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Thank you for this little tutorial.
Though, the link doesn't work :-/
Posted 77 months ago.
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here i think: http://www.hadleyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CZ5/combinez5.htm
Posted 77 months ago.
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Thanks Schizoform- have updated the link (I think).
Brian V.
Posted 77 months ago.
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Thank you posting this tutorial, Brian.....MUCH appreciated by those of us who would like to give the focus stacking a try.....but did not know how to get started.
Posted 77 months ago.
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Very cool, I've never heard of focus stacking until today, but the possibility of doing something like this had occurred to me. Kind of like HDR except with focus instead of exposure. Using both techniques together could get very interesting.
I use a Mac, so cominez5 won't work for me. I did a search on Version Tracker and didn't find anything similar for the Mac OS. If anyone in the group knows of such a program, or has any experience focus stacking manually in PhotoShop, I'd be interested.
Posted 75 months ago.
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Hi Finistr
Helicon have released focus stacking prog on a MAC- 30 day free trial $30 after
www.myzips.com/software/Helicon-Focus-Mac.phtml
There is some other freeware software for the mac- I'll see if I can locate it.
Think the freeware one is this- bigwww.epfl.ch/demo/edf/
Brian V.
Originally posted 75 months ago.
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Lord V edited this topic 75 months ago.
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Thanks so much Lord V, I'll check it out.
Posted 75 months ago.
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awesome programme, and well explained!! i have tried it and you really do need to keep the subject in the same position, as if its only a fraction out you get lines and stuff round some the edges.
Posted 75 months ago.
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tr33lo
Yes you do sometimes get halo effects- I just remove them with the clone tool. Think this mainly occurs if there are rotational differences between the pics which combinez5 does not check for.
Brian V.
Posted 75 months ago.
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Excellent explanation: I'll have to try this sometime.
Posted 74 months ago.
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Awesome, thanks for the info.
Posted 73 months ago.
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Thank you so much. I followed the link here from your 100% fly crop. I have never heard of focus stacking and I've been taking tons of Dragonfly macros lately and I can't wait to have a moment to see if I can pull off a dragonfly focus stack.
Posted 73 months ago.
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I did several dragons last year- works well as long as nothing moves.
Brian V.
Posted 73 months ago.
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I´ve asked this to you in another picture, but then I found this tutorial!!
Thanks Brian! ^^
Posted 72 months ago.
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why not using photoshop? :)
Posted 67 months ago.
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This is much easier than photoshop because the prog does the alignment, resizing, colour matching etc for you. I do use photoshop to tidy up after if necessary.
Brian V.
Posted 67 months ago.
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I have tried it with 9 pictures.
I focussed each time (manually) a bit further.

thank you Lord
Originally posted 65 months ago.
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Dirk Delbaere edited this topic 58 months ago.
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Ronan O Keeffe [deleted] says:
Brilliant tutorial, well done.
Posted 64 months ago.
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jazzology [deleted] says:
Searching "Stacking" I come across this... Nice example of a "Louisiana Iris" "I. fulva" Our state flower and now in prolific bloom just about anywhere that stays wet...
I'm trying "imagej" as I'm on a mac
cheers, Jeff...from the camel
Posted 62 months ago.
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Thanks for this very helpful tutorial. I've just referred a great flickr friend to focus stacking and really appreciated someone had already done such a nice guide.
Originally posted 61 months ago.
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Fort Photo edited this topic 61 months ago.
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I regretted why I havn't discovered this a long time ago. Thanks a lot Lord V for this tutorial. I'm bit fan of your macro work.
Posted 60 months ago.
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Another focus stacking program for Mac is Photo Acute Studio. It also has a number of other functions for stacked images, such as noise reduction, elimination of moving objects, etc
photoacute.com/studio/index.html
Originally posted 44 months ago.
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Zozo Calypso edited this topic 44 months ago.
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Photoshop CS4 will have this feature too.
Posted 44 months ago.
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I have Photoshop CS4, but can find nothing about how to use it to do focus stacking. I see that LordV uses CombineMZ. I have tried Helicon Focus, with pretty good initial results, but am wondering whether anyone has made a comparison of these three software options for doing focus stacking.
Anyone?
Posted 39 months ago.
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Hi Lord V and all
The other day i was trying to take a series of pics of a watch with focus stacking. But at the end i noticed that with the change of focus point the subjects also moves a little. i tried to auto blend it in ps4 but the result is not as perfect as i wanted it to be. I heard that one has to move the camera according focus point. Can u pl! tell me what should i do to solve this issue .
Thank You
Posted 39 months ago.
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I've seen excellent stacks doen with both the combine series (combine z5, combinezm and combinezp) as well as helicon focus. Not really seen much done with cs4 yet.
Posted 39 months ago.
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urgyen.- how are you changing the focus point ?
The FOV will change slightly as you move in - this means that each image slice has slightly different sizes which are automatically re-sized when you use stacking software. Not sure if you are suffering from too much movement but often when doing manual focus stacking you may need to re-size the images and perhaps rotate them a bit to get them to align before trying to overlay them.
brian V.
Posted 39 months ago.
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Hi Lord V
Thank you very much for ur time. I had some other issues so i couldn't answers ur question earlier. Mean while i tried to stack photos with helicon and it worked really good.
Thank you once again for sharing ur knowledge with us.
Posted 39 months ago.
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Hi Brian
I'm finding CS4 much more forgiving than Combine ZM with respect to frame to frame alignment and halos.
Linden
Posted 39 months ago.
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Hi Lord V,
I have been having issues with stacking using Combine ZM. The output is not as sharp as I expected. Should I use more frames? When I used more than 3 frames, artifacts showed up. Secondly, when I try to stack a straight object, the output seems to "bend" to one side. How can I resolve this? And lastly, I have tried using Helicon Focus, but the output seems like it's been rotated on the axis. Can you help me with my issues? Thank you for sharing. Rio.
Originally posted 38 months ago.
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riosundoro edited this topic 38 months ago.
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Hi Rio - must admit I don't use CZM- I tend to use the older CZ5 (it's better at not having artifacts). Interestingly I took the sharpening routines out of the stack macro as I didn't like the results (oversharpened) so I sharpen after in PS. WRT not getting sharp images- are the individual slices sharp in the first place ?
One thing none of the stacking progs are good at is handling low contrast detail.
What magnification and aperture are you using for the shots ?
Brian V.
Posted 38 months ago.
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Hi Lord V,
Thank you, I will try to use the older CZ5 instead. I use EF 100mm for the lens, at 1:1 magnification and f/11. I have recently read somewhere, that with that lens, I shouldn't be setting aperture lower than f/5.6 due to diffraction, Is it true? Thank you again for your guidance.
Posted 38 months ago.
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Hi R10,
re the aperture and diffraction, The real answer is you should use whatever aperture you need to get the effect you want. It's true especially with macro that images suffer from diffraction softening, but they also suffer often from lack of DOF and you just need to balance the two effects.
I'm a bit of detail junkie but still take most of my 1:1 shots at F11, true they will be slightly sharper at F8 but I don't like the DOF loss. You start seeing very significant sharpness loss at 1:1 at about F16 or smaller.
Brian V.
Posted 38 months ago.
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Hi Lord V, thank you for your tips... Regards, Rio.
Posted 38 months ago.
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I tried both, and found the Helicon focus interesting.
i am only trying, there were few movements due to focus adjustments and movement of subject.
helicon did well to sort it, but costs $200.
Posted 37 months ago.
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There is another new software prog around now that is getting good reports - think the beta is free. Zerene stacker
here zerenesystems.com/stacker/
Posted 37 months ago.
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Here's my first attempt on Photoshop CS4: www.flickr.com/photos/prodigi/3780568746/
Originally posted 34 months ago.
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ProDigi edited this topic 34 months ago.
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Pro-digi- came out beautifully !
Brian V.
Posted 34 months ago.
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I've installed a newer version, the combine ZP. It won't handle full size images for me because it says there's insufficient memory. Is the 500 MB of my computer not enough? How much memory does it require? I have windows XP. What's the problem?
Posted 34 months ago.
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Maikki - can only say I use 2GB of memory in my machine- you do need a lot for full size focus stacking.
Brian V.
Posted 34 months ago.
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Hmmm... I'll try using my external hard drive. That's got plenty of space!
Posted 34 months ago.
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Thanks Lord V!! Great tutorial.
I tried the combinez5 software but I got way better results using CS4 and the following steps:
1) File>>scripts>>Load files into stack, making sure you check "attempt to align layers" box
2)Once loaded, Edit>> auto blend layers
It did a great job, quick & easy.
My original unstacked file from yesterday:

and my Focus Stacked (6 frames) image from today:

Cheers and thanks heaps,
Mark
Posted 33 months ago.
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Mark looks good !
Doesn't matter how you do the stacking really- it's just the idea, however I have found zerene stacker (google it) is very good.
Brian v.
Posted 33 months ago.
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I d usually done this without know that there are programs that do this ...

and quite the same but made as usual by hand and in a more artistic way...

now I have to try it with macro...
Originally posted 31 months ago.
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nicolamarini79 edited this topic 31 months ago.
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Thank you for this terrific information! I've been having a focus problem with my new Raynox DCR-250. Now I can try to focus stack my macro photos to make a super photo! Thanks for the links!
Posted 29 months ago.
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lordV i have a question, how come some of the aperture in macro photography is F0.0, is there a special tool to obtain that aperture?
thanks
Posted 28 months ago.
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I think f/0.0 is caused by the camera not been able to read the lens settings due to reversal of lens of some other attachment ?
Posted 28 months ago.
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Yes F0 just means no aperture reading available.
Brian v.
Posted 28 months ago.
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Just wanted to add a few things.
I have used CombineZM enough times now to become half decent with the software but I have found that if you are using CZM that the stack & alignment within PS CS4 seems to be a lot more capable in my view.
Generally I now stack my photos within PS CS 4 first and crop the photo so that CZM doesnt end up having to work with non-existant edges. I then re order the layers in PS in order and then save them out individually, all as TIFFs.
CZM then seems to produce better results.
Secondly, I have been in touch with the Zerene people because I had issues re installing a trial, as I wanted to re-evaluate the software and make a final decision between this and CZM. They are VERY helpful. I had issues after reinstalling it that Zerene tending to cause errors which is more than likely due to the fact that I am running a 64 bit machine with Vista. Emailed the error and DXdiagnostics to him and he said he'd get back to me.
Very good customer support by the look of it, if this is how Zerene handles its customers I'd be very happy to pay for the software (Once its working on my PC). Plus then theres the fact that it seems to produce better results than CZM from what I have seen of other peoples work.
Posted 28 months ago.
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Have to admit I really did not get on with CZM and reverted to using CZ5 before going onto zerene stacker.
The author of zerene stacker can be found hanging about on this forum photomacrography.net/forum/
Posted 28 months ago.
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Thank for such a great insight into how to get sharp and clear shots in macro! I will try both the CombineZP and also in CS4 the same. Just one comment in case someone got stuck in CS4 doing this, I just tried it out with 2 unrelated pictures and I could not see the command "auto blend" in Edit until I selected both layers at once.
Posted 27 months ago.
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So a question for all on stacking and fringing.
When taking the images and focussing across the DoF of the object I find that the images taken grows/shrinks as you change the focus and you get a number of images each with the sharpness at a different depth (desirable) but they are of differing sizes. Subsequently when stacking this creates a fringe effect where a feint ghost of the largest image surrounds the stacked image.
You can see it here easily because of the white petals on the darker background just hover to see the notes and then if you go to the larger image it's very obvious.
I've tried combinezm and zerene stacker and both seem to do this to a differing degree and wondered if anyone had encountered this and knew of a work around that didn't involve going in and manually correcting the fringe?
Originally posted 26 months ago.
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SixFootTwo edited this topic 26 months ago.
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i too have had these issues as (Magical Trevor).... i mean SixFootTwo mentions....i thought it was just me and my lac of knowledge with the apps.
Posted 26 months ago.
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Not sure this is fringing. Probably artifacts, most likely caused by some kind of movement. Must have no wind, use tripod, mirror lock-up and cable release.
The "grows/shrink" phenomena is normal. Alignment should take care of that.
Posted 26 months ago.
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Yep was indoor, tripod weighted, mirror locked and on remote.
EDIT I would have thought alignment would have been more capable of movement than resizing the image as you're dealing with the same amount of pixels in a different position as opposed to a larger number of pixels?
Going to give cs4 a run at it too!
Originally posted 26 months ago.
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SixFootTwo edited this topic 26 months ago.
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Stacking progs do resize the individual frames appropriately however you can get a problem with high contrast eges where the OOF edge is actually larger than the in focus edge but may be still considered detail by the stacking prog thus giving a halo around a high contrast edges.
Zerene stacker is very good at minimising these but they do still occur and need manual editing to remove them.
Brian v.
Posted 26 months ago.
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that makes sense given the subject had a hard white edge on a darker background and was quite a deep image so the oof edge was pretty soft. So in effect there's a fairly thin line between a hard edge and what the programme considers oof background hence the halo and maybe part of what makes the programme work as it has to differentiate?
Thanks fella much appreciated and makes total sense.
Originally posted 26 months ago.
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SixFootTwo edited this topic 26 months ago.
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Do you have any Photoshop advice on how to eliminate those high-contrast-edge halos? Using Helicon, I found this to be quite a problem.
Posted 25 months ago.
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Thanks Brian, for such a nice tutorial.
Now, as of today,please suggest a free focus stacker programme with its link. The link at the beginning of this page looks outdated.
Posted 25 months ago.
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breic,
I recommend using the photoshop method to align and crop your shots, then exporting them to a directory where you run it through Helicon.
After it has gone through the focus stacking, I believe Helicon alows you to manually 'paint' and edit the masks.
If it doesn't, don't sweat it. Open up the 'final' exported image, and using masks in photoshop, 'paint' the bokeh from teh background of near-focus shots onto the area where you see the halos.
I hope this helps
Posted 25 months ago.
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Dr p K Roy
Link for latest combinezp package
www.hadleyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CZP/Installation.htm
Brian V.
Posted 25 months ago.
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Great tutorial ... this is my result, from 5 photos
Posted 25 months ago.
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Excellent tutorial...was sent here by Fort Photo, btw. Can't wait to try it out!
Posted 21 months ago.
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Only this morning I read about focus stacking, on Brian's gallery on the Camel site. I think it is as interesting as the panorama stitching technique, at the other side of the spectrum! So far I have experimented with stitching panoramas. I have shot macros the traditional way. Brian has set my mind on a new road. Sincere thanks Brian.
Posted 19 months ago.
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Thank you so much for all these info/tutorial. I appreciate your time and effort.
Posted 19 months ago.
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Thanks for the comments :)
bcaravitis - I somwtimes do focus stacked panormas as well. Do the focus stacks first and then stitch them together :)
Brian v.
Posted 19 months ago.
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I have used this technique with great results for still photos. People complain and say it's time consuming. It is just a simple algorhythm that takes about 5 minutes more than the rest of your post-processing work.
Great post.
Posted 15 months ago.
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Just wanted to thank Brian for this tutorial. I have returned to macro photography after a break of far too many years, and am having a whale of a time with it. Using CombineZP is something new though, and this tutorial has proved invaluable. First successful result below:
Posted 12 months ago.
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If you want to know the answer to the universe or maybe just the maths behind Depth of Field. Take a look here-
nzphoto.tripod.com/stereo/3dtake/fdof.htm
I'm afraid gave up at D = 2fC(M+1)/M2) !! LOL
Posted 12 months ago.
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During a focus stack
I assume one thing which must surely be fundamental but is rarely mentioned is this. During the photographic stage when you might take up to fifty exposures and have to occasionally wait for flashes to recycle. The subject must have to remain "frozen" any waving antennae or twitching wing would be troublesome would it not ???
Originally posted 12 months ago.
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mpgoodey (No flashing AWARDS PLEASE!) edited this topic 12 months ago.
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Hello.
I've writted an another tutorial here to use CombineZP.
Posted 6 months ago.
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having the camera fixed with a tripod and just ajust de focus manually is a good idea? or is it better buying a focus rail and let the focus fixed and move the entire camera?
maybe moving the focus ring can result in different perpectives of the frame and in problems in the stacking process later.
Posted 5 months ago.
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> "having the camera fixed with a tripod and just ajust de focus manually is a good idea?"
I use this method.
Posted 5 months ago.
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Couple of points raised.
Yes it is a lot better if the subject is stationary whilst taking the shots. Waving antennae etc result in duplications in the stacked result. They can however be edited out afterwards.
It does not seem to make much difference to stack quality whether you use fixed camera/move focus ring or fixed focus /move camera or indeed fixedcamera/fixed focus/move subject.
Brian v.
Originally posted 5 months ago.
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Lord V edited this topic 5 months ago.
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Great tutorial & link, many thanks as i am about to attempt focus stacking
Posted 4 months ago.
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Great tutorial. Did you use a focusing rail or did you manually move tripod?
Posted 3 months ago.
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