|
Yes, it will work. I tried something similar and was able to control power, but decided to get the Yong Nuo triggers instead of the JrXs so can't try exactly this.
Just connect group to shield and sync and quench to the two rings of a stereo miniplug (try them one way, if it doesn't work, swap them). It's extremely unlikely you could do any damage like this (to either the flash or the JrX) if you're using a Nikon-made flash. Really, you've got nothing to lose.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Yup, it worked. I have power control on my (friend's) SB-28 flash!
Haven't verified that I have full span of power or that the power level is 1 stop per position, but the flash is brighter (and flashes longer) as I rotate the dial. Oh.. you must put the flash in TTL mode.
When you cut the SC-27 cable, the mass of outer wires is the ground, the white wire is the trigger, and the red wire is the squelch. You just wire that to a stereo jack end. When you wire it to the stereo jack end, the tip of the jack is the trigger, the middle is the squelch, and the backend is the ground. Alligator clips can help verify that you have it wired right before soldering.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Eng-Shien edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
I knew it would just be a matter of time before someone did this.
Good job, Eng-Shien!
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
any chance of posting a tutorial?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Making my 2nd cable. I will take pictures this time...
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Before you start, you will need:
1. SC-27 or equivalent Nikon TTL cable
2. 3.5mm Stereo Phone Plug (Philmore 502P is what I used)
3. Wire cutter/stripper
4. Soldering iron + solder (and know how use them. here is a decent video on how to solder: www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-solder-electronic...
Helpful but not necessary:
1. Alligator clips for testing wiring
2. Multimeter for testing continuity
Instruction:
1. Plug in your soldering iron
2. Cut the SC-27 cable about 1 foot from the end (closer if you are more confident of your skillz)
3. Strip off about 1/2 inch of cable sheathing.. this can be tricky as the cable is very cut resistant.
4. Pull the white string to the side and trim off
5. Pull the loose wire strands (I will call this ground wire) away from the red and white wires and twist into a strand.
6. Strip the 1/4 inch of the sheathing of the red and white wires.. I think they are 26 gauge or smaller. Twist each into their own strands.
7. Every so lightly coat the tips of all the 3 strands with solder. Too much and you won't be able to put the strands through the holes in the stereo phone plug.
8. Put the cable through the stereo plug case.
9. Put the white strand into the hole in the left post (assuming Philmore stereo plug)--this is the trigger wire and goes to the tip of the stereo plug.
11. Put the red strand into the hole in the right post--this is the squelch wire and goes into the middle section of tip of the stereo plug.
12. Put the "ground" strand into the bottom post hole.
13. Pull all the strands to the sheath and solder to post.
You should be able to test the cable as is.
14. Plug everything in.
15. Put the flash into TTL mode.
16. Test fire the flash to see if it works. Test fire the receiver. Test fire the transmitter.
17. Test power by rotating the dial nearest the back.
18. If everything checks out, trim the excess wire and close up.
19. Test again to make sure you didn't short anything on close up.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Eng-Shien edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
[Edited to point to Nikon AS-E900]
I leave it as an exercise for someone else to take a Nikon AS-E900
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/179153-REG/Nikon_25068_AS_...
and make a "RPCube" rather than a RP Nikon TTL cable.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Eng-Shien edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
Very cool. I had always assumed the flash would need to be in manual mode but I see now how this is working with the squelch. I use PX receivers so I won't be doing this but it's great to see that this feature of the JrX's can be "unlocked" without having to wait on RP. While I love them, their track record on release dates is less than stellar.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
How about this to make your own rpcube:
cgi.ebay.com/For-NIKON-Off-Camera-Flash-Extension-TTL-Sho...
Simply cut the camera side end off. Expose the wires. Use a meter to trace out the ground, trigger and squelch contacts. Attach a 3.5mm audio plug and you should end up with an RPCube that will work with any ttl capable nikon strobe. Same seller has Canon and Pentax cords also.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
So, a hack is available before JrX can even get their product out? LOL!!!
Kent in SD
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Have you tested the consistency of the flash power from flash to flash (without touching the knob)? I have no real reason to doubt it would be inconsistent, but it's something I would want to confirm before making a purchase. Also, it would be good to know if turning the knob changes power (on speedlights and alienbees) at a linear rate?
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
brettmaxwell edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
@brettmaxwell - alienbees don't have TTL mode, so this cable won't work with them.
You CAN adjust the power on ABs, though, by using the other (phone jack-type) connector which comes included with JRx studio receivers. The RP-cube (or, rather, the hack discovered above) is just for TTL strobes.
The beauty, of course, is that you can then control power on everything: small strobes, and big studio ones, all at the same time, and in different groups.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@giwo - Yup, this should work with any TTL cable or if you want, wire directly into a TTL flash. I will probably try to hack some of my Minolta 4000 AF next week by drilling a hole and directly wiring in a stereo cable... just wanted to keep my Nikon flashes pristine.
@brettmaxwell - No, not yet. I will test some more later. I just tested that I could independently adjust power to two flashes and went to sleep and now off to work. :-)
My guess on how this works is that the knob controls how long before the flash is "squelched" to cut the flash off. From that, I would conjecture that the flash-to-flash power (no knob touching) will be very consistent, depending on the flash and assuming full recharge.
On knob linearity with speedlights, I suspect that flash power will not be precisely linear with the knob positions (I believe flash output is not constant over time but decays) but the knobs are so small anyway that your rotation of them isn't all that precise-that is, I don't think it matters in the real world.
I won't make any guesses on the Alien Bees.. I don't have them and it connects differently via provided 4-wire telephone cable.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Eng-Shien edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
dum question, but how do you plug this into the flash?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
@kenkyee: not a dumb question. The Nikon flashes have two connector ports, a standard PC jack and a three-pronged plug that the above SC-27 cable plugs into.
@Eng-Shien: thanks for this tutorial - it's definitely worth trying. I like this better than any hot-shoe connection idea (guessing that was what the RPcube was gonna be...)
These Jrx triggers are getting better every day!
- Ron
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
For speedlights it is not linear and the manual has a diagram of how the power is spread through the knob turn.
Thanks for this! I have a couple short As-E900. Took the plug off one and it looks to be the same wiring. I'll get a phone plug later and put it together.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
This is awesome. I'm looking at the RP Jrx more seriously now that the RF602's didn't pan out (fastest sync I can get is 1/125 on a Pentax K20D)-:
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Great information and tutorial.
Are you doing this with the JRx Basic, or Studio?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
It has to be the studio version.
Ok, so I got a 1/8th phono plug, put it together with my as-e900 and it works great. Not only that, but now I can daisy chain two of them and have one JrX receiver control two speedlights. Tried it with an SB-28 and an SB-800 together and it worked beautifuly.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Thanks for all the great info. I made two cords from an old SC-27 cable this afternoon. I can now use my Jrx transmitter to control the output on my two of my oldest speedlights, a Sunpak 444D (using an AS10 adaptor) and a Nikon SB16!
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Can you folks who have made these custom cables from SC-27s verify that you are getting the full range of output from the strobe compared to full manual mode? What I mean is: is full power really full power? Is the low end of the power range really 1/128th power?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
I don't have a flash meter, so I did a simple test to verify that I am getting the full range of output using my home made cables. I determined the f stop and iso settings required to generate comparable images at the min. and max. output settings of a JrX transmitter; the transmitter was controlling my SB800 (in TTL mode) connected to a JrX receiver using a home-made cable. My results suggest that the min setting is indeed 1/128 of the maximum. I obtained the same results with an ancient Sunpak 444D. Seems to be working perfectly. I am extremely pleased with the JrX receivers and home-made cables.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
What could I get for this to work with a canon flash?
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Nwbama edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
|
harry: could you elaborate on how you did the "daisy chaining"?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Do the knobs on the transmitter have detents or anything so you can tell what power level your on, or what is roughly a stop up or down?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
elv0000,
No detents.
Enjoy! Lon
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
The AS-E900 has one male ttl plug and two female ttl jacks. So, you can modify the first one with the 3.5mm stereo plug and then connect it to another AS-E900 with an SC-27 cable
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
That's correct, except you don't need an sc-27 at all. The as-e900 has a cord with a special ttl plug as stated. So if you modify one you can plug the next one into that and so on. The built in cords are short, but if you want to put two or three speedlights into an umbrella they are long enough.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
most mind-boggling thing in the manual to me seemed that those knobs should be rotated counter clockwise to turn UP the power.... whywhywhy?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
o7photographs: have you complained to radiopopper about this? That indeed is a bizarre thing to do...
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
jwalter89: That you're getting the full power range is great news. Thanks for doing that test! I've got a Chinese SC-27 knock-off on the way.
I'm wondering if this might enable one to get more range of output power out of older flashes. For instance, an SB-28 goes down to a minimum power of 1/64th and an SB-24 goes down to 1/16 power. Since the flash is being externally quenched, won't these flashes be able to be controlled by a JrX Studio down to 1/128th, just like a newer flash?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
The 1/64th of the SB-28 and 1/16th of the SB-24 are manual settings on the flashes and NOT a limitation of what the flash can do with TTL. So, in theory, you should be able to do 1/128th power with a SB-24 and RP-JrX+dongle combo.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@o7photographs it would seem counter intuitive, but in practice when the transmitter is on the camera's hotshoe you're rotating the knob away from you to raise power and it just feels right imho.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@scubajunkie - I think DH even alluded to this in his blog post.. basically, the JrX adds its own power control to any TTL flash, even if it did not have manual power control before. Thus, there exists some set of non-manual TTL flashes that have not been considered Strobist-friendly that, now with the JrX, can be used Strobist-style.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Eng-Shien edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
LidoFodo: The old Sunpak 444D I used in my tests could be reduced to 1/128 power using the JrX transmitter, even though the minimum manual setting on the flash is 1/16. Some qualitative tests suggest that the same is true of my old Nikon SB16, which doesn't even have manual power control. Looks like I am going to have to order some more JrX receivers to use with the old flashes that had been gathering dust in my closet.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I ordered the AS-900 (from BH Photo) and converted it into a "RP Cable" for my SB-800, and the hotshoe into an "RP Cube" for my SB-600.
Works without problem. But at times the stereo jack that I used doesn't seem to make a solid connection to the JrX receiver. I don't know if it is the receiver or the stereo jack. I found the male to male stereo cable in the parking lot of a thrift store, so I am going to say that is my problem;)
This image is the non-scientific adjusting of output while the sb-600 is sitting in the shoe of the converted AS-900.
more picts here
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Would like to know if some of you guys who has made the connector already has try high-speed sync ( HSS ) on nikon flash.
Since using this connector, know the communication is via TTL. And on Nikon that's the only way to do HHS.
Could be interesting.
Radiopooer says in a email;
" With our JrX system you will not be able to sync higher then 1/250. The PX transmitter will fire the JrX receiver as a manual trigger, this set-up does not allow or HSS either. If you are looking to achieve HSS you will want to invest in our PX system. "
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
It won't work. In TTL mode, the Auto HSS is set on camera and you need a true TTL cable or CLS for the flash to receive this data.
Edit: Or, obviously the PX system.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Steve SJ Collins edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
|
Did you get to read this post ( www.flickr.com/photos/levijwebb/3823085233/ ) About HSS D90 + cybersync by Paul C. Buff .
Could this be truth? because if it is truth I do not see why with the RadioPopper JrX can't be done.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I don't have the JrX but I can't help to think that anybody that is handy with a soldering iron could add a 3.5mm stereo jack on their flash and just use a 3.5mm male to male stereo cord that is available almost anywhere.
I have added a 3.5mm stereo jack to one of my Minolta 4000AF flashes but only use two terminals on it right now (stereo jack was on clearance and mono wasn't) but if I ever end up with some JrXs I think I will have to use the third terminal and give it a try.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Ok, done and done. JrXs and AS-900s on the way.
Looks like the AS-900 route is the way to go since you get 2 for one. A dedicated cord for Nikon flashes and a hotshoe for 3rd party TTLs. Hoping to confirm these results, stay tuned!
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
I did my first "real" shoot with my DIY RP Cube set up, and it worked like a champ. I fired my SB-600, and my SB-800 from the modified AS-900 shoe. No problems to report.
However, I have a Vivitar 550FD that was designed for Nikon cameras. When I place the 550FD on the hot shoe, it fires, but only seems to have "full" and "half" power. It doesn't have the same range as the Nikon strobes, or much of a range at all.
I bought the flash for $4 at Goodwill, so the flash may very well be the problem. Or it may just not support great range. But if anyone has a generic flash to test, with this setup, I would like to know the results.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Anyone enable FP Sync and test what max sync speed they can get? Mine arrive tomorrow, so says UPS.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
"most mind-boggling thing in the manual to me seemed that those knobs should be rotated counter clockwise to turn UP the power.... whywhywhy?"
Look at it this way.
Imagine you're turning on a tap, to fill up your bath. You gradually turn the handle anticlockwise, which gradually opens the size of the hole in the tap; when the handle is fully turned anticlockwise, the water flow rate is at its maximum.
As you turn the handle clockwise, the hole gradually gets smaller; the rate of water flow gradually decreases, until it becomes zero, i.e. the water stops flowing.
Same applies to the knobs on the RP, but with light rather than water. Unless American taps have left hand threads!
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Captain Buckfast edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
|
My guess is either they got a great price break on reverse potentiometers or, the PCB runs were reversed by mistake design.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
So I ordered a couple of the "SC-27" cables from DealExtreme (Hong Kong) and today my mailman delivered the package. I opened it up and discovered that I have received two Wii controllers instead. Looks like the person who packed the box got the stock numbers wrong.
Crap!
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Bah, the same thing happened to me, I ordered one. Standby, it's going to take some time to resolve it (I'm into my 2nd week). What a pain in the ass! I recommend you go this route while you wait, and wait: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/179153-REG/Nikon_25068_AS_...
On the flip side my Poppers arrive tomorrow and I'm not working.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Steve SJ Collins edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
those with working DIY solutions,
does a test button on the JrX Transmitter fire the strobes at the dialed in power for meter reading?
or do you need to sync cable it up to the meter?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@kurt - yes the JrX fires the strobes at the dialed power when not attached to a camera (and using the on transmitter button).
@SJ Collins - No, I don't seem to be able to high speed sync with my D90.
A complaint I have - and maybe someone knows - when not using CLS can I not get the auditory beep that lets me know the flash is recycled?
I get the beep with CLS, and didn't realize how much I depend on it. Also, the DIY cubes will fire the flash, even when not at full power/fully recycled. So I think I am shooting at 1/1, but I only get 1/4 output (or whatever).
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
azreloaded edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
"most mind-boggling thing in the manual to me seemed that those knobs should be rotated counter clockwise to turn UP the power.... whywhywhy?"
Relabel the knob "Darkness" perhaps? When you turn it up, you are turning up the darkness ;-)
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
adfox edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
Can you just buy one at Flash Zebra?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Does this require the 'studio' version receiver to work?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
gyee828 - No and I suspect he won't make one till the RP version is out for a while.
mroadsters - Yes, the Studio version is required.
azreloaded - The ready beep is only available in wireless (CLS) mode.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Steve SJ Collins edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
Ok, I'm just a tad bit confused.
I understand using the JrX studio reciever and the AS-e900 mod, but what transmitter are you using to get the TTL on Nikon? The PX transmitter or the Jrx Transmitter?
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
To get true iTTL control, you need the PX system. The JRx Studio system Rcvr in conjunction with the DIY cable in this thread will give you manual power control thru your JR xmtr.
Originally posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
Steve SJ Collins edited this topic 33 months ago.
|
|
|
Thanks SJ - that saved me a bunch of money and a bunch of time waiting for the PX transmitter to get back in stock. I'm ordering today.
I tend to prefer manual control of my SB600s via the CLS anyway. I know some prefer TTL, I prefer manual - let's call that TME (Through My Eye). This will just extend me far out into the out-of-line-of-site realm.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
If you didn't happen to catch it, Eng-Shien states in his construction/testing notes, your speedlight has to be in TTL mode for this to work.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I emailed Lon @ FlashZebra.com to see if he would be interested in making these and selling them. Hopefully he will announce something for both the Nikon and Canon crowd before RadioPopper announces it themselves.
I also emailed RadioPopper yesterday - their response didn’t hold out much hope: We still do not have an exact date from our research and development. This, amongst other things, is being worked on and will be available as soon as possible. As soon as we have an accurate date the website will be updated. We apologize for any inconvenience.
You can monitor FlashZebra.com's announcements here:
flashzebra.com/rss.xml
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@SJ Collins,
AH, no, I missed that. Thanks. Makes sense though as that way the flash is waiting on the signal to come from the camera as to when to stop or quench the light, which, in this case would come from the JrX transmitter. I think that's how it's understood.
This is awesome. I have a FL36R olympus that I can make a similiar cable for from another TTL cable (for it) and then run an AB800, an SB600, and a FL36R seamlessly and all controlled from the camera. Nice!
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I'm using a Radiopopper JrX basic kit to trigger a Canon 430 EZ via a hot shoe to stereo plug that I got from FlashZebra. If I got the studio receivers would this setup allow me to control output power? The Canon 430 EZ is a TTL flash but it doesn't seem to have any ports into which a TTL cord can be plugged. The whole idea of off camera flash is new to me so I may be making a really obvious mistake here...
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@Ross,
From what I'm gathering here - and other places across the web, if you use the JrX Studio receiver with the specific Canon dedicated hotshoe/cord combo built like in this thread, then you can have MANUAL control of the flash FROM the JrX transmitter at the camera by turning the dials on the transmitter. Now, keep in mind I just ordered mine today so my 2 cents is from what folks seem to be saying.
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
well that was easy.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
thanks for the guide 
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Talking about the reversed group power control knobs...
RP did something even more illogical. For those of you that know digital (theory), the first four dip switches determine the channel, 1-16. If you know digital to decimal, you already know where I'm going, except! Except, Channel 1 is all zeros (0000). So for example, if I pick channel ten, the digital equivalent of the four dip switches totals 9 (1001). Yet one more idiosyncrasy to keep in mind. And to think I just finished having my ISO tattoo removed.
Originally posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
Steve SJ Collins edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
Thank's Sj for the reply
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I thought the orientation of the dials was strange as well. Until I used them. With the transmitter on the camera, the dials are on the left and with my right hand holding the camera and my left hand turning the dials (sorry, lefties) it's very natural to turn the dials away from myself to increase power.
As far as the dip switch position vs. channel number, maybe they should print a legend for geeks. It's all semantics anyway. In fact, the instructions even say to generally ignore the channel number and just match switch positions (like a garage door opener).
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
I posted a hack for the Flash Zebra Deluxe Hot Shoe a couple of hours ago, but further testing has shown that the flash power isn't fully enabled, only about 1 stop of change occurs with the dial at either stop. I will continue testing the contact setup so that I can resolve this issue.
Please don't ask Lon at Flash Zebra for any info on this, as I only sourced the hot shoe from him, and am working on the solution independently from him.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Interesting points SJ and Butterjug. As photographers we're used to this sort of azzbackward thinking though - i.e., aperatures. The smaller the number, the bigger the opening, the larger the number, smaller opening.
Guess it's just how photogs (and photog gizmo creators) see things.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Picked up a Sunpak 422D at the local thrift. The output adjustment was surprisingly good with the JrX units. It has a Nikon shoe/pins.
Recycle times at lower power was good, at full power with NiMHD batteries it was somewhat lacking. Better with alkalines.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Thanks very much to azreloaded for the wiring pic - I got myself some AS-E900's but a couple things I thought about:
1) Don't just lop off the 3 pin plug! It's useful! I disasembled the entire AS-E900 and removed the cable, and took off the strain relief so that I could reuse it. I put a 1/8" stereo mini plug on the cable, and now I have a RadioPopper JrX to SB800 cable! 
The cable can be used to connect a JrX studio reciever to any strobe that has that connector!
2) I added a new cable with an 1/8" stereo mini plug to the AS-E900, and reused the original strain relief, and left the other connectors in place. 
3) Here's the pinout for the cable/connector if you need it. Excuse my lame drawing! It's from the perspective of looking at the business end of the plug.
-
Marc
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Where do you guys get your 3.5mm plugs/cables for this DIY hack?
Get a few E900's coming later this week along w/ my JrX's :-)
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Radio Shack
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@kenkyee, In the past I have cut up cheap head phones. However, along with the radiopoppers comes some male to male stereo jacks. You can cut those up, if you don't want to go to radio shack or cut up old head phones. I used one, and it wasn't a problem.
Be careful though, also in the radiopoppers packaging come some "stupid" mono plugs. They are included to plug into the back of an alienbee to disable the bee's built in optical trigger. You need a jack that has three points of contact, those only have two.
Also, if recycling old electronics, some jacks that support a fourth contact don't work as well. Like if you were cutting up some head phones that also supported a microphone.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Also, earbuds have "tinsel" wire - highly flexible and very very thin... nearly impossible to solder. Don't waste your time on those!
Originally posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
mroadsters edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
Got mine today along with an SC-27 and a couple of AS-E900s. I can confirm everything in this thread. Easy mod, works great.
2 observations which may or may not be directly related to this mod (might just be characteristic of the JrXs in general.)
1. - When "Disable Group at Low Dial Position" is set on the receiver, you lose the lowest power level (1/128 according to the manual.) The receiver will not reactivate until the dial is in the "1/64" position or so. (Even tried turning past 1/64 and gradually lowering it, still cuts off at that position.)
2. - On my D70, with a SB-28DX/SB-26/SB-25 I can sync with full range up to about 1/1000. From 1/1000 up I can sync to 1/1600 with about a 1 1/2 stop loss of power at the higher levels (as expected.)
This is a very, very nice setup and I am quite pleased.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Jaaxx,
Where did you get your SC-27 cable from?
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
It was part of a lot on Ebay.
You can use any of the Multi-flash sync cords to make these for the SB series flashes. You just need a cable with the 3 prong female end to fit the TTL jack.
These would be perfect www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14326
Originally posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
Jaaxx edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
mroadsters, how did you disassembled the AS-E900?
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Warning on ordering from DealExtreme: I ordered two of those "SB-27" cables from DealExtreme. The shipment arrived with the wrong contents (I got two Wii controllers instead- sku numbers were close enough to confuse the dyslexic packager).
Now they don't respond to my complaint or request for proper product. They were quick to charge my credit card, now not so quick to help.
Just sayin...
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@gyee828: There are four small phillips head screws in the bottom. Once you remove them, you'll still need to coax the case halves apart. Work a thumbnail or a guitar pick or something into the seam. You could pry it apart with a screwdriver if you don't mind gouging the case or your hand up!
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
One question that I need to get an explicit answer on:
Will the JrX Studio attached to the via the above mod SB-800 have adjustable power trigger by the appropriate trigger mounted on NON-NIKON Camera?
Thanks
Aulia
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@kera_putih
It shouldn’t matter - the transmitter only uses the center-pin anyways.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@kera putih - If the flash is TTL with a Nikon hot shoe mount, or Nikon TTL (multi-flash) connector, then yes it should work. Edit: typo
@NabityPhotos - They will respond, I had the same problem, I am in the middile of resolving my Wii controller. You can expect WEEKS for this to be resolved.
Originally posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
Steve SJ Collins edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
Todd and Collins,
Thanks, this is great news! At least my other cameras will get a AWL feature!
Now I just have to figure out how to get RP to ship to Indonesia.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I have nikon sb20 and sb25 strobes. any testing results with these would be appreciated. i believe they are both fire>quencj ttl flashes.
thanks
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I have some soldering questions.
There's a 60w soldering iron on amazon for $10:
www.amazon.com/Mastech-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B00...
Is this suitable? It seems there are lower wattage soldering irons, not sure what I should go with?
Plus, any info on what soldering actually does (trying to educate myself)? When you use solder and you fuse the two wires together between the SC-27 and a stereo mini-jack, the solder allows the electric current to pass through and keep the connection going? Also, any info on alligator clips and what they do?
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
ok I'm reading through again.
I guess there aren't two wires you are soldering together, you are soldering the wires of the SC27 onto metal contacts on the exposed end of the mini-jack.
and this is probably a dumb question, but Eng-Shein, you never actually show your finished cable with the stereo plug case re-attached. You don't have to leave everything exposed like in this photo, right?
www.flickr.com/photos/engshien/3905771911/
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@Greg - Yes, solder provides a mechanical connection between two metal surfaces with minimal resistance and long standing durability (not all metals can be soldered). A 60w iron is fine, but if you've never soldered before, I suggest practicing first.
The "trick" to soldering is heating the metal surfaces to be soldered first with the iron. Apply the solder to the connection, near the iron tip and as the solder melts, it will flow towards the heat (also melt some solder on the tip of your iron before attempting, wipe off the excess with a clean dry rag). You also want to prepare the metal surfaces and the tip of the soldering iron with a coating of flux (paste). Flux helps the melted solder flow and as it melts, it cleans the surface to be soldered, available at most electronics parts stores (Radio Shack). A good solder joint (soldered connection) should be shiney when it cools. If the joint looks dull and grey, that's called a "cold solder joint". Re-apply the iron (heat) and make sure the solder melts completely.
The above is about as condensed as I can get on soldering. Lets just say there are highly trained professionals that do this. Like any craft, it requires practice and not everyone can master it.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
My dad knows how to solder so I'll go home for a little father/son bonding and I'll get this done.
You say that soldering is "a mechanical connection between two metal surfaces"... So the little threaded wires inside of a cable are actually metal?
Also, at what point do you use a multimeter to test the connection and what exactly are you looking for? Is that just to determine which bundle of wires are the squelch, ground, and trigger, so really I don't have to do that as it's all laid out here by Eng??
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Besides the wires, there's a string/binder giving the cable better resistance tensile strength against stretching and breaking.
Edit: Yes, the wires are typically made of a copper coated, tin alloy.
Originally posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
Steve SJ Collins edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
@Silver Image - Yep. SB-25 and SB-20 both work perfectly. You will need the E900 hotshoe for the SB-20 because it does not have the multi-flash socket like the SB-25.
The SB-20s just got a lot more useful considering that you can now adjust way below the stock 1/16th power.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I shoot nikon and have a sb800 and SB600 plus the jrx Studios that I've been using with alien bees. My question is can I add an old canon ttl flash into the mix of nikon and alien bees with the proper canon shoe? I didn't see any reference to mixing ab, nikon, and canon but it seems like it should work since it is just quenching the flash. If true, what is the canon equivalent to a nikon as-900? It would be like getting a flash that I haven't used forever back. Thanks
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Yes. The JrX Studio system is just adjusting power levels. There's no TTL going on, it just requires the correct adapter so that the JrX receiver can translate the signal that it receives (fire at 1/4, for example) into the right quench for the flash. That is, you should be able to use a JrX Studio transmitter that fires alien bees with the packaged cords, your Nikon SB600 with a RPCube for Nikon, and your old TTL Canon flash with a RPCube for Canon, all adjusting flash power based on the JrX transmitter's power dials. Resurrecting those old flashes is exactly what DH hinted at in his JrX review.
Clearly, we have a good DIY option instead of using the RPCube for Nikon flashes. SFDI-NM was working on a DIY solution for Canon, but it sounds like his first attempt didn't quite work.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
So I got an AS-E900 , and wired it to a stereo cable (just cut both cables and twisted the wires together to test), but having a bit of a problem.
If I have the flash in manual mode, it fires via the test button on the RP Tx, (so obviously at least the trigger signal is going through) but the knobs don't do anything to adjust the power (to be expected). If I put it in TTL mode (as I understand it it should be in TTL for the quench to work, yes?) it simply doesn't fire. The "ready" light flashes a few times when the test button is pressed, (so it seems like *something* is happening) but no pop.
any of the more electrical savvy in here have any ideas?
(flash is a sb600 BTW)
Originally posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
Ed_Z edited this topic 32 months ago.
|
|
|
Per chance do you have the power level for that group turned down? Till I got comfortable with the knobs, I just left all three in mid position while I did my initial testing.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
RP did something even more illogical. For those of you that know digital (theory), the first four dip switches determine the channel, 1-16. If you know digital to decimal, you already know where I'm going, except! Except, Channel 1 is all zeros (0000). So for example, if I pick channel ten, the digital equivalent of the four dip switches totals 9 (1001). Yet one more idiosyncrasy to keep in mind.
This is standard for all such devices controlled that way. I am not sure what you expect them to do differently:
(1) Label the channels 0 to 15? As a general rule, people start counting from 1, not 0.
(2) Claim that there are only 15 channels? You would start seeing posts about an "undocumented" 16th channel and all sorts of speculation as to what future enhancement it was meant to support.
(3) Add a 5th switch? People would be complaining about how RP was cheating them with just 16 channels as the hardware "obviously" could handle more.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
yeah, the switches are in the middle - interestingly when turned all the way down, the ready light does *not* flash when the test button is pushed - seems to indicate that there is some signal being sent/received as it should be, just odd that it is not triggering.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Nevermind, figured it out. Had the wires backwards. The stereo cable had red, blue and ground (bare) cables, as opposed to the hotshoe's red, white and bare. I just assumed you hooked red->red and white-> blue, but it turns out I needed to connect red->blue and white-> red. weird.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
@SJ Collins - um, check your math! ;-)
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Indeed, I need a clue.
Posted 32 months ago.
(permalink)
|
Strobist.com /
Discuss
Feed – Subscribe to Strobist.com discussion threads