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Lanin Volcano, Lake District, Argentina

I don´t know what´s wrong with me but today I eagerly

agree to climb to the base of a volcano. Could have

had an easy day pottering around San Martin de los

Andes, but no, I decided I needed a challenge (and I

do need the practise for my 8-hour trekking days in

Torres del Paine later this month). Lanin is the

highest volcano in the area at 3776 metres, and means

both ´dead rock´ and something like ´greedy bugger´ in

Mapuche, as it hasn´t erupted in over 200 years but

has two craters. It´s half the size of Aconcagua, the

highest mountain in South America, and takes 3 days to

climb to the summit. The south face requires technical

gear like ice axes and crampons etc.

 

The bus stops at Junin de los Andes, another small

town in the lake district, for lunch before heading to

Lanin volcano. Poplar spores fill the air like

snowflakes giving the place an ethereal feel. We also

make another stop at the trout farm but it´s closed as

it´s too early in the season.

 

On the drive to Lanin, I smell burning and the bus

conks out. Apparently the driver didn´t notice that

the oil had run out and kept on driving. This means we

need to walk 2-3 km to the start of the walk to base

camp. It´s hot, dry and dusty and the rocky road seems

endless.

 

I´m exhausted by the time I arrive and have

accomplished nothing. Would prefer to sit and have

coffee and cake but that´s not an option so grudgingly

begin the walk to the base of the volcano.

 

The first half of the walk, which takes about 45

minutes, is delightful as it´s through shady forest.

On emerging through the trees, I see Lanin

majestically draped with ribbons of snow. It´s still a

fair way to the treeline though and this is where the

walking gets difficult. I´m determined to reach the

snow so plough through the lunar landscape of rocks

and volcanic sand in the heat. It´s all uphill for

another half an hour until I realise the snow is a lot

further away than it looks. I console myself with

having at least reached the treeline at 1800 metres.

 

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Uploaded on November 10, 2006
Taken on January 3, 2004