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Danz-My Bad Habits - Updated 11-15
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Hi hope I dont sound pretentious about leaving some of my habits about how I use the camera here. I get a so many emails a day asking me about how I take shots, I figure if I make a FAQ that is here, then it would promote the FZ50 and create more interest in the group.
This is just the way I use the camera. I have never read the manual or even learned what the other settings mean. I will update this so it covers all the ussual questions I get. So here goes.
Habits
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1. I always focus on Marco mode both outside and inside. In studio I use the macro focus then switch to manual focus to shoot.
2.Always keep the lens hood on to make the camera look bigger than it is. Gets more respect from the subject that way. Maybe its a guy thing.
3.I always shoot with the WB that looks like a lightning bolt. Never have used anything else.
4. I dont convert my images from Color to BW etc. BW is shot BW etc.
5.Auto focus chews up batteries, I have 5 batteries on standby on shoots. Also when I am doing documentary shots.
6.Dont use any filters on the lens, I do have a red and orange one. But never use it.
7. Almost always shoot in studio 12-14 feet away from the subeject. Even headshots. That means I zoom to the subjects face. I should really be a 50mm for that. But I find that light has wonderful levels when I am zoomed. Gradients come out better.
8.Shots are taken in 10mp and all in JPEG.
9.Some memory cards write slower than others so you need to time how long it takes for the next shot. I use Trancends 150x SD cards.
10. For movement shots it is best to anticipate where the subject will, almost pretending that you are him
www.flickr.com/photos/lost-moments/273846335/
--Updated March 4th------------
11. I use the in camera modes alot. Warm / Cool and Black and White. Easier to see the final shot in camera than in photoshop. Shooting everyday wont leave you much time to do port work. If you can get it in the camera then you save time. No amount of photoshop can make a bad image good.
12. Always check the shots during the shoot on a larger screen, the back of the camera is deceptive at times. Proofing the shots on screen are done in a dim room.
13. As of a month ago, I stopped shooting at high apertures. I use my whole studio walls and ceilings as a huge fill reflector now.
14.Dance photos are shot with the Wide lens add on that you can get from Panasonic Lumix.
15. I shoot 1 handed most of the time. Quicker and the other hand lets you direct the model, turn on and off the fan, move the lights. part of the reason I stick to thsi camera because it feels like part of hand. The body isnt too big or too small
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Hope this helps make the experience of shoot more enjoyable and helps with the results
Originally posted at 8:54AM, 25 February 2008 PDT
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Danz in Studio edited this topic 52 months ago.
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Pretty cool Danz, thanks for sharing! :)
Posted 52 months ago.
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Ah , super. It is so great that you've tried to explain the rest of us FZ50 users that the simplest way is the best ...
Thanks ;)
I look forward to a lighting setup tutorial, or just maybe help for selecting equpement...
Posted 52 months ago.
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Thanks Danz.....
Posted 52 months ago.
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Many thanks Daniel. I couldn't resist having a little comment on each of your points as ideas for discussion.
1. The manual says the camera takes longer to focus in macro on objects over 1 m, though how much longer it doesn't say, and I've never tried to time it. It obviously makes no difference to you.
2. I always keep the lens hood on, for similar reasons to yours. I have to remember to remove it when using the camera's flash, but it goes back on when I've finished!
3. The lightning bolt WB is the flash setting, and it would never have occurred to me to use that for anything else. Looks like a good excuse to experiment, using every WB setting for the same photo, to compare.
4. Most people shoot in colour and then convert to BW, but if you know from the start you want BW, it makes sense to shoot in it.
5. 5 batteries. 5 batteries! I'm still getting by with just the one... But of course you'd feel very silly asking your model to go away for an hour or so because you needed to charge your flat battery. Very unprofessional.
6. I can understand your not using filters in the studio as I can imagine any effects you need can be controlled by your lighting set up, or post processing later.
7. Zooming in for headshots rather than getting closer and using wide angle is much more flattering to the model. No disproportionately large noses!
8. Shooting at 10mp I would expect, but I was a bit surprised to find you didn't use RAW. Perhaps that's to do with the extra time needed, and if you get the results you want with jpeg, then there's no need to bother.
9. I was surprised that you found the write time to the card an issue. I find it noticeable only when I use RAW, or long exposure times.
10. I haven't done many movement shots, so I'll keep your ideas in mind for when I try next.
But of course, all of that is only the start of what you do. The next stage is the studio and lighting, and then the skill required to use them to produce the results you get. Just like Atahack, I'm interested in finding out a bit more. :-)
Posted 52 months ago.
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Thanks Danz. I'm actually setting up my first studio. Very helpful tips!
Posted 52 months ago.
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i am curious danz as to why you choose to use the fz50 if you are proffesional. any main reason? just about any proffesional would say use a dslr due to the larger sensor. my guess is the fz50 produces sharper (well to me) shots than many dslr's out of camera shots; and with the fz50, if you have light you're safe from noise.
Originally posted 52 months ago.
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flickery88 edited this topic 52 months ago.
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I would think it is as much (if not more) about the photographer as it is about the camera. A good photographer can take an average camera and still end up with good photos (and visa versa). It's about knowing the camera and knowing how to get the best out of it.
Posted 52 months ago.
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Yeah David, Danz's post is a good example that you can bend the rules, misuse the settings on a camera and still get great shots. It's not the camera that's taking the photo after all.
However if anyone's reading Danz's post and thinks that copying his steps will lead to photo Nirvana then, well... There's a few things in the list you might not want to imitate!
Macro focus will lead to longer focus time in general since it starts the focus closer, but Danz negates this side effect by locking the focus once it's there.
Shooting in B&W looses you a LOT of possibilities - that's fine, just so long as you're aware of that.
Only using one fixed WB will be fine if it's the one that matches where you take your shots, but for most auto-WB is the way to go.
JPG only is great for churning out images fast; but if you invest the time getting into a good RAW work flow then this too can be automated to spit out the JPGs as fast as you can take them off the card.
(totally agree with points 6 and 10)
L/
Originally posted 52 months ago.
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Lee Kindness edited this topic 52 months ago.
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Thank you for the kind words and insightful feedback. I will try to answer any questions any moment I have,
@Atahack - You are welcome, as for a light setup tutorial I think it may cause havoc than help. I never have a set plan for lighting. I really make it up as I go. Every model is different and I find the light that suits them most.
@John 106 : Thanks for the feedback.As for BW and Sepia. Well to be honest, besides knowing how I want the shot in camera. The underlying reason is that I shot outside documentary shots and indoor shots with so many Film photogs. It amazes me that they dont have an option if they have BW. Its is a tribute to the masters and the wonderful people I have shot with as well. And I think it has helped me simply the process and helped me get the results quicker and better than playing post.
As for the lighting Tutorial I will try to come with something simple. Although most of my lighting is1 light setup
@flickery88:
Wellpart of choosing the FZ30 and 50 was because of price. Then familiarity and then cause I know the camera so well and I shoot 1 handed. I love the lens and I know how light works with it. And I can compensate against noise when I shoot.
I do plan to upgrade to bigger sensor. I am looking at the L1 or the L10. The camera is a tool, just as long as you have the tool that works for you. Not a tool a tool you have to work for.
@davidgscott64:
Pretty much said it there. I spend so much time with my original FZ30 that at times I feel strange not having it my hand.
Dont let specs let you do what you really want to do.
@Lee Kindness:
I really love your post. And so agree with you. I posted this as my bad habits. This my style and how I developed them to work for me. I experimented like a kid with too much coffee in him with my camera. I do know the right way to set things up for a text book shoot but I never follow it.
Sometimes I see I a Irving Penn Shot or a Demarchelier Shot, and I so want to try it, but I realised that no matter how much I tried it, it never was the same, but looking at thier work helped me shoot better.
Macro Focus for me was fast when I was shooting candid street photos. flickr.com/photos/lost-moments/ There was never any set up or time to focus.
Agree with the BW part totally.
I think you are right about the WB. For me I found that the one I chose works best with me in Studio. Sorry should of mentioned this. That I use the lighting bolt for studio only. Outside I use Auto
RAW vs JPG. Both are good and bad. There are so many threads on the net about this so I wont rehash.
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Thanks for taking time to read my bad habits and I hope some of them have helped make shooting more enjoyable and memorable for you
Posted 52 months ago.
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