eyetwist PRO 5:21am, 28 May 2009
i've been a dedicated HC-110 user for many years, and have always been pleased with the resolving power and snappy negs it produces.

decided to give rodinal stand development a try, to see what the acclaimed "edge-effect" looked like. processed in rodinal 1:100 @ 20C, agitated for the first 2min, stand for 60min. unfortunately, i ended up with the "streaking" i've read about - insufficient agitation it seems. next test will be "semi-stand", still at 1:100 for 60min but will have occasional agitation for the first 10min and a gentle shake at 30min.

i welcome any other suggestions. cheers.


rodinal stand test. venice, ca. 2009.
Agfapan-25 PRO 9 years ago
How much Rodinal did you use?
You need at least 4ml of Rodinal concentrate for 1 roll of 135/36

I usually use a 500ml tank and measure out 5ml or Rodinal and add 500ml of water to play safe when I use the 1-100 dilution.

Personally I would stick to the HC110 for the EFKE/ADOX 100 and 50 films as I find like you, I to have always been pleased with the resolving power and snappy negs it produces.
eyetwist PRO 9 years ago
this was shot on 120 - i used 3 1/2cc of rodinal in a 500ml tank. i'll try 5cc the next time around.
harmonious sink [deleted] 9 years ago
Just to make sure, was the water used to mix with the Rodinal at the same temperature as the room in which you develop your film? This is very critical and will cause uneven development and other fun tricks. I always keep a couple gallon jugs of water on top of the fridge in the kitchen, and make sure that the water I use has been hanging out for at least 24 hours to ensure that it has come to the same temperature as the surrounding room.
eyetwist PRO 9 years ago
Ursula Pfitzer so if the dev started at 68F (20C) and the ambient temp in the room was at 70F, that could have caused problems?
kitsaplorax 9 years ago
That isn't enough Rodinal. 5 ml is a minimum. i have gotten better results with Efke by pre-soaking it for a minute or two before adding developer.

Sometimes I do go down to 4 ml, and I add 3 ml of Hubl Paste, a glycin developer that tames streaking.
harmonious sink [deleted] Posted 9 years ago. Edited by harmonious sink (member) 9 years ago
It's happened with me a few times before I finally asked what was going on with my negatives and learned how critical water temperature is. Someone can probably better explain the science of how that is. What I do know, though, is since I started using water from jugs that had stood around for at least a day or two, I stopped getting uneven development and other weird streaking going on.
Stand development has developed a lot of folklore, it seems. As soon as someone claims that 5ml is the absolute minimum expect someone else to show results they got with 4 or less . . .

the temperature issue is something that has come up before. I think a simple inversion is all that's needed. What seems to happen is the solution settles a bit over time as the reaction progresses and you may find the top portion of a given piece of film underdeveloped: the good stuff settles to the bottom of the tank and the stuff at the top is exhausted. Inverting the tank jostles the soup enough to redistribute the developer w/o increasing grain.

Your mileage will certainly vary. I never worry about water temperature as long as it's between 65 and 70 (the low end being the norm for me, year round).
New Dad 9 years ago
I'm confused. I have a roll of Efke 100 127 waiting to be developed.
I have always set my water temperature to 20 degrees.
If I set a jug of water aside in my house it will rest below 20 degrees.
If I was to do the same at my brothers house in Bangkok it would be 30 plus!
My question is, what is more important? Getting the water to 20 degrees or getting it to room temperature?
harmonious sink [deleted] 9 years ago
Well, to be honest, I am a bit confused too. This isn't the first discussion on this topic, and it always seems to lead to different techniques and opinions. Like the guy above me claims, a halfway agitation will help tame any unevenness or streaking. But then isn't that technically more of a semi-stand development then?

Others who swear that the chemicals in the tank must be at room temp, solve the problem of varying temperatures from changing seasons, by keeping the tank submerged in a water bath around 68 or 70 - whatever temperature the Rodinal is, as long as the bath does not sway in temperature. I've also read about people adjusting the time accordingly to the different temperatures. For example, stand developing for only 45 minutes instead of a full hour if the ambient room temperature is several degrees above 70F. I did this the other day with a roll of FP4+. It was 75F in my kitchen, so I did a full stand for 45 minutes. The roll looked fine.

At this point I am inclined to toss the whole ambient room temperature theory in the trash, and just dump the stuff in at 68, agitate, and give it 5 seconds agitation at the halfway point. I've had this work too. We have no air-conditioner in our apartment, so now it's nearly 80F in here. And with doing my own C41 and E6 at home already, I'd hate to have to pull out the huge tub and deal with maintaining a water bath for B&W as well... Or fiddle with adjusting times because it's so hot out now..

So I guess if you truly want a full stand development, with no halfway agitation, then yes, the chemicals in the tank must be the same as the ambient room temp.

Sorry to be so confusing. I am just going off my own experiences and relaying information I've read from other people's experiences on this group.
jakub.jira 9 years ago
i´ve used 2,7 ml in 250 ml of water and got really nice results, check it here
www.flickr.com/photos/37733377@N04/3538221866/

week ago i tried 2,5 ml and it seems to be also ok, but i´ve got some problem because of minimal agitation...
ecparker 9 years ago
Yeah, I'm pretty sure it isn't the volume. To stave off any stand development problems, make sure to prewet the film for 3-5 minutes. After developer introduction, give 60 seconds of slow inversion (I just use 60 seconds of slow-mo wrist twisting since I lost my tank cap).
Agfapan-25 PRO 9 years ago
New Dad

If you plan to develop your roll of Efke 127 R100 in rodinal 1-50 or 1.25 get all your processing chemicals at 20 degC.
If you room you are working in is allot cooler or warmer than 20 degC use a water bath to maintain a constant temperature.
For stand development read above.
rolleijoe 9 years ago
The handful of times I've used this setup, there hasn't been any problems with streaking. Mixing up the soup is dead easy (don't have to remember any type of ½ ml type info), just 1 oz of Rodinal to 100 oz of water.

Keep them both @ 20° C, when mixing/pouring, and there's no problem.

Wasn't really very keen on the results, but with Tri-X it definitely gives quite the nice OLD OLD OLD vintage look. (Not being one of those who think "vintage" = 1970s). I mean poor quality 1899 Kodak Brownie results.

Good luck!
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