|
Great video, Bob. Thanks for the effort. The video is easy to follow and informative. I think anyone that is creating orton images should watch this tutorial. It does not matter if this is your first orton or your 50th you will learn something new.
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Ooh excellent, thanks for doing that Bob, will go download and check it out now, and hopefully post a few of my results soon :)
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Super tutorial! Very good work - will try this out. Hope I can get results almost as good as yours.
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Excellent tutorial, just finished watching it, thank you so much for taking the time to make it, definitely going to give this a go, and thanks for leaving the end-result here for us to see too, it's good to see how the tutorial came out (a bit hard to tell on youtube).
Marvellous, thanks
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I tried this on the photo you suggested and loved it...
Thanks for taking the time to explain this process... Here it is now:
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Great tutorial!
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Thats a great tutorial and very useful. Thanks for sharing your process!
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Great tutorial, really good work, thanks for sharing. Tutorial exceed all my waitings. Very clear presentation, witch contains different subordinate tutorials like comparing different methods to get overexposured photos or using layer mask.
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Wow, man. Thanks for taking the time... I learned cool extra stuff I can use on orton, but the layer grouping and layer mask explaination will be extremely helpful to me in other things, as well.
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Glad you learned somethign from it. As for time....
10 minutes to record..
15 minutes to load Premire.
30 minutes to learn camera zooms.
24 hours of laptop chugging along! Won't use that system again!
Posted 76 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Great , thank you. Lots of stuff you explained I already knew but it can't hurt to hear it again.
I always use eraser instead of layer mask but I'm starting to understand what the advantage of a mask is - you can paint white over it to undo the erasing.
One question: What is the advantage of opening adjustment layers for the levels? I normally adjust levels on the layer itself.
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
By using levels in its own layer, you can paint in the mask.
In the extreme, put a levels layer on to brighten dark areas, also a levels layer to darken bright areas. Paint in the masks to get the ideal brighness for each part of the picture.
In context for Orton, you can keep an area from blowing out (too bright with just apply image) at the same time as keeping an area from getting too dark during the multiply step.
The best of all worlds.
Originally posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
someotherbob edited this topic 75 months ago.
|
|
Brilliant tutorial Bob and thanks for your generosity in putting it out for all to learn. Thanks also to my fellow countryman Belial for leading me to it.
Peter.
Originally posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
freakdogsuncle edited this topic 75 months ago.
|
|
|
Oh, i see... the adjustment level consists of levels only, it holds no photo... didn't know that.
After painting on a layer mask, how can I go back to working in the layer the normal way again? I can't click the mask button again, there must be some other way?
edit: i think i found it... by clicking on the 'link' symbol
Originally posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
عʈ¡ - ʇıɯs ıʇə ʞıɹə edited this topic 75 months ago.
|
|
|
Here is another photo that used the 3-layer process.
Originally posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
someotherbob edited this topic 54 months ago.
|
|
Thanks for the great tutorial.. I like the results alot.
I did notice that when I mask out the blurred layer it is also masking out the levels adjustment attached to that layer? I couldnt find any easy way to mask out the blur only? Any ideas...(or did I just miss something)
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
What you see is likely the result of falttening layers? Keep the 3 image layers separate from the 3 adjustment layers. When you mess with the blur layer mask, it should show through the lower layers without causing any exposure changes, since you are not changing any of the exposure layers.
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
i will look at this when at home!
thanks
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Kudos! Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing!
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
That's a great technique, allowing you to add sharpness wherever you like without changing the brightness of the final image.
For those working in PaintShop Pro, provided you have the levels adjustment layer as the top layer in each major group you don't need another levels adjustment layer for the middle layer. :)
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Hey Someotherbob,
First of all, great tutorial, thanks for taking the time.
Question for you though, when I follow your tutorial, I can't work out what the function is of the middle two layers.
1) Bottom layer = background
2) Levels adjustment to boost exposure of background
Top two layers are the blurred layer with levels adjustment (blend mode multiplied), so what do layers 3 & 4 do? I could hide these layers and not see any noticable difference.
I must be missing a step somewhere.
Thanks in advance
Brent
So wh
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Let's ignore the exposure adjustment layers and the bottom one for now, so we can talk about the top 2 photo layers.
The top one is blurred, the other one is sharp. Without masking, all you see the blur across the entire picture. Masking the blur lets some parts of the next layer down show through and be seen as sharp.
These 2 layers need to be combined with an over exposure to make up the blurred Orton layer, which really is now partially blurred. But you still need an overeposure that is applied across the whole picture.
Then add in the over exposed bottom layer, the multiply step works correctly. You can of course add masking in the exposure adjustment layers to keep spots from being too dark and others too light.
The purpose for grouping is so that they can be acted on as a whole for the multiply step. This is the same overall effect as flattening, but allowing you to go into each layer and make further adjustments.
I always like to avoid flattening until I make a JPG.
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Hey Bob--great tutorial! Your method is much more convenient than some others I've seen--going to try it right away. Thanks!
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Fantastic Video, really informative, especially the brightness control. I really need to watch it again, never thought to use mask layers within the effect, If you ever get round to it, I would love to be able to print off a wirtten copy of how you did it. Of course, you probably have a million other things to do.
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
 |
queguenae [deleted] says:
Se agradeceria si alguien lo traduciera al español
Posted 75 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Great tutorial... Gonna see if I can do some of that layer trickery with PanitShop..
thanks
Posted 74 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Just watched the video last night. Great job and thank you so much for taking the time to produce it. I learned quite a bit from it.
Posted 74 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Bob, thanks so much for sharing this technique. It's great to be able to selectively keep parts of the image sharp. In following your video there is one change I found I had to make in order the maintain the proper exposure when using the sharpening mask. I'm using Photoshop CS2 and I found I had to eliminate (or disable) the levels adjustment layer associated with the middle image layer. If I didn't, erasing parts of the blurred top layer to regain sharpness resulted in over exposing those areas. Here's my first attempt using your technique where I kept sharpness in the eyes, lips, and teeth.
Posted 74 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
big thanks for the great video, nice to see how others are doin it.
thanks for postin.
Posted 66 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Thanks for the tutorial. Can the video be downloaded? I would really like to have this in file.
Posted 64 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
thanks for the tutorial. really help me a lot .
Posted 64 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I really want to try this and think your tutorial will be extremely helpful. But help! I am stuck in Elements 5.0 and struggling to follow/find everything. I am not a photoshop wizard, but I'd sure love to try Orton!!
Posted 63 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
I thank you too Bob
Posted 63 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Good tutorial. Works quite well! Thanks!
Posted 60 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
Useful Tutorial. Nice Job !!!
Originally posted 56 months ago.
(permalink)
latarea_kamparea edited this topic 56 months ago.
|
|
Viewed it .. didn't understand a damn thing! Viewed it again .. a flickr of light appeared! Viewed it again, understood it, liked it, played with the technique, got hooked .. and have just joined the group. Nice one, Bob ....
Posted 56 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
This is a tutorial that I found and used to give my first try at Orton...
pcin.net/update/2006/11/01/the-orton-effect-digital-photo...
Posted 53 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
|
Thanks for the link whitecat.
Posted 53 months ago.
(permalink)
|
|
i'm a new here and i like you very much
commented by Glass Countertops| Frieze Carpet
Posted 33 months ago.
(permalink)
|
Would you like to comment?
Sign up for a free account, or sign in (if you're already a member).
|
Orton /
Discuss
Feed – Subscribe to Orton discussion threads