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We were always taught that you should never do portraits with a single flash, and certainly not one without a softbox because the shadows are just too harsh.
You could try using a series of reflectors though, maybe split the one light source into two.
Posted 64 months ago.
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I agree with Heath. The best way to get one flash to work is to take it off the camera, to one side of the subject and use a reflector on the other side to fill in the shadows. The reflector can be a simple as a piece of white poster board.
You mentioned the Strobist blog. Are you a member of the Strobest.com Flickr group? If not, join and post this question there. I'm sure they will give you plenty of good tips.
Originally posted 64 months ago.
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tbrick edited this topic 64 months ago.
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Thanks for your comments.
Looks like at the least, I need to invest in a ST-E2 remote transmitter to get the flash off camera. Then I can think about how to get it strapped to a tripod or stand.
Sean
Posted 64 months ago.
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This this as well.
ABetterBounceCard.com
Originally posted 64 months ago.
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Ivan Makarov edited this topic 64 months ago.
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www.dg28.com/technique.html
with this link - i have had so much inspiration - that i got happily into
flash photography.
I´m the glad owner of 2 speedlite 580 ex and ST-E2. After that there has been no excuse.
Hope you can use the link - doo try it!
Posted 64 months ago.
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IvanoMak & fotofinn,
Thank you both very much, these are two great resources. I already made my bounce card while watching the video.
Sean
Posted 64 months ago.
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I'm sorry but I totally don't agree with the need for multiple light sources. Sure if you're a studio photographer and you can afford the gear then multiple sources gives you more options and more consistant results. But a single camera mounted flash absolutely CAN be made to give good results. That better bounce card link is WELL worth visiting for starters. And after that get used to bouncing your flash off walls and especially ceilings.
And when shooting with the flash in darker environments always use full manual mode. Just set an aperture you like for depth of field and then choose a shutter speed you can hand hold but no faster than your flash sync speed (probably 1/200th or 1/250th). This way you let the camera handle getting the correct exposure by varying the flash power. It's dead simple and you'll get some great family and unposed portraits this way.
I'm not dissing the portrait studio folks. But if you can't afford that gear or simply don't have time to set it up there's still a lot you can do.
John
Posted 64 months ago.
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Hey guys....
I just got a 430EX also. I am still up in the air about a lot of its features but you definitely can get some cool looking shots with it. It took a lot of messing around but I ended up with this shot just by bouncing the light off the wall to my left. I did some softening and stuff in photoshop but the lighting itself is as is from the shot.
I agree with john about the better bounce card...that works really well for getting a really good, well balanced shot. But as for dramatic shots...I think it's just a matter of how much light you use and where you are pointing it.
Originally posted 64 months ago.
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Joseph M Arthur edited this topic 64 months ago.
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That's about 50 times better than I managed initially. I have yet to try the bounce card, but using the diffuser pulled out with the flash head pointing upward seemed to help alot. Thanks for the 'proof of the pudding' example Joe.
Sean
Posted 64 months ago.
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I think there is an element of practice involved in using bounce flash. I have a 420EX (the fore-runner to the 430) and when I first got it I setup a large teddy bear on a box on a wheely chair and spent an hour shooting it in different ways to see how the light bounced. Mostly for candids and family shots I try to aim the flash up and a litthe backwards. In indoor locations there's usually a wall nearby enough behind you to reflect a good amount of light. Coloured wallpaper or painted walls are a menace, though. But in most houses (in the UK at least) the majority of doors are painted white so you can point at those if you're stuck.
John
Posted 64 months ago.
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It's seems that a lot of wedding photographers swear by the Lightsphere. There are a few interesting videos at this link.
store.garyfonginc.com/liiido.html
Posted 64 months ago.
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I managed to get my fiance to agree to sit for me under pain of death if I dont make her look good. Eak! So I will let you know my results.
Sean
Posted 64 months ago.
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One thing I learned pretty quick with it is to set everything to manual mode. Set your camera to the highest sync rate, (probably 1/200), and then set the aperture you want. Start with a shot on full power flash and then adjust from there until you get what you're looking for. Chances are you will have to lower the flash output, but if you need more light, try raising the ISO. Since there is actually enough light there won't be as much noise in the shot.This is also good for just shooting a bunch of shots in the same lighting environment, like an indoor party. That way you'll get a lot of consistency.
Posted 64 months ago.
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Thanks Joe, Good tip. I almost never shoot manual apart from long exposure, low light, so will give it a go.
Sean
Posted 64 months ago.
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I love available light, but sometimes it needs to be enhanced or even replaced or made as needed.
One light can be great. Flash can work very well. I just have a simple approach:
1) Remove the flash from the hot shoe.
2) Bounce it, diffuse it, make it work for your style.
3) Flash output is very small and harsh, so bounce it off or through larger surfaces to make it softer and more natural (your style here may be different)
I use one to three flashes, and mix with available light, in all kinds of ways. I start with one light and add as workflow dictates to achieve my creative goals. Often one light is enough. I use the flash in full manual mode when I am in control of all elements of the shot/location. I use iTTL (& Nikon CLS) when the lighting changes rapidly. Both methods get me the results; just depends on working speed and complexity of the shot/idea. Wireless flash is also a great location tool. Compact, configurable and infinite setup options when packing light.
All of this requires practice and diligence towards your creative goals. I find it indispensable for location shooting that I do.
Bottom line, it is possible to take great portraits with one flash. You just have to overcome some limitations but also explore the options you do have. Figure out what works for you, start simple and build from there. Your style should dictate your setup, the setup should not dictate your style.
Posted 64 months ago.
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You Canon, flash users make me sick :-)
Just take the shot, Nikon flash on camera..........
And spend about three days correcting everything, in PS.
Have you guys got no spare time to waste?
Originally posted 64 months ago.
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Taz-Voll edited this topic 64 months ago.
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"Your style should dictate your setup, the setup should not dictate your style."
Good advice Landon.
Posted 64 months ago.
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On a related topic I just posted a bunch of family shots to my feed that were all taken with on camera flash. I'd love to hear your thoughts on them - positive and negative.
Taz - actually I think Nikon have Canon beat a little with flash. The Nikon SLRs have flash remote triggering built right into the camera body. And also it's easier to find a sync cable connector on a Nikon flash.
Posted 64 months ago.
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I read somewhere you can actually buy Two lighting stands, one with 60cm softbox, one with a white Brolly. Both with150watt flashes,
Modelling lights and sync./power leads.
All for £200-00 sterling......That's a lot less than my camera's flash.
And I would imagine (with a digital camera) alot easier to get great portraits.
Ok, it's not PRO gear, but at home, on a budget......It would be a good start for someone wanting to dip there toe in, so to speak.
Thanks John.
Call it instinct, call it superiour knowledge, or knowing you "canon set" you'll call it, pure unadulterated poppy-cock.
But I knew Nikon were better!! so nerrrr :-)
Posted 64 months ago.
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