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Q&A Thread
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Please feel free to post your questions about the quilt-along here!
Here are a few that I'm bringing over from the blog:
Q: How many different solids are you using?
A: I'm using one or two different solids per different-colored line, depending on what I have on hand and how many total solids of that particular color are needed. You can use as many or few as you want.
Q: How was the proportion of solid to print fabrics determined? Do I have to follow it?
A: It was determined by how I wrote the pattern. The block patterns will tell you where to place prints and where to place solids, based on what I think will look good. There's nothing saying you have to follow my pattern though, so don't hesitate to make whatever revisions you want on your own quilt.
Q: Can you tell me how to make a pattern that's a map of a different subway system (e.g. the London Underground)?
A: My quilt isn't an actual map of anything. It was simply inspired by the Tokyo Subway Map. If you're looking to make a quilt inspired by a different transit system, I would suggest that you, similarly, use the system's map as inspiration, rather than trying to copy it in fabric. Beyond that, it's really just like making any other quilt pattern. Get some graph paper and colored pencils or your favorite software and just start drawing!
Q: Will you put together a fabric kit? Will you make a list of the fabric you're using?
A: No. This isn't aimed at making things difficult for you, but I'm not a fabric seller. I would also like to encourage everyone to work with what they have, since this is really a scrap quilt.
I did start a thread about fabrics here, which you can use to discuss fabric among yourselves: www.flickr.com/groups/tokyosubwaymap/discuss/721576247250...
Please leave any additional questions in this thread. Thanks!
Originally posted at 6:16PM, 1 September 2010 PDT
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Oh, Fransson! edited this topic 17 months ago.
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I find lining up my blocks difficult when I press seams open. Do you see any reason why pressing seams to alternate sides and nesting would not be advisable (besides probably taking more time)?
Posted 21 months ago.
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ooo good question i like to alternate my seams too
Posted 21 months ago.
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I do think there's a time and place for side-pressing. I just wouldn't recommend it for this project.
While I side-press in certain instances (paper piecing, curves, etc.) I don't ever nest my seams. My take is that nesting is an inherently inaccurate method, because the bulk from butting the seams will always keep the seams themselves (i.e. the breaks between joined pieces) from lining up exactly.
When you're matching pieced units with open-pressed seams, all you have to do is line up the open-pressed seams (so, literally, line up the breaks between the pieces of fabric). I find this to be a more accurate method, because you don't have any extra seam allowance bulk preventing them from lining up. It's more work to match pressed seams, because you do have to look closely, rather than just feeling where the seams nest but, again, I think it's more accurate in the end. I also think it looks better, because your block will lay flat. It should also make quilting easier.
If you're having trouble matching your open-pressed seams, it may mean any of the following:
-- Your blocks/units were warped during pressing (too much ironing and steam, or patchwork units cut not quite on grain?)
-- Your seams aren't quite straight (try a seam or tape guide?)
-- Your seam allowance isn't consistent (practice and/or test out a different foot?)
Side-pressing tends to be quicker and more forgiving and, if it's your method of choice already, there's no reason why you can't use it for this project. I just encourage you to keep in mind that, with so many little squares, that extra bulk is going to add up fast.
Posted 21 months ago.
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I haven't cut 100 squares and I'm finding it difficult. What is the easiest way to do this?
Posted 21 months ago.
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Since I used the black background instead of the white, I can't see and thing when I try to line them up. There is zippo contrast. I suspect the most important thing must be adequate lighting, which I don't have. That and the fact that my machine is unhappy and I can't us my usual foot right now because the needle won't move side to side. Following a line of tape is not my strong point. Time for a trip to the sewing machine hospital.
Posted 21 months ago.
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Cindy, I'm not exactly sure what you mean . . . If you're talking about the white background squares, I would recommend cutting them as I described in my post about supplies -- by cutting strips 2" x width of fabric and then subcutting those into 2" squares. If your fabric is at least 42" wide, you should be able to get 20 squares from each strip.
Jellybean, I think you're right about maybe needing more lighting, because it shouldn't be that much more difficult to match seam allowances in black fabric. (Of course, if your machine needs service, definitely take it in. It will make a world of difference!)
Good luck!
Posted 21 months ago.
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Perhaps it is my well over 40 year old eyeballs, too.
Posted 21 months ago.
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I am not sure if I missed this bit of information, but how frequently will you be posting each block? I feel like I am stalking your blog, I can't wait for the next block to come out. I am so loving this quilt, it is going to hang on the wall in my sewing room, unless of course one of the kids decides it 'MINE'. I just might have to make two of them.
Posted 21 months ago.
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QuiltSewScrap, I am doing the same thing. I just love the design of this quilt and my sewing room is also a guest bedroom. I don't have a headboard in there and figured that this quilt will be perfect. (I am also stalking the blog looking for the next block). I need to get a life.
Posted 21 months ago.
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I'm sorry for the delay, folks! The next two blocks are up.
www.ohfransson.com/oh_fransson/2010/09/tokyo-subway-map-b...
Posted 21 months ago.
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I am totally stalking the blog too! I am just so excited to work on this one!
Posted 21 months ago.
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I've just started collecting my fabrics. I'm thinking of using the interfacing method to attach them together. Can you think of any reason this method won't work? Would you recommend I still make one block at a time or should I go for larger areas with this method?
Posted 21 months ago.
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There are two main reasons that I'm not using the interfacing method for the entire quilt:
1. I don't want that much interfacing (because I think it would be heavy to have it under the entire quilt top).
2. My experience with the interfacing method is that it's prone (at least when I do it!) to producing slightly wonky seams, which doesn't make much difference when there's sashing between blocks, but could make it difficult to piece finished blocks together. Basically, I find that, while the interfacing method is faster, I find that I get more accuracy with old-fashioned patchwork piecing so, because of the scale of this project, I'm opting to go with what, for me, will be the most accurate method.
That said, there's no reason for you to NOT use the interfacing method, if it works better for you. I don't think I would make the blocks any larger though. I suspect that, the smaller the blocks, the more accurate they're likely to be.
Good luck!
Originally posted 21 months ago.
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Oh, Fransson! edited this topic 21 months ago.
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I have to agree, I did a mini quilt using the interfacing method and it had wonkier seams than regular piecing. I din't fin it much faster either, only a little bit.
Posted 21 months ago.
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Hi
I am trying the interfacing method- a new method for me. Yes my seams are a bit wonky- but less so than my usual piecing!!
I've posted the pics on my blog:
quiltitis.blogspot.com/2010/09/tokyo-subway-quilt-progres...
Hope that some people visit.
Di
Posted 21 months ago.
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newbie to this site, i love it, never heard of this interfacing method. but i am sure if i stay tuned i will figure it out ! love the tokyo subway project.
thanks for the "freshness"
Posted 21 months ago.
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I should have said that the link is not just for pictures, but how I did the interfacing method.
what I have learned as I have done more blocks is to move my needle so that I get an even 1/4" seam when I line up with the inside edge of my walking foot.
i'm not sure how my first few blocks will piece together, it may be a little interesting. .... but then what are new projects for but to learn new things??
Di
Posted 21 months ago.
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this interfacing method just appears to be piecing, or another name for it. putting a foundation down right?...ive done that, its pretty cool. my little featherwieght does very well with this kind of work. i use it almost exclusively for piecing. ty so much for "allowing" me to press the seams open. such freedom and wantoness !!!!
Posted 21 months ago.
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Cutting the squares:
There are cutters with dies that cut little squares out...our local quilt shop has one and for a small fee will cut your fabric. If they do not have the dies with small squares, using the 2" strip die then laying the cut strips at right angles and running them through the cutter again works at least as well!
Guilds sometimes own a die cutter as well.
Posted 20 months ago.
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I've gone with interfacing facing and want to share what I've learned that is working well for me.
1. I bought preprinted Quilt Fuse 2 and for some reason my blocks weren't square. I measured the preprinted fusing and it turns out that it's out of square to begin with a 16 1/4" x 16" for an 8x8 section. If you use preprinted fusing measure it first and keep the off side all oriented the same direction.
2. I've been cutting all of my seams open. Instead of a scant seam, I go for a slightly wider and consistent seam, then trim 1mm off at the fold and press the seam open. It seems to lie much better than way and the cross sewn strips are more consistent.
Posted 20 months ago.
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Ah! I just read 's post. It seams we're doing things similarly. I use my fabric guillotine to trim open my folded seams though because it lets me get a perfect straight scant line. (http://badskirt.blogspot.com/2010/08/chop-chop-chop-on-fabric-guillotines.html)
I'm using my 1/4" foot. Is your quilt fuse out in one direction? Would you mind measuring 8 square x 8 square swatches for me before you use it? I think it's out to cope with seams being pressed instead of opened.
It's nice to see we had the same idea!
Posted 20 months ago.
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Hi Amy
Just measured the Quiltfuse, the distance between the lines to make an 8 x8 block os symetrical: 16" x 16". However there is an extra bit of fabric at each selvedge, which is about 1/4 ". It's not been a problem as I have lined up with the printed lines and then trimmed the edge.
My dodgy sewing made my earlier blocks a bit uneven, I'm getting better with practice :-)
I've completed my first 2 rows, I can't decide if I will unpick and redo block 3 as it's my most uneven one.
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/53732810/]
Posted 20 months ago.
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