Zhenyuan, Guizhou Province - Dragon Boat racing on the Wuyang River: 5
Zhenyuan is an ancient Han garrison town on the Wuyang River in N-E Guizhou Province. It sits in a canyon, spans the river and covers only 3 square Km. Its setting is beautiful, as the whole town is in tiers, overlooking the intense green-blue waters of the Wuyang River. It is linked by two or three modern bridges, an ancient Qing Dynasty stone bridge, and a tiny ferry-boat. Zhenyuan's climate is sub-tropical.
The population is substantially made up of Miao and Dong (ethnic minority) people; to me their customs and dress are indistinguishable, but their features are rather different (although they all look the same to the Han!). As ethic minorities, they are spared the "one family, one child" law, so the town. and the river, teem with happy children. Westerners are almost unknown in Zhenyuan, so many children followed us around and played games with us. Both Miao and Dong are very fond of dancing and music - which resembles western pop music rather than traditional Han music.
The major cultural event in the town centre is the Dragon Boat races on May 25th, but these races are rehearsed and re-enacted in costume on virtually every weekend. Zhenyuan is an excellent place to experience the day-to-day life of southern China at close quarters with its friendly people.
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