Nepal - Island Peak - 009 - Climbing the sumnmit headwall

My guide Kami Sherpa and I (red rope) taking the passing lane climbing the summit headwall while the guide of another group sets up a fixed line for his team.

Feeling strong and comfortable on the slope, AngKami and I climbed up alpine style, setting a running belay along the ridge above. It was a really nice climb with lots of little shelves and steps to take the weight off front-pointing and not as steep as reported. The only hard part was a light rain of ice pellets and chunks down the channel from the 2 guys above me, but under my helmet and shell and concentrating on that funny little breathing thing, I only mostly noticed when trying to look up for shots like this! ;-) At probably 6100m now, I was definitely feeling the shortness of breath.

The summit headwall is about 100m high. Perhaps 45 degrees, Most guided groups, particularly if you're new to mountaineering, will use fixed ropes to climb - easy, but slow. But if you've done mountaineering before, it is a nice, straightforward climb alpine style.

We got a simply fantastic morning for the climb, crystal clear as you can see, perfect climbing conditions.