ago. ( permalink )

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