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These lantern slides were donated to the American Alpine Club Library and were formerly in the possession of Allen Carpé.

Allen Carpé took part in the first ascent of Canada’s Mount Logan in 1925. All these slides are from that expedition and the captions come from Carpé’s own notes written on the slides, or from the Canadian Alpine Journal 1925.

The Mount Logan expedition was led by A. H. MacCarthy of the Canadian Alpine Club and included members of both the American and British Alpine Clubs. MacCarthy first had to explore an approach route to the mountain in 1924 and he returned during the winter to lay down caches of equipment and food.

Mount Logan's summit was reached by Carpé and most of the rest of the team on June 23rd after nearly two months of approach travel and climbing.

To return from the mountain two rafts were constructed to float the Chitina River 80 miles to the town of McCarthy. Carpé's raft was pulled into the strong main channel of the river and overturned, destroying most of his photos. He and two other climbers endured a 70 mile walk back to town, arriving just as a search party was preparing to depart to find them.

Due to the loss of Carpé's own photos, those presented here were mostly taken by other members of the expedition.

Mr. Carpé also explored the Canadian Rockies and took part in expeditions to Mount Fairweather (finally achieving the first ascent in 1931). He worked as a research electrical engineer for American Telegraph and Telephone (AT&T) and served on the editorial board in the early years of the American Alpine Journal (1929-1931).

Allen Carpé died on Mount McKinley in 1932 during an expedition to measure cosmic radiation.

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items are from between 29 Jul 2008 & 31 Jul 2008.
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