St Medoc's Chapel near Monreith
Location: Kirkmaiden-in-Ferness, near Monreith, Wigtownshire,
Scotland, UK
Date of Photograph: am 2 April 1999
OS Grid Reference: NX365399
Co-ordinates:54:43:41N: 4:32:21W
Elevation: 37 meters
This lovely sanctuary is the second landfall of the Irish missionary nun St Medoc ( variously Medana, Madoc, Madin, etc. )
This is at Kirkmaiden-in-Ferness in The Machar of Wigtownshire on the Eastern side of Luce Bay. There is a larger Kirkmaiden: Kirkmaiden-in-Rhinns or Kirkmaiden of Drummore ten miles West on the Western side of Luce Bay, and in the South Rhinns region of The Mull of Galloway. The two places are intimately associated with the same woman, as shall become apparent.
The literal meaning of “Kirkmaiden” in Scots English is “Church of the Virgin”.
In a legend typical for Dark Age foundations by females, and little varied, the beautiful seventh-century princess and Christian convert sailed from her native land, pursued by an ardent but noble-born soldier, who wished her to wed. The pious lady settled her handmaidens in a cave near East Tarbet Bay in the South Rhinns, the nearest British landfall. Her suitor, however, soon reappeared, and the alarmed saint stepped on a stone that floated her and her party across Luce Bay to the desolate spot that shall ever bear her cell.
Not to be discouraged, her gentleman took himself to her refuge on the Ferness cliffs. Exasperated, Medoc asked him what he found so attractive about her. He replied “Your Eyes” whereupon the holy woman plucked them out and threw them at his feet. He fled in horror.
Nearby, overflowing the cliff, Medoc felt a small spring that shall now bear her name forever, and washing her bleeding sockets in its waters her sight was miraculously restored. She then traveled all over Scotland founding churches and bringing the Light of Christ to its benighted peoples.
The seaward ruin is of unknown date and sometimes described as “Norman” but may have been built during the Canmore era of Scottish kingship, say about nine hundred years ago. At any event, the church is first written of in 1386. It is of course dedicated to St Medana. Celto-Catholic fabrics were ill suited to the Presbyterian Reformed religion of Scotland, and in 1638 the little cliff-top chapel was abandoned in favor of a new church at NX12453692: The so-called “Old Church of Kirkmaiden” at that other Kirkmaiden in the Rhinns. Readers should note that at these times, ordinary travel was by sea, and locals would not have thought twice about commuting the ten miles across the misty bay to a place otherwise intervisible from the settlement they were at.
Victorian archaeologists identified a number of further anchoritic cells, including a St Catherine’s Chapel, in the near vicinity of St Medoc’s. ( St Catherine, who was of course Alexandrian, was a favorite choice for chapels that could be used as seamarks by mariners ). The dimensions of the Medieval St Medoc’s church ruin are 14.5 meters East to West by six meters by 0.3 meters high.
The Early Christian cross slab IB33 may have come from St Medoc’s Chapel and may now be found in The Royal Museum of Scotland at Edinburgh.
The slate-roofed mausoleum at the Eastern end of the structure, with its fine reproduction Norman archway of ferruginous sandstone, was erected in Late Victorian times. It accommodates the dead of the local lordly family, the Maxwells of Monreith. The last immuration was of the naturalist Sir Herbert Maxwell in 1937. Sir Herbert used to delight in pointing-out a large flat rock on the shore below the chapel, which, he said conveyed the holy company of Medoc across the briny bay. Perhaps the most famous Maxwell scion was the author, adventurer, anthropologist and naturalist Gavin Maxwell ( 1914-1968 ) whose books include “Ring of Bright Water” ( 1960 ), “People of the Reeds” and “The Rocks Remain”. Gavin is buried at Sandaig in Invernesshire, but a bronze otter gazes over the chapel from the knoll above in her master’s memory. There are two cross slabs in the chancel.
The graveyard is of considerable antiquarian interest in its own right. Archaeologists have detected the foundations of three further structures, one at least as big as the Medieval chapel. Amongst the graves may be found that of the French sailor Francois Thurot ( 1727-1760), sometime privateer and smuggler, who became a major hero of the Seven Years War ( called in the US The French and Indian Wars ). His body was washed ashore here after a local skirmish with elements of The Royal Navy under Elliott. He was buried honorably by the contemporary Maxwell laird, and in 1960 the Swedish Order of Coldin installed a wall plaque on the chapel in memory of their French founder. A French naval delegation paid their respects in 1967, and it is good to note that the freemasons of Carrickfergus are on the best of terms with their Swedish brethren, after Thurot famously raided their Antrim port!
The Machar of Wigtownshire is alive with the Abiding Spirits of the men and women who came to convert Scotland to Christ during the Dark Ages. Nine miles along the coast to the North, on a spectacular raised beach, lie the chapel and well of St Finbar, whilst four and a half miles South behind the beach is St Ninian’s Cave where he first settled to pray before founding his cathedral and monastery at Whithorn, five and a half miles East of St Medoc’s. This bridgehead of evangelism in Scotland survived the Reformation to remain, 1500 years after inception, a magnet to Christian pilgrims Worldwide.
Perhaps Burns should have the final words, today too apt:-
“ Hear, Land o’ Cakes, an’ brither Scots,
Frae Maidenkirk to Jonnie Groat’s,
If there’s a hole in a’ your coats,
Indeed you tent it,
A chield’s amang you takin notes,
And faith he’ll prent it ”
Comments and faves
dobienet, sadie olive, Nina_Michelle, dougiebeck, and 19 other people added this photo to their favorites.
bsmith4815 (58 months ago | reply)
i have no idea, but its an amazing and beautiful place!
lapsuskalamari (58 months ago | reply)
Thank you, bsmith4815
You are right: It is a very beautiful place, hidden away behind a rise in the road, and virtually unknown, even to locals
Drewhound (58 months ago | reply)
West side of Scotland?
lapsuskalamari (58 months ago | reply)
The West side of Scotland is a big place, Drewhound, but you are right!
The Match, of course, awaits greater precision
Brenden Preece (58 months ago | reply)
Is the the Kirkmaiden Chapel near the Gavin Maxwell memorial at Monreith?
Drewhound (58 months ago | reply)
I believe Brenden has narrowed it down for me ;-)
lapsuskalamari (58 months ago | reply)
Yes, Brenden
This is the Chapel of St Medoc ( variously Medana,Medan, Madin, etc. ) near Monreith in Wigtownshire
Well done
The Match is yours
Seoirse (58 months ago | reply)
This would be an excellent shot for "History" with some descriptive text/ link for more detailed info.
lapsuskalamari (58 months ago | reply)
Yes, thank you, Seoirse, I agree
I have been tied up this Summer, but I am starting work on another tranche of blurbs and will write one for this
The "History" Administrator has not yet decided whether I am a fit and proper person to join the group :-(
dobienet (58 months ago | reply)
Stunning shot.
lapsuskalamari (58 months ago | reply)
Thank you, dobienet, and thank you also for your Favorite
mrfrenchbloke [deleted] (58 months ago | reply)
the bronze otter is on the hill above the church. it's a great place but watch out for adders. it's literally a case of blink and you miss it as it's un marked from the road and is accessible via the road that leads toward the golf course, which passes the gavin maxwell memorial parking/passing space. It's easily accessible from the beach up some steps and along a rather dark wooded area. i've just uploaded a photo of how it looks as of july 2007 for comparison, as well as the aforementioned otter statue. and to show just how hidden the place is, there's a photo of the roof peeking out from the all the trees, as seen from the beach
lapsuskalamari (58 months ago | reply)
Thank you, mrfenchbloke
That is a very helpful description of how to find the bronze otter. I cannot remember seeing it when I was at Monreith in 1999, and I probably missed it for the very difficulties that you describe.
I do remember that I found difficulty finding the little road down to the golf club, and then had difficulty finding an acceptible place to park.
I hope that I shall visit The Machar again, and when I do I shall make a point of seeing the otter.
Thank you for your note, and I hope you enjoyed my picture. I am going to have a look at yours.
mrfrenchbloke [deleted] (58 months ago | reply)
it's easier to find if you follow the directions for st. medan's golf club. you can see the church from the road but no noticeable way in from there, although a path opposite the golf club car park leads the way (I found it on the way out rather than navigate the steps down to the beach) - direction are found on www.stranraer.org/golf/st_medan_golf_club.htm l - I'll upload the rather friendly adder warning sign.
lapsuskalamari (58 months ago | reply)
Thank you, mrfrenchbloke
I will have a look at the Golf Club site
If I go again I shall watch out for the adders! The last one I saw ( must be a good eleven or twelve years since ) was basking in the sun on Cannock Chase.
An enormous old male, he was right beside the path and did not feel my approach. He coiled to strike ( we were only 20 cms apart ) so I said "Don't You Hiss at Me" in an indignant tone, and he uncoiled and slithered into a bracken patch.
lapsuskalamari (55 months ago | reply)
Thank you for youFavorite, Tradewinds Svengali
lapsuskalamari (55 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your Favorite, sadieolive
lapsuskalamari (54 months ago | reply)
Thank you, nina michelle, for your Favorite
LeszekZadlo (53 months ago | reply)
Hi, I'm an admin for a group called 100 + Viewed Best Architecture Photos (add 1, award 1), and we'd love to have your photo added to the group.
This is an invitation for all Your photos viewed 100 or more times.
lapsuskalamari (53 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your Favorite, dougiebeck
lapsuskalamari (52 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your Favorite, waiting...ontheworldtochange
lapsuskalamari (52 months ago | reply)
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aqualite (51 months ago | reply)
I remember this place, I was last here in April 2002. Every easter from 1998-2002 we used to go on holiday to Monreith House in a country estate just outside Port William, which was owned by the Maxwell family. The estate was full of lush albeit neglected gardens full of tropical plants which over the years have grown wildly out of control.
lapsuskalamari (51 months ago | reply)
Yes, it is a very mild place and exotic plants can grow well. There is another tropical garden ( a tended one ) across the bay at Port Logan
lapsuskalamari (50 months ago | reply)
Thanl you for your Favorite, iamsonofthesea
lapsuskalamari (49 months ago | reply)
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lapsuskalamari (49 months ago | reply)
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lapsuskalamari (49 months ago | reply)
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mrfrenchbloke [deleted] (48 months ago | reply)
there's an updated (as of today) photo here :flickr.com/photos/11387895@N08/2604731800/in/ photostream
lapsuskalamari (47 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your Favorite, Gracie421
lapsuskalamari (47 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your updated picture, mrfrenchbloke
It is good to see that there have been few changes, save for the dispersal of the fog!
And the recovery of the verdure
Singne (41 months ago | reply)
What a treasure to come across, both the photo and your wonderfully interesting description.
I visited the area last year for a very short time, but not this place. My grandmother's people were from Mochrum and Port William with some being born in Monreith Cottage, so it must in the same general area.
lapsuskalamari (41 months ago | reply)
Thank you very much for your kind comments, and your Favorite, Singne
It is a lovely and holy place and I hope you get the opportunity to visit it. I found it by accident. It is in a very sequestered site
Singne (41 months ago | reply)
thank you lapsuskalamari - I will certainly try to go there, and will take your description and history along with me.
lapsuskalamari (39 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your Favorite, claire lucido
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Unicornicus (38 months ago | reply)
Whoa, this is kinda weird. I'm a Maxwell. This explains why we have a book on our family's history that's two inches thick. This is most definitely more than slightly weird.
lapsuskalamari (34 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your Favorite, iluvretro
lapsuskalamari (30 months ago | reply)
Thank you for your Favorite, teletchefir
JenthePen (25 months ago | reply)
Hi, I'm an admin for a group called Legend says..., and we'd love to have this added to the group!
ragnoilds (2 months ago | reply)
My 5th great grandfather, Francois Thurot, is buried across Luce Bay at the other Kirkmaiden. His plaque, from The order of Coldin, is on the wall of the Maxwell family crypt. Monreith is also on the east side of the bay. This shot is of Kirkmaiden on the west side.