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Flash units with canon setup

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Northern Beaches Photography & Design says:

Hi all,

Hi all and it is good to be part of such an informative group. I have a background in studio portrait photography but lookin at getting into RE photography. My setup now is canon 60d and 550EX, and lenses.

What would people recommend in terms of an additional 2 flashes. I have seen as 420EX but that does not come with the abilty to manually adjust the light from slave units.

Does the SB24/28 work with canon gear?

I guess what I think would be good would be a cheaper flash that has manual controls and that works with canon setup.

Oh, and another one, do people think the 16-35 lens with a 60d (1.6 CMOS censor) is wide enough for this style of photography?

Thanks all
Posted at 5:06AM, 1 February 2008 PDT (permalink)

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Krynop says:

Most people think you need to get down to a minimum 21mm equivalent focal length. I have Canon's 10-22mm zoom. Sigma has a 10-20mm that is also popular.

Nikon flashes or Vivitar 285V are popular choices.

What's a Canon 60D?
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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Justin Soles says:

As for lenses, Krynop is correct: you need a very wide-angle lens. I believe (and please correct me if I'm wrong) that Canon makes an EXCELLENT 10-22mm lens. I use Nikon and wish we had something as good!

If your DSLR isn't a full frame this translates to 16-35mm in 35mm equivalent, which is just fine for RE photography. The lens is where I'd invest my money, as I hear nothing but good comments about this lens and you can always migrate the lens to a newer body in the future.

With flashes, do you want to be able to adjust and/or trigger the slave flashes from your 'master' flash? If so, I think you're restricted to using Canon's flash lineup; I don't think Nikon & Canon flashes don't 'talk to each other'. However, if you're comfortable with setting up remote triggers (like Pocket Wizards and/or GI/ebay "Poverty" wizards) and manually setting flash output, the world's your oyster. The Nikon SB-24, SB-26, and SB-28/28DX are very good flashes, although they can be pricey and may be hard to find in your market (call it the "strobist effect").

HTH! Look forward to seeing your shots in the pool! :)
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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jyearwoo says:

I highly recommend the Canon 10-22mm. I was hesitant about spending the money on it rather than some of the other brands, but it has been the best investment I have made to date. As long as I keep the camera level, I have very little distortion to clean up in post.
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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Scott Pruett says:

I have a D60 (pre 10/20/30/40D, circa '02, for you folks newer to the DSLR world) as well; it will work fine for RE work, but will not accept a 10-22, as that lens is an EF-S mount. Your best bet is a Sigma 10-20mm, IMO. The 16-35/2.8 is a nice lens, but not wide enough.
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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Greg Riegler Photography  Pro User  says:

I've used both the Canon 10-22mm and (own) the Tokina 12-24mm. If you are looking to save a little you can shoot for the Tokina. Which is about $200 less than the Canon. But I didn't enjoy the canon 10-22mm The angle of view, though, is nearly the same between the 2. The canon 60D is an old body isn't it?

Canon 60D

Originally posted 53 months ago. (permalink)
Greg Riegler Photography edited this topic 53 months ago.

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Scott Pruett says:

haha where did you find a "60D" image? There was no such thing. D60, yes. It has a 6mp CMOS chip (plenty for RE), shoots a max iso of 1000, but still creates great low-iso RAWs.

regarding flash setups, the 550 and 420 will be inconsistent unless used w/ full manual control. The 420 is fully auto, so it's not ideal (unless you can control its slave ratio w/ the 550?).

Nikon speedlights won't work w/ the Canon bodies. It'd be worth looking into a Vivitar 285hv (fully manual, but only $90) or the like.
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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veritas_images says:

Whew! for a moment, I thought 50d came and left while I was catching up on last season of Battlestar Galactica!
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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Northern Beaches Photography & Design says:

Yes Justin, I would be happy to use the flashes on manual, and would use a magic trigger/ GI triggers to have them talk to one another. So as far as you know any flash will work (Nikon, Vivitar etc).

However, Scott says they won't work together?

Scott, I read some reviews that say that the sigma lenses are inconsistent in quality. What are you thoughts here since you recommend the sigma 10-22mm lense?
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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Northern Beaches Photography & Design says:

Further to my previous post after more research, I am considering one of three lenses and would like people opinions (to use with my d60).

1. Canon 14mm f2.8L (Mark I not mark II) - it seems that this is a good quality lense (Scott Hargis I believe you recommended this - which edition do you have?)
2. Sigma 10-20mm lense - I have read some reviews that say that the build quality is very inconsistent which makes me nervous to get this since I will get it on ebay sight unseen. Has anyone heard this report too?
3. Tokina 12-24mm f4

Is it true that of these lenses, only the canon would be able to use both on my d60 (not full frame) and on a full frame body I will buy next?

What are peoples opinion/experience?
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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VibrantPhotographs says:

I believe that Sigma is able to be used on a FF body.... confirm on their web-site but I'm pretty sure I recall something about this one.
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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Justin Soles says:

@Shantos

Lenses: I own a Sigma 10-20mm (Nikon mount) - I like it a lot and it works well for me. Mind you, the guy I bought it from was trading up to a Tokina 12-24mm and based on what I've heard from others, I'd probably go w/this lens if I had to do it again: better general build quality and less distortion.

Flashes: If you're using a GI wireless trigger, any flash should work in theory. Unfortunately, I'm finding that the GI triggers work better on the hotshoe with flashes that fire at lower trigger voltages. I've got a Nikon SB-80 that fires at a lower voltage (4v) and a Starblitz (AKA Tokina) flash that only fires at a higher trigger voltage (6v) . My GI triggers only work with the Nikon on the hotshoe, not the Starblitz. So my advice would be to stick with Nikon/Canon (V2 triggers)/Vivitar and you'll be fine.

@Vibrant Photographs - I also think you can use the Sigma lens on the FF body to get the full 10-20mm focal length, but you'll probably suffer from some vignetting and distortion at the 10mm length.
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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Scott Pruett says:

I have used 2 Sigma 10-20mm lenses. One Nikon mount, one Canon (my ex- business partner's). They're good lenses & have been quite dependable. Build quality is great, image quality is good. I use the 10-20 alongside a 10.5mm fisheye & the 10-20 is slightly less sharp & less contrasty, but both of those characteristics have been no big deal, as I post-process everything anyway... plus prime lenses will almost always be better (you pay for it too). Personally I think you'll be hard pressed to find a better ultrawide for the price. I'd buy another Sigma 10-20 w/o hesitation if I needed to.

The 10-20 will *not* work well on FF, as you'll get heavy vignetting. A 12-24 is as wide as you can get for FF.
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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veritas_images says:

take a look in photozone.de and slrgear.com on comparing the UWA lenses. The EFS 10-22 has consistently come out as the top choice. Less distortion, well controlled CA and not as prone to flare as the other brands. If money is no object, get the EF-S 10-22. I believe it comes with UD lenses which is one of the key optics for Ls.
Posted 53 months ago. (permalink)

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