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photoshop and burning

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shveckle  Pro User  says:

Ok I am a previous B & W film shooter. I took many classes in B & W shooting and printing. And had free usage of a lab at school by my former teacher because he liked me a lot. I also used rent a dark rooms in the city a lot back in the early 90's. I usually do street and got very proficient on printing B & W in the dark rooms and labs. Street photos are usually not perfect and their is a lot of dodging and burning that needs to be done. But I am having a very very hard time figuring out how to burn in photoshop compared to using the enlarger and my hands for burning film. It was so intuitive and nice to be able to use my hands for burning, being able to shake them as I am burning so the burning looked natural. On photoshop I can not figure out how to do this at all. I am no expert at all in photoshop and need help. Dodging is pretty easy in photoshop but the burning I have not been able to figure out. Does anyone have any suggestions or links of how to burn? Or any classes in the NYC area that are good?
Posted at 9:33AM, 17 May 2006 PDT (permalink)

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nmenghardt says:

just a few tips:
1. if you use the burning tool, turning it down to 3% will help, that way you can do fixes in small amounts.

2. depending on your version of photoshop, using the shadows and highlights tool might get you more desired results, and it's a less intrusive way to bring in information.

3. if you're trying to bring information into an area where there is none, don't bother, because photoshop will most likely just create a mottled mess.

hope these tips help.
Posted 71 months ago. (permalink)

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|| c.e. hayes || says:

There is a non destructive way to d/b in PS that I find a lot easier. All you have to do is hold down opt/alt key while you click the new layer icon in the bottom of the layers palette. This will bring up a new layer dialog box....change the blend mode to soft light and check the "fill with 50% grey" box. On this new grey layer use the paintbrush at ~10% opacity, painting white to dodge, and black to burn....you can then adjust the opacity of the layer down if it is too much, or just paint back on the layer with 50%grey brush to reduce the effect. It is a very pliable method and doesn't destroy the original. Hope that helps.
Posted 71 months ago. (permalink)

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ROCK STARLETTE says:

wow,where can i get a crash course in what exactly dodging and burning should do to a photo, and why people like using it?
Posted 71 months ago. (permalink)

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shveckle  Pro User  says:

www.creativemac.com/2001/01_jan/tutorials/photoshopdb/pho...
suggest by Danz in Tokyo
Originally posted 71 months ago. (permalink)
shveckle edited this topic 71 months ago.

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Highton-Ridley says:

@ r0ckstarlette D&B is all about "adjusting the tonal interrelationships" in an area by simulating an increase or decrease of exposure, just for that area.

If a sign in shadow is a little too dark to read, and you want it to be read, dodge just the sign, and you will lighten it in comparison to the areas you didn't dodge.

Has someone's face in a group shot got caught in bright sunlight (but the rest are normally exposed)? Burn the bright face to darken it.

Of course, with tools like Photoshop and others, you get a lot of control in applying those tools. Like being able just to burn the highlights, or just to dodge the shadows.

So in brief, that's it.

Of course, like anything, it can be used very creatively, if you know that using it in specific ways gives specific, predictable results.

For example, I use it a lot in shots where I'm concentrating on texture as part of the overall feel. Remember, I'm really just simulating what the eye is capable of if it were there (which mine is and was!).

We don't notice it, but as we look around, our eyes are continually adjusting exposure. Even in bright daylight, If we focus on a small patch of shadow, our irises open up a bit to let in more light - and we see the contrast between light and shade within the shadowy area - look away and the irises close down again in reaction to the brightness they're now looking into.

Still cameras can't do that, so we resort to d&b.

Have a look at this shot where I've used dodging and burning extensively in the grass - especially in the f/g. I concentrated on dodging just the highlights and when the mid-tones got too close to the highlights, I burned just the mid-tones back down again.

I did all this on a new overlay layer, filled with overlay-neutral grey. I dodged and burned on that layer and then adjusted the opacit to fine tune things. (and deleted the layer and tried again a few times!)

The key to it as mentioned by others, is a small soft brush, a low strength and long sweeping movements. Never burn the highlights, and never dodge the shadows (and remember that the purpose of having rules, in the words of author Terry Pratchett, is so that you think before you break them!).

Also, I'm not an expert (learning, learning, every day a schoolday!) but the above summarises what I've learned so far.

Everyone else, please free to correct me or comment. If you're interested in bw, use your flickr id to join my website via google friend connect - www.highton-ridley.co.uk

Hope that helps,
Mark
Originally posted 39 months ago. (permalink)
Highton-Ridley edited this topic 39 months ago.

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