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Untitled | by Lou O' Bedlam
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This is the only kind of photo I want to take, right now. I want to be at the beach every day and futz around in the water with a camera in my hand while the afternoon light makes all my shots better than they would normally be.

 

I think it's something to do with having taken up surfing, my relationship to the beach has done a complete 180. Hated the sand, the water, the distance, the difficulty getting an evenly-lit shot.

 

Now I get pissy if I go more than two days without being in the ocean, I'm sitting on my board for ten minute stretches watching dolphins swim near shore, I insist on taking my shoes off when I'm shooting at the beach so I can stand in the surf, and the lighting is never anything but a gleeful challenge.

 

All these years there was a surf bum in me, just waiting to come out. All it took was actually getting out into the water, spending some real time sitting on a board, contemplating it all, learning to read the waves, get used to being on the water, feeling the thrum of the ocean underneath me, experiencing the thrill of standing on a wave while it propels me towards the shore.

 

Suppose I should start learning to rob banks, next...

 

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Taken on January 23, 2011