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Well, there are a few things you can try. One good technique is to get the flash off the camera and position it to light the subject more dramatically.
Another technique that I personally use is to take the fire spinning picture using the camera's "Bulb" setting. After a second or so of spinning, I'll cap the lens (instead of ending the exposure) and wait for the person to be finished. Once they're out of the frame, take the lens cap back off and keep exposing, to get a well-exposed background.
This is the result of these two techniques together:
Posted 66 months ago.
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hey nice info, nice shot.
(could do with a horizon straighten) :)
Steve
Posted 66 months ago.
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Si es digital la camara, debes colocarla en sistema automatico, captura nocturna, y disparar, manteniendo la posición de esta siempre fija, captura de inmediato la foto, con continuidad del color del fuego.
Posted 66 months ago.
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Thanks guys. The pics look good overall, but the fact that the background is visible through the human figures is not good at all. The only way to fix that is, IMO, to greatly underexpose the background and reveal the figure with one monster flash.
Any other ideas?
P.S.: I can't read Spanish.
Posted 66 months ago.
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1/4sec- F5.0- with normal curtain Flash -2/3 with dome, Plus a bit of ambient stage lighting. Nikon D70s with SB800 Flash with Stofen Dome. Hope this gives you a better Idea.
Posted 66 months ago.
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Thanks! I wonder why you synced with first curtain, though. I think second would be better, wouldn't it?
Posted 66 months ago.
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"Thanks! I wonder why you synced with first curtain, though. I think second would be better, wouldn't it? "
(not to wake up a dead group or anything)
but front curtain takes a picture when you want it to, where as rear takes it after you press the button. This can be a big difference and this can be minor, it's really up to the situation and what you're doing.
I leave mine on front.
Posted 64 months ago.
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My personal preference is to avoid the use of flash -- but of course if there is not enough ambient light, (fill) flash sometimes is the only option.
[13s handhold !!]
Posted 62 months ago.
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Close the lens up, you'll get beautiful texture and color out of the flames. If they're white they're blown out and you've lost information.
Second curtain sync looks more natural in many situations.
The background should be black or as dark as possible, an off camera strobe or flash with a flag to keep light from spilling on the background is ideal.
Some images are better without flash, some are better with. Here are some examples:
Without:
With:
Posted 62 months ago.
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Cool Silohette!!!
Originally posted 61 months ago.
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NB Photo Flash edited this topic 61 months ago.
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Is this what your after...
Posted 56 months ago.
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I use a tripod - it seems obvious, but just in case - with a remote. This steadies your background if there is any light behind. Use a rear sync on the flash to "put" your subject in the picture. Open the aperature all the way and vary the shutter speed until you get what you want. More fire, less time. If there is enough flame and you want to see mostly the fire, then don't use any flash. It's harder using film - that's how I started photographing fire spinners, becasue you have no idea. You can use digital to make sure you are getting the right exposure and seeing what you want, then switch to film to reduce wasted developing costs. The black background often shows up better on film unless you have a very expensive digital camera.
If you are interested, look at my poi and fire set and maybe I can help if you sned a note.
Posted 56 months ago.
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i use 1'' and a high diafragma
Posted 51 months ago.
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For me it worked great with a off camera flash. So you can get both, the person and the fire :) here's few pictures
more here
Posted 49 months ago.
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If the performer has really worked on getting their tricks neat, and you're trying to show the shapes that the poi are drawing, I find a second is usually about right. Mine (so far) were done with only ambient light, between 10pm and 1am.
Posted 48 months ago.
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Here is some of mine :)
Posted 45 months ago.
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Hi Everybody, just found this group. Having been an experienced fire photographer, mostly with a Reno based group called controlled burn I can tell you all the thoughts are pertinent. The trick to getting a "black background is to closing your aperture as far down as possible (f/22) and having a strong enough flash to fill in the performance details. I uploaded a bundle.
Posted 40 months ago.
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One more thought. If you are shooting RAW in either lightroom or Camera Raw 5.0 you have an adjustment brush where you can literally paint down the ambient light. I get "that's cheating" all the time, but it's really no different than dodging and burning in a darkroom, only in photoshop you have better control
Posted 40 months ago.
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If you like how mine looks, this is what I did for this pic:
1. Tripod necessary since its a long exposure.
2. Wireless remote for shutter. It's good to have because you can time the start better, and you can keep the camera still.
3. White balance to flash or daylight, otherwise the person will look blue or grey.
4. f/22 ISO 100 with 18mm on my Canon 7D. Tiny aperture to make everything as much focus as possible (and what digitagraphy says about keeping it dark)
5. I used a location where I could get her to be higher than I was, which was a ledge, so that most of the background is not going to reflect anything
6. I had a ladder so I could position myself, holding the flash, above her.
7. I hand held my flash unit and waited for the right moment where her hands isnt goint to obstruct her face. Then I pushed the test button to freeze her.
Overall I was more wanting her emotions while spinning, rather than spinning itself. Oh, also, I found that the images taken when the poi balls where getting closer to burning out looked better, as it had more streaks and flames, rather than big thick streaks.
Maybe if I was shooting for more the patterns of the spin I would've done otherwise.
Please comment. thanks!
-dtez
www.flickr.com/photos/29481688@N06/4544340180/
Originally posted 38 months ago.
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chumpdtez edited this topic 38 months ago.
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I just posted a few on the pool here, I used a nikond700, with 70-300mm f4.5/5.6 I shot at 160-250 shutter speed to so I could keep details in face and skin, And my iso was between 800-1600 depending on the toy they were using and the amount of light it cast. It doesn't produce very long trails but i think you can still get some excellent results :)
www.flickr.com/photos/idulfingz/6928546063/in/photostream
Originally posted 15 months ago.
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idulfingz edited this topic 15 months ago.
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