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I get red tones.
Posted 11 months ago.
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 you are getting hot spots because the cabinets are reflecting your lights.
Think about the cabinets not being shiny wood but mirrors. If your camera and lights are arranged in such a manner that your camera would see your lights reflected in the mirror there's your problem.
What you want to do is make your light source as big as possible. If there is a white wall, bounce your lights off the wall. But what if there is no white wall? Then you need to supply something white, large and soft. Some photographers like big soft boxes or umbrellas and those can work well. Another tool that is quite inexpensive are 20x30 inch white foamcore sheets to bounce your lights off. Discount stores, hobby / craft stores and office supply stores are all good sources for foamcore sheets. Here in the USA there is a chain of Dollar Tree stores which have the foam sheets for $1 USD.
Other photographers such as Ashley who shoot for glossy shelter magazines have been known to bring large sheets of white fabric. Parachute fabric is very useful for this. You can either aim your lights through the fabric or bounce lights off it. I have a large muslin drop cloth for the purpose. (When you first get the muslin wash it in bleach water to make white.) First you suspend the fabric then you get your lights back as far as you can so you end up illuminating as much of the back of the fabric as possible. The back-lit illuminated fabric then becomes your large soft light source.
Remember the last thing you want to do is have your key light from near the camera. This will give you flat featureless cabinetry. You want highlights and shadows that will define the wood. It is quite OK to have some fill from the camera area so your shadows have detail.
Experiment and test.
I hope this information is useful to you.
Originally posted 11 months ago.
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AtlantaTerry edited this topic 11 months ago.
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+1 on Terry's advice
Plus, consider that you need some side light to make the molding pop.
If you want super soft light, use two umbrellas - not shoot thru - and have them on the other side of a sheet strung between two light stands. Then use the foamcore on the other side for some fill
You'll get something Vermeer would be proud of.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Here is a PP for a flash bloom:
Use the Polygonal Lasso to select the largest portion of the properly exposed door or cabinet. Hit Ctrl-J to create a layer.
Hit Ctrl-T to free transform the selection. Wood grain is fractal so you can stretch it and it will not look distorted once it is flatten into the image (especially for web usage). If cover over a knob or other fixture you can use a mask to reveal them.
Flatten the image and save it.
Here is a PSD of the file.
PSD File
Originally posted 11 months ago.
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farmer711 edited this topic 11 months ago.
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I use direct flash, off axis to prevent hot spots and get proper detail and color. I would use bounce into panels to fill in the areas where the direct flash beam field is fading.
Originally posted 11 months ago.
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Interface Visual edited this topic 11 months ago.
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Another bounce material easy to get is a fabric shower liner. Side lighting defines profiles.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Thanks guys, this is some great information.
Posted 11 months ago.
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