One hundred and twenty four steps lead up to the west front of this important church, which being alongside The Capitol (Rome Town Hall) serves a civic role on great occasions. Not so many steps to the SE corner, off the main Piazza (Campidoglio). It is also unfortunately sited alongside the massive the huge white marble monument to the first king of all Italy, Victor Emmanuel II. (There were only 4 - Umberto, VEIII and UII). It is the site of the Temple of Juno, and the 22 columns are all ancient although from a variety of sites. The ceiling of the late C16 commemorates the Battle of Lepanto (1571). One of my main memories here is of the absurd number of crystal chandeliers in the church, including thirty split around the east and west "crossing" arches. There is also a large collection of monuments, the best a beautiful effigy and early 14th century tomb of Cardinal Matteo d'Acquasparta (died 1303), with a mosaic attributed to Cavallini, a style I was to see in several other major churches, and the best preserved. Also here one of the amazing marble floors.
