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For the newbie lurkers - canon wireless primer. [old thread, excellent info + new question]

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

Ok so my thinking here is primarily that I wanted to "give back" a little to this site. Thanks to David we're all on this journey together now so I wanted to pass on what I can at my stage to those maybe still a little confused - in this case with the Canon ST-E2 and off camera flashes.

This post also mates a little with that from MillsArt;

"Why's everyone so against wireless ETTL or Nikon CLS ??"
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594393402159/

and also touches on chemistis;

"For the Silent, Excited, Intimidated, but Want-to-learn Strobist Fans... "
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594394231217/

I wanted to show what the very very basic possibilities are with two off camera flashes, and a wireless transmitter - NOT a pocket wizard.

The set up is Canon 30D with ST-E2, 580EX, 430EX. One work light under the table to light the background and one oversized tennis ball sitting on a glass on the table.

STE2_Ball (2) STE2_Ball(1)

Camera is on aperture priority, ISO 100, f/5.6 or there abouts.
If I take a shot now with *no flash* turned on I will get a "correct exposure". As this is a backlit scene the camera has typically underexposed the ball. But it does show you what the "ambient exposure" is.

STE2_Ball (3)

Now we can turn both flashes on and have them fire equal amounts which is still all decided by the ETTL system. The flashes are set to "Slave" and both are "Group A". They are equi-distant from the ball and slightly infront so both sides should be lit equally.

STE2_Ball (4)

Now I can set the rh flash to be "Group B" and change the ratio of light to each side of the ball. This is simply pressing the "ratio" button on the ST-E2 and moving the lit marker all the way to the left (8:1) Group A...
STE2_Ball (5)

...or all the way to the right (1:8) Group B...
STE2_Ball (6)

Notice that in all 4 shots above the ambient lit background has remained (to all intents) constant, we've only changed the ratio of light onto the ball.

So how to change the ambient you ask? Well, just use the Exposure Compensation (EC) function on your camera. The flashes are back to firing equally on both sides again for the purpose of the following demonstration. Exposure Compensation at -2...
STE2_Ball (7)

...and to increase the exposure of the background you can turn the Exposure Compenstion up to +2...
STE2_Ball (8)

It's not such a great example as some ambient is lighting the ball but the point to note is that we are only adjusting the background lighting exposure - not the balls.

That's not all though, you can also adjust the output of the flashes (note plural) by using the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) function, again on camera. For this demonstration Exposure Compensation is back to 0 and we still have equal light form both flashes.

Flash exposure compensation at -2...
STE2_Ball (9)

...and Flash Exposure Compensation at +2...
STE2_Ball (10)

Again apart from the colour balance shift you should notice that the background this time is remaining constant and the ball is changing in exposure independently (well almost!).

So your now of course asking....what about a moody ambient at darkest and ball at lightest? No problemo, Exposure Compensation set to -2, Flash Exposure Compensation set to +2, et voila....

STE2_Ball (11)

NICE! And how about the other way around? ambient high and flash low? EC +2, FEC -2.....

STE2_Ball (12)

....ta-daaa...errrr....oh - looks terrible. Oh well, how about a cool moody background with just enough of the work lamp to provide a changing yellow to blue back drop, but then a zinging dynamic side lit ball with a little fill in from the opposite side to seperate it from the background...

STE2_Ball (13)

There we go!

So there you have it, all done from directly behind the camera, I didn't move my feet once for all shots. It's not going to allow you the range and creativity that Davids promting and a set of PWs is going to get you, but for a starter like me it's still something to get your mouth watering!

If you want to copy my set up exaclty then go for it, it's a great learning experience, but don't let it force you into uncreative thinking, ask yourself lots of "what ifs" and simply have fun! With the last image what about an umbrella RH light for softer wrap around and a snooted LH light just kissing the back of the ball for a contrasty "kicker"? Try it!

So go forth and light - then come back to flickr strobists and show us not just what you did - but more importantly How You Did It!!

Kind Regards
D W Bell
Originally posted at 2:53PM, 27 November 2006 PDT (permalink)
Nionyn_ edited this topic 19 months ago.

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andrewstrauss is a group moderator andrewstrauss  Pro User  says:

Great post!

--Andy
www.andrewstrauss.net
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Gary Lowell says:

What a great post. Thanks.
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Samuel Webster  Pro User  says:

While i probably won't at any point use the ST-E2, this is a very good explanation of the tradeoffs between ambient exposure (in camera) setting, and flash exposure compensation (on hotshoe flash) that I haven't been able to get clear as yet.
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Steve.Korn  Pro User  says:

Nice job, thanks for "en-lightening" us.

Sorry.
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Gary Lowell says:

The real beauty is that you didn't ever leave the camara to get all these different results. It's sort of like using a remote in your studio for all the different strobes.
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Brett Admire Photography says:

Wonderful post.. as I have the same setup and I find myself changing the the flash out power too much rather than doing in camera.. this is great. thanks!
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

I should also point out here, and this is a little more "advanced" that if you use a 580EX instead of an ST-E2 as the master, you can use all flashes in the slave groups on M (Manual) but *still* control the output from the camera, albeit in this case by adjusting the controls on the back of the 580EX. So this is actually exactly like the Manual method David uses but "remote" (ie not having to move to the lights to change output). It doesn't then use ETTL or any other whizz-bang technology but few people realise this advantage of the 580 as master over the ST-E2 as master (which doesn't support this possibility).

Thanks for the comments all, glad you found it useful.

Kind Regards
DWBell
Originally posted 67 months ago. (permalink)
dwbell edited this topic 67 months ago.

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Le Singe says:

Great post man, definately got me psyched to go and get some kind of remote system. (and more flashes).

Damn these expensive hobbies ;-)
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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chemisti  Pro User  says:

Wow - and thanks - a great tutorial. Besides learning about the wonderful Canon Ettl wireless system (sorry, I'm from the dark - Nikon side), it is also a good lesson concerning flash compensation vs exposure compensation...

Loved it!
Originally posted 67 months ago. (permalink)
chemisti edited this topic 67 months ago.

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digitaljoe2 says:

Great post!@ I have just bought the STt-E2 and am finding it most useful - particularly for quick shots where the client is in a hurry.
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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MillsArt Photography says:

Wow, I honestly did not know the 580ex would let you dial the slave outputs up and down wirelessly. I thought it only would do it in ETTL mode. Very cool!

Crazy how little documentation Canon has for their stuff though isnt it ?

For instance it seems about 90% of people dont know you can put a 430ex/550ex or 580ex into M mode when its set to slave.

Canon doenst document it well if at all, and you press the mode button and nothing happens so you figure it doesnt work

Who would of guessed you'd need to press and HOLD the button for 1 or 2 seconds and then it does it ?
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Brett Admire Photography says:

Ya I had to search deep for that.. to get my slaves (580/430) to go M mode

Last night I tried this... and for some reason I could not get the ratio (1:8) or (8:1) to get similar results. Any suggestions? I can get similiar results by setting the flash power manually... but I was just intrigued in doing it on the st-e2 and wanted to see how it worked..any suggestions?
Originally posted 67 months ago. (permalink)
Brett Admire Photography edited this topic 67 months ago.

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daddiophoto says:

Great info here.

I've just gotten a 580EX and have been trying to learn how to use it as a master with my existing 420EX. As others have said, the 580EX manual can be more confusing than helpful.

I'm just amazed there's not a comprehensive tutorial available from Canon to show ALL of the functionality and possible usage of their system. How do they expect their customers to learn this stuff?
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Ian Holmes Photography says:

Superb post dwbell - exactly the type of simple, easy to understand stuff I've been after. VERY helpful!

Thanks.
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

@ MillsArt - yup, cool huh, sometimes, only *somtimes* it pays to rtfm! =)

@Brett Admire - difficult to say what's happening with your set up. Make sure you a) have one flash set to Group A and one set to Group B on the actual flash unit itself. b) make sure the "Ratio" button on the ST-E2 is pressed and lit. c) make sure the on off switch on the ST-E2 isn't slid all the way to the right into "hold" position, this prevents accidental input. Like on a CD or MP3 player. Let me know if you get it going.....

Cheers
DWBell
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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It was the light, it was the angle  Pro User  says:

very helpful. thank you
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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Brett Admire Photography says:

DWBell

thanks.. I didnt have one set to group a and one to B i'll try that!
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

You can find the follow up to this post (and the final picture) at the following link;

www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594397991854/

@ Brett - No worries, glad to be a help.

Cheers
DWBell
Posted 67 months ago. (permalink)

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NicW says:

DWBell, your tutorials are awesome. Informative and easy to follow. Even for someone who doesn't even own that equipment. (Yet!!!)

Question for you though.... You mentioned maybe using an umbrella on the right hand flash to give it a nice wraparound light. How would you use the flash? Would you still be able to use the ETTL or would you have to switch to manual?

Thanks for taking the time to put these together!!!
Nicole
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

NicW.

Thanks Nic, glad you find them useful.

You can easily use ETTL with an umbrella or two, I do it all the time. See the 4 flash headshot post.
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594560755186/
The key light in that is with a silver umbrella.

You don't need to do anything clever or different, just mount it as normal and fire away. If you really put the umbrella at a distance - say your shooting at 150-200mm on a 1.6 body, then you may have to turn the body of the flash to point the reciever directly at your master on camera. But for portaits and "normal" use it's no porblem.

Do me a favour though before you spend any hard earned. Work out your needs, your budget and try both manual-radio and ETTL-IR systems and make an informed decision. Don't rely on me or anyone else, it's your money - and for all you know I could be a canon rep! ;-)

Kind Regards
DWBell
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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NicW says:

DWBell,

Don't worry... I'm doing a TON of reading and research before I drop over $300 on a single piece of equipment. Hence the reason for a 3 month old post to be bumped back up! :-)

I love finding how different things work for different people. And even with your disclaimer, I still want a 580!!! I'll just have to make due with my ancient promaster and the eBay slaves (which are on their way to me now!) :-)

Thanks again!
Nicole
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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t.mike.mc says:

Great post. I hope someone at Canon reads this so they can punch up their owners manual a little bit. Or maybe they should just talk to their engineers so they really know what all they do.
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

Good on you Nicole.

Mike - yep, it's really a weak point in their gear. I wish they would od better in that regard too.

Kind Regards
DWBell
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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carlos.benjamin is a group moderator carlos.benjamin says:

Now, if only they could marry up that functionality through an RF signal w/PW style range and dependability rather than limited IR I'd seriously consider laying down some bucks for a complete three or four light system. And I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be the only one jumping on that bandwagon.
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

Hehe - carlos you read my mind a pre-empted my next post.

RF ETTL is coming, I've got money on it. ;-) So better get learning the system now - or your competition will get the jump on you!

Kind Regards
DWBell
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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Tracey Eide says:

Excellent post!!
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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Semi_Transparent says:

Great post! I'm drinking "Canon Juice" now...It is great to see some very easy to follow directions and guidelines to do effective lighting on subjects with off camera flash. Nice job on including techniques and camera settings.

Now, if they would only drop the prices a little.

Good Job.

JJ
Posted 64 months ago. (permalink)

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spelunkerd says:

Yeah, a good tutorial. But I find that setting the camera on straight manual exposure (rather than aperture or shutter priority), and manual flash, to be conceptually a little easier. That way, I don't wonder about how the camera is calculating ambient exposure, since I'm doing it manually. Sometimes I find that my ETTL meter is making assumptions about what I want, that may not be accurate (both with respect to flash EC and overall ambient EC). For example, when I'm trying to properly expose a portrait with bright background, the camera damps the flash too much and my faces are underexposed. With all manual, I force the camera to do what I ask (even when I'm wrong).

Dave
Posted 55 months ago. (permalink)

Jim Wrigley Photography Inc. [deleted] says:

love the tutorial!
Posted 52 months ago. (permalink)

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fetching  Pro User  says:

i'm against the ST-E2 because you need pretty much a direct line of sight with the flashes for them to fire. which completely limits your lighting options.
Posted 52 months ago. (permalink)

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digitaljoe2 says:

Not indoors. Mine bounces around the walls. I have been impressed with the range.
Posted 52 months ago. (permalink)

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spelunkerd says:

Mine bounces fine as well, even outdoors, as long as it isn't in bright sunlight. I find that the signal bounces off the subject easily, so line of sight isn't necessarily critical.

Dave
Posted 52 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

@litedude - glad to hear it!

@fetching - I wouldn't say I'm "against" any form of light triggering, vut whatever. Do you have the ST-E2? I would recommend you change the supplied batteries for a new one and test out the line of sight weakness. I did, see the tute listed below..

ETTL "Line of Sight" weakness;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594562437468/

@digitaljoe2 & spelunkerd - yep, I'm all for testing it yourself, learning how it works and using ot to your advantage.

_________________________________________________________
Canon ETTL Wireless Flash tutorials to date;

The original Tennis Ball Newbie Primer;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594395062312/
with follow up final image;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594397991854/
Exposing right with FEC on all groups for a higher quality final image;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594470263338/
A combination of techniques with +FEC, overlay and noise reduction for even cleaner images;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594502407628/
The Four Flash Headshot with ratio and visual impact change on the fly;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594560755186/
ETTL "Line of Sight" weakness;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594562437468/
Colouring ambient lit background with gelled main light and custom white balance;
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157600225128852/
"Turn One light into Four" portrait shot.
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157602913731540/
_________________________________________________________

Kind regards
DWBell
Originally posted 52 months ago. (permalink)
dwbell edited this topic 52 months ago.

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Bigbirddy aka Jaycar Photography says:

Hey everybody!

DWBell...Thanx for your WUNDRFL tutorials! I'm a rank (but serious) newbie and I'm bringing myself up to speed on strobist programs as well as your posts here. I use an ST-E2, one 580EX and two 420's. Seldom have any triggering problems but would like more range. As I understand it, Canon chose to go IR due to the mind numbing regulations and certtifications necessary for using RF in the US. Glad to hear RF may yet be in our future.

Thanx again and keep up the good work!

Bigbirddy
Posted 52 months ago. (permalink)

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The Lawgiver  Pro User  says:

I may be missing something but to me the ball doesn't look properly exposed in most of those shots.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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`Mark&Manna Photography is a group moderator `Mark&Manna Photography  Pro User  says:

@ BowenPhoto.....maybe you can fix it in Photoshop? :-)
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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johnoconnell  Pro User  says:

Really nice run through! Just on the off chance you'd know - if you stick with eTTL can you still use high speed sync? I bought a 400d way before reading any of this stuff and I like the idea of being able to drop the sky during daylight which means either a new body or canon flashes - I like the look of rim lit, triangular lighting so I'll need three flashes - will eTTL allow me to use high speed sync or is it only possible using the canon off camera cord?

Cheers!

John
Posted 45 months ago. (permalink)

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Anton G says:

Just wanted to say great post and many thanks. Will read this properly when I am not at work and it's always very very helpful with things like this.
Posted 45 months ago. (permalink)

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dwbell  Pro User  says:

@john - HS sync will work wireless if you're using a 580 or ST-E2 as a master no problem.

@anton - glad you found it useful.

Kind regards
DWBell
Posted 45 months ago. (permalink)

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Jo Bradford  Pro User  says:

I have a 550ex and a 430ex but no wireless trigger yet - just using the slave / master functions for now...... As a newbie experimenter, I am still finding it a lot to take in.... can you please use your wonderful grasp of plain english and your concise explanations to tell me what exactly the high speed setting does for portraits?
Posted 19 months ago. (permalink)

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LayerMask  Pro User  says:

In case DWB doesn't see this ...
Try reading this ...
neilvn.com/tangents/2008/12/13/max-it-out/
I think it's one of the best summaries of the role of HSS/FP and especially its limitations. He also explains why, if you are saddled with a Focal plane shutter, sticking at Max Sync can be the best compromise. (Note there are some HSS peculiarities unique to the 5D & 5D(II) in Canon's line.)
Posted 19 months ago. (permalink)

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Jo Bradford  Pro User  says:

Thanks, this is very helpful!
Posted 19 months ago. (permalink)

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