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youve done well, iv managed the same range inprovment but im maxed out at1/250. i did a simillar test that ended up with me standing in the front yard on the house across the road!!
Posted 10 months ago.
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The startec antenna has a threaded end, it also had a rod on the end. I cut it off leaving a threaded bit to attach thru the case with a stakon ring terminal with a wire crimped on. I soldered the wire to the ant hole on the printed circuit board. pretty simple really. I'll take a shot of it this week to show how it looks inside.
also the threaded end of the antenna is metric, bla, but they have the metric nuts at ACO hardware.
Posted 10 months ago.
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Very Nice... that is what I wanted to do to mine as well. Could you post a link to the antenna? I will be buying one!
THANKS!
Posted 10 months ago.
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cell-phones.listings.ebay.com/Motorola_Startac_W0QQsacatZ...
and here:
www.cell-phone-accessory.com/motorola/startac_antenna.htm
or here for $4.99
www.cell-phone-accessories.com/01ormotstara.html
Jeff...definately post a "guts" picture, if you would. That would be great!
Originally posted 10 months ago.
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danielburkhead edited this topic 10 months ago.
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rclhk [deleted] says:
Actually does it really have to stick out? Wouldn't a coil of wire glued to the inside of the case also improve reception without risk of breaking off?
Posted 10 months ago.
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Rather than the transmitter, has anyone looked at the receiver?
Posted 10 months ago.
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ac12basis says:
Rather than the transmitter, has anyone looked at the receiver?
You can definitely get the same (or very similar) results by adding an antenna to the receiver (even better with both?).
Part of the reason on doing the mods on the transmitter is that you only have to do it once, with the receivers, you would need to do it for each flash you want to use.
Posted 10 months ago.
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@ daniel : that is not the correct antenna. the stubby one:
www.phonesunwired.com/Products/Cell%20Phone%20Antenna%20S...
I was getting the 1/500s sync before, but when range extended to 30ft the sync speed would drop off, and then a little further not fire at all. This mod makes it a reasonable transmitter now. If you look at the pic of the antenna I cut about half of the thread off, that left enough for a metric nut (It said something like 4 on the drawer I took the antenna to ACO hardwear and fitted one) and stakon ring terminal with a small wire attached. This I soldered to the antenna terminal in the corner of the pcb same side as antenna.
Posted 10 months ago.
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RCLHK
I've tried that, soldered piece of insulated copper wire to the printed board and then coiled it inside the casing of the transmitter. It works, but the improvement in range is very slight - at best a few mtrs more than without the wire. I've had done a similar mod to Jeff [though his is waay neater than mine] and the effective range improvement is pretty nice!
www.flickr.com/photos/advanidhaka/sets/72157601757302342/
Posted 10 months ago.
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Did you have to shorten the bottom part of the antenna to fit inside the case? Some detailed pics of the modification would be greatly appreciated!
Posted 10 months ago.
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@wanajey:
Yes, using a dremmel cut off wheel I cut about half of the threaded part off leaving just enough to insert thru the case and stakon ring grommet (with wire attached first) and metric nut. I will post pics tonite if I get a chance.
Posted 10 months ago.
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I thought about trying an antenna "balanced" for 433mhz (34cm), but really wanted something as short as possible. And those using wire have noted that the wire length has not really seemed to affect the distance gained. I think the important thing was to just get the antenna away from the ground plane above the unit at these power levels.
Some are happy just using a stub of insulated wire, but that looks, well, kinda cheezy to me. I am sure with a good amplifier, gain could be improved, but then you are testing fcc grounds. I am now happy with 90 feet. It still fits easily in my cam bag also! I have not done anything to the receiver, I can now add as many receivers as I like.
How about 5 receivers and 5 vivitars at 90 feet? what kind of effects can I acheive??? hmmm... gets me thinking, Would be good for group shots?
Time to play!!!!
Posted 10 months ago.
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Thanks, Jeff.
I should have mine here this Friday...the wife's working Saturday....maybe that'll be "Modding Day" with me and the boys?!!? LOL
Posted 10 months ago.
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Here is a pic of the innards:
and here:
Posted 10 months ago.
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Also, don't forget to REMOVE THE BATTERY before doing any modifications!!
Posted 10 months ago.
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Battery? What battery? Hey, what's all this magic smoke?
Posted 10 months ago.
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Oh man....Don't let that smoke out! It won't have ANY range!! ;)
Posted 10 months ago.
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replace the transmitter battery! i found the A23 battery in a 2-pack at Walmart for $1.88- well worth the improvement in functionality!
Posted 10 months ago.
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yes, I replaced batteries in both transmitter and receivers. I saved the old ones for just in case.
Posted 10 months ago.
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Dude, I'm just using the V1, would the point where I solder on the wire be the same?
Posted 10 months ago.
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did you measure all the wire and antenna? I thought the aerial was optimal at certain lengths, eg multiples of the wavelength or something?
Some of the other transmitter mods I've seen go to great effort to ensure the aerial is the exact right length.
Posted 10 months ago.
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As I said: The antenna length does not seem to be critical. If you want to test, then for 433mhz the antenna length is suppost to be full wave at 34 centimeters. I took the advise of those that came before me. The antenna length did not seem an issue with such a low power transmitter. The antenna length sets up your swr, or standing wave ratio. Other factors govern the shape of the output. I was going for 1. looks, and 2. increased functionality and range. I feel that I did this to my satisfaction. Hopefully others will continue to experiment and find a better solution. I did find shorter stub antennas that look promising, and something to experiment with later on. a nice folding antenna that would fold down against the case along the side, and not too long would be great as well.
Posted 10 months ago.
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What is the gauge of wire you used? Is that just a regular ring type terminal?
By the way, it looks great!
Posted 10 months ago.
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@wanajey:
perhaps awg 16 or 18. thinner is better I just used what was in the drawer. Yes, regular ring terminal found at ACO Hardware.
Thanks.
I have looked around and found similar designed ones for cell antennas that are perhaps a bit shorter that I would like to try. Perhaps I could also get longer distance if it tunes better than this one.
Posted 10 months ago.
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Just got another vivtar 285hv for 26 bucks on ebay! after shipping. Now I have three receivers and three 285s!! Wow!
Posted 10 months ago.
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I found this thread and decided to make this today.
The antenna is from an old Netgear wifi router. It can trigger the flash through my apartment's walls that are made of chicken wire, wood slats and plaster. It can trigger it as far as 90 feet-which is awesome cause I cant even get my RF remote on my Dish box to change the channel from the next room most of the time. The walls in these old apartments act like a Faraday cage. With a fairly clear line of site it triggers as far as 75 yards... assuming one step of mine is a yard.
The good thing about this is that the antenna is removable, rotates and swivels out. But yes it is big and probably will attract attention.
A few more pics
www.flickr.com/photos/patricio/1429425994/
www.flickr.com/photos/patricio/1428548965
Thanks for the tip.
Originally posted 10 months ago.
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[patricio] edited this topic 10 months ago.
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Amazing work guys.
I have a few questions:
1.It seems from reading above that having the antenna on the outside makes a huge difference but is it possible to have it on the outside without sticking straight up? My concern would be for putting it in a camera bag or doing any other activities that might cause it to snap.
2.Has anyone looked at an antenna similar or the same as the Elinchrom Skyport?
Moishe
mpex.com/Strobist
Posted 10 months ago.
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For experiments, Deal Extreme has a bunch of antenna options on the cheap (including shipping worldwide). I don't see a stubby one like Jeff used but I haven't looked through them all.
www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.antenna
A couple other threads have mentioned this site as they also have some other strobist items in the camera - photo section.
Posted 10 months ago.
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I did a version of this today to my eBay 'pocket change wizard' transmitter:
www.instructables.com/id/ESSZSXRVP3EYSYUOLA
I used multi-ply insulated copper electrical wire, as it was all I had. Soldered it to the front left hole on the circuit board. It doesn't work if I coil the wire (as in that instructables article) or take the wire too close to the circuit board inside the transmitter housing. So I ran the antenna out of small hole in the front of the transmitter and then bent it upwards. In clear line of sight, now getting a range of 75m or more (I didn't want to go any further away from my camera bag while testing on a clifftop at night...). Indoors, the thing works at least as far as down two flights of stairs in my brick house.
I'm really excited!
Originally posted 10 months ago.
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hereward99 edited this topic 10 months ago.
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Also, when I was testing, it was transmitter mounted on the camera and with an actual flash, not just to get the light to blink as that worked well before the mod and yet the flash either would not fire, or would not sync at the correct max sync speed. The testing does not count if you are only looking for the flash on the receiver and pressing the button.
Posted 10 months ago.
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I have 2 cactus V2, 4 channel triggers, and one had extremely limited distance. I always thought it was because the battery might have been weak or something, so I never used it. After reading this thread, I decided to pop the cover off the weak trigger and try the 6" wire antenna mod. WOW ! I can now trigger reliably from over 200ft . I will admit that I was skeptical, but you made me a believer.
I wound the wire up into a coil and tried several configurations. vertical, horizontal, loop to side, loop to front, and ended up with this as the best configuration for distance and reliability. Weird but true.
Originally posted 10 months ago.
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jwestveer reevtsewj edited this topic 10 months ago.
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love it ! HHHEHEHEH! this is awesome ! looks wild too !
Posted 10 months ago.
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Ok, so my antenna mod is a bit un-sightly. Here is my second attempt, still 6" wire, but smaller so that it will fit entirely inside the case. Works just as well as my ugly pig-tail.
Test shot here: www.flickr.com/photos/jwestveer/1437988547/
Posted 10 months ago.
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Does it matter what gauge and type of wire you use?
Also whats the trick to soldering it without frying the chipset?
Posted 10 months ago.
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"Also whats the trick to soldering it without frying the chipset?"
You need to wear kid gloves. I'm sure you can find a pair on ebay ;)
Posted 10 months ago.
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The soldering skills are perhaps the most difficult part of the mod. You can practice on an old circuit board if you have no experience. not enough heat and the joint is not good, too much and you can damage the circuit board or it's components.
Posted 10 months ago.
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i had mine just sitting there, worked for a while, but when it came time to solder it, with my el cheapo iron, i just let the melted solder "drop" into place
as for the antenna, a whole dollar at a hobby store got me an antenna pipe for an r/c car for the wire to go through, sticks up about 8-9 cm (i cut it down from 30cm) and its really flexible and professional looking (apart from the flouro green colour and melted transmitter case (failed antenna design #1)
Posted 10 months ago.
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Well I will be doing this tonight.... wish me luck ha
Posted 10 months ago.
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The best tip for decent soldering is a decent soldering iron. The $8 at Radio Shack variety don't quality. Try a good Weller or comparable. The closer to $100 the better. They're fantastic. They heat up really quickly, you can dial in an exact temp, and the tips are much higher quality.
I've ruined enough projects with the Radio Shack Piece O' Crap that I had more than paid for a good one.
I'm definitely going to work on some mods for my transmitter now that wedding season has died down.
Posted 10 months ago.
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If that's the case, with spending $100+ on a soldering iron, why don't you plunk it down on a PWs Plus II?
Posted 10 months ago.
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good point thatcoder.
you don't have to spend that much on an iron, but make sure that it's suitable for board work ie. about a .8 tip, 20W power etc.
I own one of these
www.amazon.com/Xytronic-253-Pencil-Soldering-Iron/dp/B000...
Granted, variable power is a good option.
Ideally, get one of these
Posted 10 months ago.
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I want to see what a $100 iron looks like. Most Wellers close to that price are guns that are well over 150 watts and will burn the circuit board. A 20W iron from radio shack is good enough. I should know I've been soldering since I was 10 and have the burn marks to prove it.
Tips:
1. dont rush
2. make sure tip is clean
3. use flux if possible or rosin core suitable for electronics
4. tin the tip of the wire first not the board
5. apply heat to wire instead of board-heat will transfer to the board
7. quickly remove the iron when you see the two join
6. dont use the cold heat crap
Originally posted 10 months ago.
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[patricio] edited this topic 10 months ago.
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I put an antenna on my transmitter and got over 100ft. of range out of it. I used 18 gauge wire, poked it through the top, and twirled it to look a little better. I am happy with the improvement.
Posted 10 months ago.
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What -patricio- said: And also once you remove the iron, hold very still while it cools, it is usually the movement at this time that creates the "cold" solder, or frosted joint that is poor. If when it cools it is nice and shiny, not frosted looking it will be a better connection.
Posted 10 months ago.
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ac12basis said "Rather than the transmitter, has anyone looked at the receiver? "
The major argument against this is that it would make it MORE likely to pick up unwanted signals (e.g. garage door controls) causing spurious firing.
Posted 9 months ago.
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DaPi ♫
You are probably right.
I've noticed the transmitter and receiver will fire the flash in repeating stroboscopic bursts if my cellular phone rings while is near any of the two. This would happen even before I added an antenna to the transmitter.
Posted 9 months ago.
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I have a question about this mod...
Clearly the range is enhanced greatly with the addition of an antennae, but what about the reliability? My poverty wizards seem to be very picky about the arrangement of the pieces involved, and unless I have the receiver far enough away from the flash, and close enough (but not TOO close) to the transmitter, I'll get a flash maybe half or two thirds of the attempts. If this mod resolves those issues, I'm in. Thanks for sharing, either way.
Posted 9 months ago.
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Wow thanks for the great tip Jeffegg2. I was thinking about the mod but have gotten pretty good results with what I have. I did change out the pc sync with a mono plug. Way more reliable with my sb25.
Now that I look at your results I am rethinking the antanna.
Posted 9 months ago.
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Here's my tutorial, for what it's worth:
jeremykuster.blogspot.com/2007/10/gi-cactus-v2s-modificat...
Posted 9 months ago.
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@A@Dhaka: "I've noticed the transmitter and receiver will fire the flash in repeating stroboscopic bursts if my cellular phone rings while is near any of the two. This would happen even before I added an antenna to the transmitter."
Given that your phone operates at microwave frequencies and that these units operate at 433MHz (from memory), that's not the aerial that's causing problems, but the circuit board. It's the same effect that you get when your phone interferes with your hi-fi.
From the variable results with these things I suspect that the components used are not high-tolerance, so some units will simply be better tuned than others.
Posted 9 months ago.
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@[patricio]: Here's what a $100 Weller looks like:
Weller WES51
And here's what a $300 Weller looks like:
Weller WD1001
Posted 9 months ago.
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I think the soldering suggestions should be more about technique than who can buy an expensive iron. Use a well-tinned tip, a fully heated iron in the 20w range, 'helping hands' to keep the work perfectly steady, and the proper solder for the job. I like 2%silver(62/36/2 to be exact) in 0.015" diameter for this type of work. It's stronger than non-silver solders and easier to work with than 4% or something larger in diameter (both increase the risk of overheating your work for different reasons).
Heat the wire near the union, not the board or the solder itself. Touch the solder against the wire at the circuit board union and wait for it to start to melt. Feed the solder into the heated wire until a drop forms around the point the wire goes into the board - just large enough to span the hole. (this should be quick, a half second or so after the solder starts to melt) and remove both the heat and the solder simultaneously. Let it set for 30 seconds, and you're done! Test the solder visually (shiny and filling the tiny hole) and with a quick wiggle on the wire.
And, I used a FRS radio antenna for mine, cut down slightly to optimize for the 433 (vs. 462) Mhz frequency. I'm very happy with my results:
I haven't tested the limits, but they worked every time I tried @ 100ft through a brick wall and a wire fence. Good enough for me.
Posted 9 months ago.
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My Mod Cactus.
More Info
Originally posted 5 months ago.
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Dhanny edited this topic 5 months ago.
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Damm those look hot.. I wondering if my Linksys WiFi bunny ears anterna will fit or not?
Posted 5 months ago.
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If you want to save a bit of money, you can use the aerial off an old mobile phone (the type that had an aerial sticking out from the top). Some aerials unscrew and for those that don't you will need to take the phone apart.
Posted 5 months ago.
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Surely mobile antennas are tuned for 800/850MHz (US) or 900MHz (Europe)? Maybe you can get enough out of them, even at 433MHz.
Posted 5 months ago.
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I second purchasing backup batteries at Wal-Mart.
Duracell or Energizer, the A23s are $1.88 for a two pack!
Posted 5 months ago.
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Speaking of mods, I replaced the battery in the cactus receivers with a fatter, Duracell CR2, and now the back cover won't close. Seems the original battery is thinner.
Anyone got a fix for this ?? Tx
Posted 5 months ago.
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can you unscrew the antennae?
Posted 5 months ago.
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@Nicky My cover also.. electrical tape is my strobist fix, gaffers should work a well
Posted 5 months ago.
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I received my V2s and it triggers fine well over 100ft direct line?
Posted 5 months ago.
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" ...Speaking of mods, I replaced the battery in the cactus receivers with a fatter, Duracell CR2, and now the back cover won't close. Seems the original battery is thinner...."
I always wanted to know about this.. I'm worrying about the battery too. I think I put in 300 plus shots already. I know soon or later Im going replace those batteries...
So, any1 what battery can fit perfectly???
rgds,
ken
Originally posted 5 months ago.
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Klnyc edited this topic 5 months ago.
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I just ordered the one from the blog. It is tuned to the correct frequency it is not big and it is removable. I bought it for less than 20 bucks and got it the next day. You can avoid Canadian tax questions by ordering from the canadian site (for you canadians out there).
Also for those who wonder why you don't patch the recievers too. If you do that you increase the recievers suseptibility to noise. it is better to make the transmitter "shout louder" than to make the reciever "listen more intently". If the reciever listens better it may pickup signals and trigger in error.
Posted 5 months ago.
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So I've moded out my 2 ebay triggers and ready to pack it up and take it on the road.
What is everyone storing the triggers in for travel from house.....?
I've found an older leather camera case smaller which I can just fit the 430EX and Nikon SB24 into along with the two receivers and the transmitter.....but it doesn't seem ideal.
Seems like a small case with the pinch out foam would be the best. and could open the case and everything would be there on one level.
How are you storing yours?
Posted 5 months ago.
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For anyone looking to purchase the stubby motorola antenna, I'd reccomend against ordering from Wireless Emporium. They've managed to send me the wrong part twice.
Posted 5 months ago.
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Very cool idea, looks nice hidden into transmiter. I did not made a mod to my ebay triggers, but wonder if any of You tried to add extra antenna into reciever. It should double the power of 'standard' mod :)
Cheers,
Rob
Posted 5 months ago.
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Here is my own mod 1/2 wavelength coiled copperwire based on this discussion and a lot more:
strobemonkey.blogspot.com/2008/04/cactus-v2s-trigger-mod....
Posted 3 months ago.
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I got this old one gadget infinity transmiter, i would love to hack it with a new brand antenna, but all the models in the tutorials are so new, so any instruction would be well accepted.
THANKS
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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08STUDIO edited this topic 2 months ago.
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I don't understand how an older model would be any different?
Posted 2 months ago.
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hey jeffeg2..
i got a few questions.. was the 1/500 sync due to the mod? i use a canon 10d and it syncs up at about 1/200 s. is it the camera? or is it just me who can't understand the sync-and-sync of lighting? (*scratching head)
replies, much appreciated.
Posted 2 months ago.
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buccino Max sync speed is up to the camera. My D200 only goes up to 1/250th. Some do far better. The problem was with the receiver/trigger that it wasn't reliable to do a fast sync speed (it wouldn't react to such a short signal burst). A stronger signal means it works.
Posted 2 months ago.
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"Surely mobile antennas are tuned for 800/850MHz (US) or 900MHz (Europe)? Maybe you can get enough out of them, even at 433MHz."
one key thing to keep in mind here - While most antenna systems are matched to a specific impedance (usually 50 ohms for communications equipment, 75 for TV), the Gadget Infinity internals are likely not matched to any "normal" impedance.
As a result probably anything that is of increased size away from the ground plane will be an improvement, as someone else said, even if it's not a perfect match at any sane impedance.
Posted 2 months ago.
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Posted 2 months ago.
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Is this really worth all this trouble? I've been thinking of getting these triggers but I am stalling. I live outside the US (in the Caribbean) and I am concerned about ordering this and when it gets here I have problems with it. Also I am wondering if all this 'moding' is advantageous over putting out the money and getting pocket wizards or skyports.
I can handle the soldering and stuff as I work at a Science Laboratory at a Community College. But PW IIs and skyports just seem to make a lot of sense for the reliability and flexibility that they seem to offer (I have never used any of these but I've seen PWs in action).
Posted 2 months ago.
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FINALLY I've hacked this "grand pa" yes, the firing faults disappeared, radio range grow up over 200% and now i can shoot between rooms!!!
Posted 2 months ago.
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here's mine:
1/2 wavelength coiled cat5e network cable.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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strobemonkey edited this topic 2 months ago.
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Entropy512:
"Surely mobile antennas are tuned for 800/850MHz (US) or 900MHz (Europe)? Maybe you can get enough out of them, even at 433MHz."
one key thing to keep in mind here - While most antenna systems are matched to a specific impedance (usually 50 ohms for communications equipment, 75 for TV), the Gadget Infinity internals are likely not matched to any "normal" impedance.
As a result probably anything that is of increased size away from the ground plane will be an improvement, as someone else said, even if it's not a perfect match at any sane impedance.
I agree with you. While the mods that people are doing to these units are working (in various degrees) this is mainly because almost any addition is an improvement.
While some people are using antennas that are tuned to 433Mhz I wonder if they are getting any better results compared to some people using the "wrong" (other frequency) antennas.
While the antenna itself has a resonant frequency of 433Mhz I wonder if the circuit is then mis-tuned by this addition. The little foil strip on the board has a certain impedance at that frequency. In order to make it useful (just barely mind you) the capacitor in series with the foil has an effect on shifting the impedance so the output amplifier sees some kind of normal load. Once you replace (or add to) the existing strip with a tuned antenna (for that frequency) the loading of the amplifier is thrown off. This would explain why some people who added a mathematically correct length 1/4 wave antenna had poor results.
A 2.4Ghz antenna would be too short for the 433Mhz operating frequency. But with the impedance compensation on the transmitter (to work with the short foil strip) the 2.4Ghz antennas may not be that bad in drawing power out of the amplifier. This loading may make up for the lack of radiating power because of the antenna being to short.
Some day I'll have to do a proper analysis of these units. For now my mod works great for me so I'm happy.
Originally posted 6 weeks ago.
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rudy_216 edited this topic 6 weeks ago.
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buccino :
i got a few questions.. was the 1/500 sync due to the mod? i use a canon 10d and it syncs up at about 1/200 s. is it the camera? or is it just me who can't understand the sync-and-sync of lighting? (*scratching head)
The transmitter sends out a stream that identifies it (including the dip switch settings) and if the receiver gets a strong signal and there is a match the output will pulse to trigger a flash. If the RF link is strong the pulse seen at the output of the receiver happens after about 660 micro-seconds. This should be good enough 1/500s or better. What you also have to include is the reaction time of the flash and the timing of the curtain/shutter in relation to the camera's trigger signal.
The RF triggers should be able to work up to the maximum sync time listed for your camera (based on a mechanical shutter).
Now if the RF link is a poor one and the receiver is barely hearing the transmitter it takes a number of the repeated identifier stream sequences from the transmitter before the receiver will trigger it's output (if at all). This is why you hear some people stating that the usable shutter time is lower. So if you can only get a maximum shutter time of 1/60 (for example) it is because of the poor signal link from the transmitter to the radio. And it will be inconsistent.
Posted 6 weeks ago.
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