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The definate tutorial

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_RV_  Pro User  says:

I'm observing that many people can't manage to achieve a good final result for the Orton Effect and are uploading photos to this group that don't look as if they had the OE at all.

Here you can see a very easy tutorial in seven steps, that will give your photos the real OE looks.

1 - Open any image you wish to try the technique on. Make a duplicate of the image (Image>Duplicate). Close the original image.

2 - Lighten the image as follows: Image>Apply Image… then in the dialog box that comes up change the bending mode to “Screen” and the Opacity to 100%. This will give you an appropriately overexposed image.

3 - Duplicate this overexposed image (Image>Duplicate).

4 - Blur this second image (Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur… and in the dialog box use a Radius setting of 15 to 50 pixels – the higher the pixel setting the blurrier the photo and the more ‘painterly’ the image… but you can't go too far!). Experiment with different settings, for my tastes a radius of about 25 pixels works perfect.

5 - Now select the move tool from the Photoshop tool bar (or just press “v” on your keyboard for quicker access to the move tool). Hold down the “shift” key and use your mouse to drag and drop the blurry image onto the sharp one (don’t let go of the shift key until after you release the mouse button or the images won’t be in perfect alignment).

6 - Bring up the layers palette in Photoshop (F7 is the keyboard shortcut). Under the word “Layers” in the layers palette will be a menu box of blending modes. Change the blending mode from “normal” to “multiply”.

7 - Now “flatten’ the two layers by pressing “CTRL+E” or by clicking on the sideways triangle in the layers palette to select ‘flatten image’.

There, you now have an Orton
Originally posted at 10:12PM, 25 June 2008 PDT (permalink)
_RV_ edited this topic 48 months ago.

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erinBu says:

great tutorial! you should call it "orton for dummies"....totally worked for me...lol!
Thanks! :)
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Alex Arnold Fotografie  Pro User  says:

thanks a lot for posting this I have been a part of this group for days but havent posted anything. Now im excited to post some stuff :)
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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_RV_  Pro User  says:

You all are welcome!
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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ClawzCTR says:

Im new to Orton, but would it not make more sense to duplicate the image to a new layer, use the 'eye' button to make the bottom layer invisble and do all the work on the duplicated layer, lighten this layer, then duplicate it again, do the blur, then change the blending modes for each layer.
Just an idea ;)
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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_RV_  Pro User  says:

What I wrote here was the easiest way to achieve the results. If you find another way, but getting the same results, fine. What I think is disturbing and even irritating is people uploading noisy blurred photos here and calling them "orton", as we can see in this group and in other groups every day.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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JPaul23 says:

definitive
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Debs1968  Pro User  says:

Thank you for the info. It's a really cool effect. I've just posted my first two Orton images. I do hope they're not noisy or blurry!
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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chrisdonia  Pro User  says:

I must say, I tend to use Orton very gently - just to make things a little bit glow-ey...
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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DanRhett  Pro User  says:

You will all find this method the easiest and quickest to follow, by using layers and merging at the right place in the workflow redundant steps are eliminated.
pcin.net/update/2006/11/01/the-orton-effect-digital-photo...
Dogwood on Redbud
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
DanRhett edited this topic 47 months ago.

Archie-Lukas [deleted] says:

Anyone feeling upto translating into the more affordable
Paint Shop Pro X2 dialogue?

Photoshop is the same cost in England as dollars in USA, ie double your costs, so take up is less.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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The*Archivist says:

Awesome Tut!

I ran through it once and liked the results, Made it into a Action, as all my photos are the same resolution, it should be fine.

Orton Laural Point
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
The*Archivist edited this topic 47 months ago.

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dawnzilla says:

This tutorial appears to have been taken from:

www.naturephotographers.net/articles0106/dw0106-1.html

and was in fact written and copyrighted by Darwin Wiggett.
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
dawnzilla edited this topic 47 months ago.

Mr Weatherbee [deleted] says:

Ouch! Nice catch, Dawnzilla.

This is a good tutorial, it's just unfortunate that the guy who put it together was given no credit. Clearly a link to the author's page would have been the right (and I think you realize, legal) thing to do. Very bad form to rip off someone's copyright, copying this guide directly from his website. Romeo, if this is the respect you have for copyrighted material, you need to modify your profile. There's no reason to expect people to honor the concept of a copyright on your images if you don't do the same.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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Walter Ezell  Pro User  says:

The "tutorial" was copied word-for-word from the Wiggett article. But the Wiggett article is more authoritative, because of the author's experience. It is easier to understand, because it includes illustrations. It is more complete, because it describes the original Orton film sandwiching technique, so we can understand the effect we are trying to recreate in Photoshop, rather than mindlessly following a recipe.

Stealing this author's work was way out of bounds and in fact much less helpful than a simple and enthusiastically recommended link would have been. After reading the abridged "tutorial" I was still bewildered, but after reading the Darwin Wiggett article, I understand what all the excitement is about and know what effect I will try to achieve. Hats off to dawnzilla.
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
Walter Ezell edited this topic 47 months ago.

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Walter Ezell  Pro User  says:

OK I tried this technique and this is what I had less than half an hour later. It's a start, anyway.

Mabry Mill 569_orton
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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basswork says:

If you shadows get too clogged by this process, select the multipled layer and double-click the layer. Not the layer name, but anywhere next to it.

A layer style dialog will appear. Look at the Blend If section. On the gradient that says "This layer" move the black diamond to the right and watch your shadow detail come back.

You'll also see an awful, blotchy transition. To fix that, hold down your ALT key and grab one side of that diamond and pull it back to the left.

Basically, what you're doing is telling PS not to apply the multiply effect to certain tones, in this case, the dark tones.
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
basswork edited this topic 47 months ago.

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KayCpics is a group administrator KayCpics says:

This tutorial has existed on the main page of the group since its inception. I don't see how this can contribute to the group so I am closing this thread before it becomes nasty.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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